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significant repeats (Read 3444499 times)

Duma

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#10375 Re: significant repeats
February 13, 2022, 08:12:48 am
What does falaisist mean jwi? And why average slab climber?

jwi

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#10376 Re: significant repeats
February 13, 2022, 08:20:02 pm
What does falaisist mean jwi?
Literally ”rockclimber”, but mostly used to separate outdoor specialists from the rest.


mrjonathanr

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#10377 Re: significant repeats
February 13, 2022, 08:24:46 pm
You could say cragsman/woman, though it’s a bit old fashioned.

jwi

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#10378 Re: significant repeats
February 13, 2022, 10:47:08 pm
Big repeats in Font today. La Revolutionnaire 3rd(?) ascent

https://www.instagram.com/p/CZ40nbqtHfS/?utm_medium=copy_link

And, Soudain Seul also had its 3rd ascent by Camille Coudert.

Interview with Coudert on fanatic climbing:

https://fanatic-climbing.com/camille-coudert-empoche-la-3eme-ascension-de-soudain-seul-camille-coudert-claims-the-third-ascent-of-soudain-seul-interview/

Apparently Coudert did the stand start 5-6 times per session for several session before doing the low start.

Quote
– What do you think about the usage of knee pads on this boulder? Is it a lot harder without?
I find that there is not a lot to mull over, that is like asking what you think about using heel hooks on this boulder problem. Without knee pads the boulder is more or less impossible.

remus

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#10379 Re: significant repeats
February 13, 2022, 10:56:49 pm

Interview with Coudert on fanatic climbing:

https://fanatic-climbing.com/camille-coudert-empoche-la-3eme-ascension-de-soudain-seul-camille-coudert-claims-the-third-ascent-of-soudain-seul-interview/

Apparently Coudert did the stand start 5-6 times per session for several session before doing the low start.

43 laps on The Big Island by the time he did Soudain :jaw: Talk about having it dialed.

SA Chris

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#10380 Re: significant repeats
February 14, 2022, 08:26:04 am
You could say cragsman/woman, though it’s a bit old fashioned.

cragrat...

Bradders

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#10381 Re: significant repeats
February 14, 2022, 09:28:06 am

Interview with Coudert on fanatic climbing:

https://fanatic-climbing.com/camille-coudert-empoche-la-3eme-ascension-de-soudain-seul-camille-coudert-claims-the-third-ascent-of-soudain-seul-interview/

Apparently Coudert did the stand start 5-6 times per session for several session before doing the low start.

43 laps on The Big Island by the time he did Soudain :jaw: Talk about having it dialed.

I'm not sure that's all too unusual. Certainly when I've been working on a sit start to something, particularly longer problems, I'll do the stand / from a few moves in a lot. Doesn't really change with higher difficulty, the process is the same.

If anything it would be more impressive to do the sit quickly without having done the stand that much.

Great interview that anyway.

remus

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#10382 Re: significant repeats
February 14, 2022, 09:34:28 am
For sure, makes sense in the context but still impressive to me when you consider the standalone difficulty of The Big Island.

finbarrr

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#10383 Re: significant repeats
February 14, 2022, 09:47:28 am
Big repeats in Font today. La Revolutionnaire 3rd(?) ascent

https://www.instagram.com/p/CZ40nbqtHfS/?utm_medium=copy_link

And, Soudain Seul also had its 3rd ascent by Camille Coudert.

Interview with Coudert on fanatic climbing:

https://fanatic-climbing.com/camille-coudert-empoche-la-3eme-ascension-de-soudain-seul-camille-coudert-claims-the-third-ascent-of-soudain-seul-interview/

Apparently Coudert did the stand start 5-6 times per session for several session before doing the low start.

Quote
– What do you think about the usage of knee pads on this boulder? Is it a lot harder without?
I find that there is not a lot to mull over, that is like asking what you think about using heel hooks on this boulder problem. Without knee pads the boulder is more or less impossible.

Who was talking about kneepads? All I want to know is has it been done without a book yet!

36chambers

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#10384 Re: significant repeats
February 14, 2022, 01:36:27 pm

Interview with Coudert on fanatic climbing:

https://fanatic-climbing.com/camille-coudert-empoche-la-3eme-ascension-de-soudain-seul-camille-coudert-claims-the-third-ascent-of-soudain-seul-interview/

Apparently Coudert did the stand start 5-6 times per session for several session before doing the low start.

43 laps on The Big Island by the time he did Soudain :jaw: Talk about having it dialed.

"Hard to know the number of sessions I put in the boulder I would say twice a week on average for almost 8 months in all. Which must be between 70 and 100 sessions"

Jeez.

