[Paul B]

Its completely different, the school usually had massive pulls with relatively good feet, the works board has smaller moves BECAUSE the footholds are so shit. I think the SB would have the edge in developing raw power and locks but not a lot else (unless of course you actually use the other few boards), whereas the works board works your fingers pretty hard, contact strength, tension etc. Dimensions its A little shorter and not as wide (the board as well).

[Aussiegav]

on a different angle of what Paul B states;
the works board works your fingers pretty hard, contact strength, tension etc making smaller moves on poorer footers. yes this is true. but does this make the problems a series of desperate dead points and snatches. assuming the footers and holds are so small and poor??? (no i haven't climbed on it, just based upon peoples discriptions)

to say that the 50 degree board would have the edge in developing raw power and locks but not a lot else is not entirely accurate.

In respect (defence) of the school (50 degree board) as you rightly say you can do bigger moves, but with that comes greater inertia/outward momentum, which requires greater amounts of body tension to counteract a more dynamic movement. secondly large dynamic moves on smaller holds (first edge) also require massive amounts of contact strength and finger strength because of these loads. ie catching holds on the fly (upward / downward). perky pinky is an extreme example. that problem along with the vast majority of the others requires a stupid amount of core strength, finger strength and contact strength, and those foot holds are reasonable.



on another point, it is difficult to compare the two boards one on one. both come from to different areas. it is like comparing Maradona & Pele. both come from two totally different areas.
the school is nigh on 20 years of age and only now with the motherboard a 21st century sports science driven version of it. we can really appreciate the brillance of what the school room is and what it has done for world climbing but more so, british climbing.

whether or not the motherboard can produce the historical test pieces and leave a legacy on british climbing, we shall have to wait and see.

[account_inactive]

Personally i don't think so, and on the rare trips i make to the works i seldom see anyone on the board.  That maybe because most people there on wet sunday afternoons are too weak to use it but i also think that it maybe because "the motherboard" isn't very good.

I don't go to the works much and when I do I like to climb problems set for me as I'm lazy and that's what I pay my money for. I've always said that if I was a member i'd use the board more, but I can't justify the entry price otherwise. Over the last week I've been 4 times and used the board twice as I'm running out of problems to try (look at me!). I'm not sure what you mean by tweaky holds as I didn't find any on the MB. Maybe your fingers are weak and they hurt as you are slapping too much?

[a dense loner]

the motherboard is there, that is reason enough to climb there

if you don't like it don't use it

i agree with oldfella, but don't think we'll get a legacy from the MB simply because there are a lot more people training on boards than in 92. ie a lot of people on a lot of boards. again that is like comparing maradona and pele

strangely i agree with sloper as well, tho i'm the first to admit i've had a bad day

[Houdini]

Yeah, regrettably there's a positive correlation between ability and parsimony.

[richdraws]

A short while ago I was puzzling over whether I was strong enough to start using the board yet. Whilst eyeing it up Jasper Sharpe kindly pointed out an easy problem on it for me, which solved my puzzle.  I was too weak.
I am training to get strong enough to get on the motherboard, and then I can log those problems on 8a.nu.  

[Jaspersharpe]

Aha. You are who I thought you might be. Nice to meet you! 

[richdraws]

likewises x

[Paul B]

on a different angle of what Paul B states;
the works board works your fingers pretty hard, contact strength, tension etc making smaller moves on poorer footers. yes this is true. but does this make the problems a series of desperate dead points and snatches. assuming the footers and holds are so small and poor??? (no i haven't climbed on it, just based upon peoples discriptions)

This all comes down to base level, if you've got a mediocre one all of the small moves are going to feel like desperate deadpoints. If not you might struggle less. This is what people have been saying, if you're struggling to get up it you might be better elsewhere for a while. (This doesn't include Tim)

to say that the 50 degree board would have the edge in developing raw power and locks but not a lot else is not entirely accurate...

They're very different and I over simplified, thinking back to problems like snot, stuey etc its quite evident that you need a core to be able to stop the wild swinging around. However, the MB works it in a different way. Less dynamic but always fighting to keep your feet in contact with the board becuase once they're off, you're off. I think thats why its a little more applicable?

For me the MB struggles for powerful moves and deep locks because theres nothing good enough to get locked down below your chest or to press out really far, your foot WILL pop.

Fingers; at the school you're always hitting something on the move but generally the holds aren't too bad. On the MB I find a lot more load going through my upper body and fingers compared to my legs, again its working you in a different way.

whether or not the motherboard can produce the historical test pieces and leave a legacy on british climbing, we shall have to wait and see.

I doubt it can. Sorry Dan.