Bradders

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#10385 Re: significant repeats
February 15, 2022, 05:02:00 pm
Posting this here for a few reasons:
1. It's a lovely little video
2. First repeat since hold breakage so great to see that it still goes, as in my opinion it's up there with the absolute best most inspiring lines on grit
3. It sounds like Will is suggesting the stand is now 8B+, which would mean the sit will potentially be the first 8C on grit when it gets done!


Kingy

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#10386 Re: significant repeats
February 15, 2022, 09:30:58 pm
Doesn't he say he thinks its more than 8B+? If so why 8B in the title of the vid? Its not the same as it was due to the break...

Bradders

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#10387 Re: significant repeats
February 15, 2022, 09:56:50 pm
Doesn't he say he thinks its more than 8B+? If so why 8B in the title of the vid? Its not the same as it was due to the break...

He says "more on the 8B+ side". Probably just says 8B in the title as that's what it was before.

Kingy

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#10388 Re: significant repeats
February 15, 2022, 09:59:52 pm
Doesn't he say he thinks its more than 8B+? If so why 8B in the title of the vid? Its not the same as it was due to the break...

He says "more on the 8B+ side". Probably just says 8B in the title as that's what it was before.

6:25 in the vid  :-\

Bradders

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#10389 Re: significant repeats
February 15, 2022, 10:25:22 pm
Doesn't he say he thinks its more than 8B+? If so why 8B in the title of the vid? Its not the same as it was due to the break...

He says "more on the 8B+ side". Probably just says 8B in the title as that's what it was before.

6:25 in the vid  :-\

Yeah exactly, that's when he says "I definitely think it's more on the 8B+ side"  ;)

Fultonius

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#10390 Re: significant repeats
February 15, 2022, 10:33:33 pm
One man's opinion a consensus does not make.

Was there not a thread about this recently?

teestub

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#10391 Re: significant repeats
February 15, 2022, 10:38:08 pm
One man's opinion a consensus does not make.


As he’s the only one to repeat it since it broke, I guess it’s the only data point we have some far! And Mr Bosi is not exactly a stranger to pulling on small holds.

Fultonius

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#10392 Re: significant repeats
February 15, 2022, 10:40:47 pm
Don't want to second guess the guy, but maybe he's hinting it might be hard, but happy to take the lower grade until there are more repeats? Seems sensible and saves another downgrade?

mrjonathanr

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#10393 Re: significant repeats
February 15, 2022, 11:04:55 pm
One man's opinion a consensus does not make.

Was there not a thread about this recently?

Quote from: HD Thoreau New England Bouldering 1846
any man more right than his neighbors constitutes a majority of one already,
.

Just sayin'.

JJP

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#10394 Re: significant repeats
February 15, 2022, 11:14:35 pm
Ye really enjoyed the video and again he comes across really well - seems to give a lot of thought to grade discussion etc

36chambers

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#10395 Re: significant repeats
February 16, 2022, 10:25:44 am
And, Soudain Seul also had its 3rd ascent by Camille Coudert.

For the uncut ascent:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CaCJgPBIUR0/

jwi

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#10396 Re: significant repeats
February 16, 2022, 10:36:29 am
And, Soudain Seul also had its 3rd ascent by Camille Coudert.

For the uncut ascent:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CaCJgPBIUR0/

Interestingly Camille says that he has very little experience, but thinks it is 9A unless everything else that he has tried or done in the 8C/C+ range is off. In fact, even if it is "only" 9A some of the problems he compare with in the 8C/C+ range must be overgraded never the less.

36chambers

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#10397 Re: significant repeats
February 16, 2022, 10:53:33 am
I wonder if Nico was thinking about anyone in particular when he said...

Quote from: Nico Pelorson
I think there are many climbers in the world who could climb the boulder with enough investment and that would not be the case with a real 9a boulder.

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#10398 Re: significant repeats
February 16, 2022, 11:08:08 am
9A without the kneepad

Bonjoy

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#10399 Re: significant repeats
February 16, 2022, 11:59:31 am
Posting this here for a few reasons:
1. It's a lovely little video
2. First repeat since hold breakage so great to see that it still goes, as in my opinion it's up there with the absolute best most inspiring lines on grit
3. It sounds like Will is suggesting the stand is now 8B+, which would mean the sit will potentially be the first 8C on grit when it gets done!


Nice!
Good old Anasazi Velcro heels. Wonder how hard/doable it would be without.
« Last Edit: February 16, 2022, 03:39:17 pm by Bonjoy, Reason: spelling »

 

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