I miss the school

[Jim]

at least I could do chalk and blow at the school, never went back to redpoint basic jez. oh well

[Somebody's Fool]

In terms of cultural impact and world renown, I doubt anything will live up to the School's legacy.

As a Brit who spent a little while travelling in the States this spring, I was genuinely astonished by the Americans' interest in the place. And when I said I'd climbed there myself, the sense of awe was palpable as their gleeful unworldly eyes widened. Generally the effect lasted until I pulled on, whereby the eyes once again narrowed and there followed a 'Hey, I thought you had to be strong to climb there?'

As to why this is so, obviously Ben and Jerry's videos can't have harmed the place's reputation. But I firmly believe a new generation of Americans, Californians especially, are being wowed by a combination of Irish Si's phenomenal base level (climbs once a week and regularly squashes V12), and the fact he never shuts up about the good old days in Blighty when he was a member of the School.

[Houdini]

cultural impact

Absolutely.  Why it was only yesterday I overheard Ghandi wax lyrical about Stuey 5 Bellies ... 

[Johnny Brown]

Cultural impact? Jesus, spare me the mytholigising. Nothing like something a death to spur  mourners to bullshit.

Would Dobbin have done the Joker if the school was still open? Or Paul B have been to Damascus? I doubt it.

[Paul B]

Would Dobbin have done the Joker if the school was still open? Or Paul B have been to Damascus? I doubt it.

Would dobbin have been able to do the joker so quickly without his time in there? I doubt it too. You'll need a new drum soon.

[dobbin]

Would I have done the Joker if the school was open? of course not! But what else would I have done??? we will never know.

[tim palmer]

It's the former. I basically only climb on the motherboard now and I'm not the only one.

Seriously, what's the problem? The Works had one thing missing, a proper training board. Now, with very little loss of space, they have one and can finally keep all the people happy most of the time. Except you it seems.

 

I don't have a problem at all, as i said each to there own and there is alot of room in the works for everyone to have what they want, so if people want this board far enough, i really enjoy going to the works and so the addition of something new even if i don't use it doesn't bother me in the slightest.  At the worst it has no impact on me at the best it is something to try and campus on at the end of a session for ten minutes.  

I didn't mean to cast a slight against dan or ned by saying i don't like the board, because i have alot of respect for how good they are but i don't think the thing that sets them apart is the ability to pull on bits of wood.  

I think having a few harder problems set on the comp wall would be just as good as the board but that is probably because i am lazy.

I know that moon, moffat, smith et al all got strong training on wood but they did so because that was the best and cheapest way to build a board did they not or am i completely wrong (which i probably am)?  

[ I'm not sure what you mean by tweaky holds as I didn't find any on the MB. Maybe your fingers are weak and they hurt as you are slapping too much?

ha ha true, i am a punter.  

All i was trying to establish by posting a comment was does anyone not think boards like this are the way forward?  
What are the alternatives?  

[slackline]

I know that moon, moffat, smith et al all got strong training on wood but they did so because that was the best and cheapest way to build a board did they not or am i completely wrong (which i probably am)?  

So if its the best, surely its a natural, logical conclusion to have a dedicated training board as such, akin to the motherboard maybe? 

[matthew]

I know that moon, moffat, smith et al all got strong training on wood but they did so because that was the best and cheapest way to build a board did they not or am i completely wrong (which i probably am)?  

So if its the best, surely its a natural, logical conclusion to have a dedicated training board as such, akin to the motherboard maybe? 

Shirley he means it was best at the time... 15years ago when the school room board opened. Has there been no progression in training board development since then?

[Jaspersharpe]

OH MY FUCKING GOD!!!!!

        

[slackline]

Don't call me Shirley

[Steve R]

Most likely a stupid question, but, is it impossible for a school stlye board and a motherboard style board to coexist upon the same surface, thus getting the best of both worlds?

Or is it the case that the motherboard handholds are all better to compensate for the bad feet which would render all the school stlye problems too easy?
 
Forgive my ignorance here having never trained on the motherboard or any cellar style board to be honest. 

[Jaspersharpe]

Do you people not have eyes? Go back to page 13.

[lagerstarfish]

OH MY FUCKING GOD!!!!!

        

Careful there Jasper. You don't want to get a head injury before you head off to Font

[Steve R]

ah yes I managed to read, digest and forget in the space of a days... cheers jasper.
so in answer to my question, there is no reason you can't have both, it would just mean more complex rules.

[Jaspersharpe]

Yeah and as it's difficult enough to implement the rules as they are it aint worth it. To do bigger moves on the MB you just need to get stronger anyway. I agree with Paul that big rockover type moves aren't going to work well on those foot jibs but apart from that you just need to pull harder.