[Percy B]

I enjoyed watching 5 people doing syncronised pull-ups all side by side on the same bar this evening. It looked like fun, but I'm sure it wasn't really.

[lagerstarfish]

Did they all look like this?



I can see why it would be fun to watch

[butterworthtom]

Hello  , my names Tom, second time poster, long time viewer.
I have a suggestion. I am pretty poor at resting between problems/ circuits/ campussing. I think you should put up some big fat tvs showing climbing films in order to keep me psyched but well rested, perhaps near the campus boards and the circuit board near the desk? I know this would be expensive but it would be good for helping resting and such. What do you reckon?

[a dense loner]

please don't get tv's. if people are bored while they rest perhaps they can spend 3 minutes looking at the people who think they're going to become stronger by playing with a scaffold bar

[Fiend]

big fat tvs

Worst idea I've ever heard for the works, it almost deserves a puntering 

Take a watch, time yourself, sit back and listen to the music, go talk to people, wander around a bit....

[GraemeA]

Already done that one, we had a TV over by the campus board to show vids. Lasted less than a month before the chalk got to it

[butterworthtom]

Fair enough, it was only a suggestion. I don't understand why it is the worst idea you have heard for the Works though?

I figured chalk dust might be a problem. Never mind.

[Jaspersharpe]

If I want to be amused by some cunt climbing while I'm resting I just watch Cupboard.

[soapy]

If I want to be amused by some cunt climbing while I'm resting I just watch jasper.

fixed 

[Jaspersharpe]

If I want to be impressed by some hero crushing while I'm resting I just watch jasper.



fixed 

Why thank you. But really, there's no need. 

[Jaspersharpe]

Is it right that some idiot nicked the motherboard problem book and are there any plans to replace it? There must be loads of good problems on there now and as it seems to be finished (as in holds wont be moved any more) it'd be good to have them all written down somewhere. By the way my fingers are sore today and I hold Dense entirely responsible for suggesting pulling on smaller holds.

[a dense loner]

i don't expect you to beat me michael, i just want you to keep up

[Monolith]

Gagging to try this motherboard at some point.

[jonjon]

If you honestly cant find something to look at at the works while resting between problems then you need to get your hormone levels checked.

[Falling Down]

you need to get your hormone levels checked.

I thought the request for a big fat TV was a giveaway there...

[tim palmer]

I am the only one not seeing what is so great about the 45 degree board with bits of wood screwed on it?

I understand why this is a good idea if you wanted a board on your living room and couldn't afford or didn't have access to proper holds but in argueably the best bouldering wall in the country why have this board which is good for nothing but ruining tendons?  Especially as there is already a much bigger board (at a more realistic angle) with a collection of finger wrecking holds on which you can at least move the holds around.  I suppose there is the space at The Works so at least a good bit of wall hasn't been used for this thingy. 

Have the past 15 years of wall developement been a waste of time?  Have all the improvements (better holds, more interesting angles, bigger walls) been simply to draw more people into climbing and keep the casual customer amused for a few hours every week?  is the real way to get strong to pull on A2 wrecking bits of wood?

Personally i don't think so, and on the rare trips i make to the works i seldom see anyone on the board.  That maybe because most people there on wet sunday afternoons are too weak to use it but i also think that it maybe because "the motherboard" isn't very good.

[Jim]

the motherboard looks to be a proper training board which you can get strong on.
The rest of the works you can have a laugh with your mates and put your back out whilst holding crazy geometry's smearing on frictionless wooden volumes.
no-one ever got strong by smearing on volumes

[Jaspersharpe]

I am the only one not seeing what is so great about the 45 degree board with bits of wood screwed on it?

It isn't just that but, yes, you are. Have you climbed on it?

I understand why this is a good idea if you wanted a board on your living room and couldn't afford or didn't have access to proper holds but in argueably the best bouldering wall in the country why have this board which is good for nothing but ruining tendons?

Because it isn't just good for ruining tendons. It's good for making significant gains in strength and body tension. Oh and because people asked for it.

Especially as there is already a much bigger board (at a more realistic angle) with a collection of finger wrecking holds on which you can at least move the holds around.  I suppose there is the space at The Works so at least a good bit of wall hasn't been used for this thingy. 

I take it you mean the 30 degree board which is a totally different type of training facility. The whole point was that people wanted a steeper board with fixed holds so that they can gauge improvement over time and create classic problems which will last. Yes, nothing has been lost by building this board as you say so what's your problem?

Have the past 15 years of wall developement been a waste of time? 

Wall development or board development? Two different things entirely but the answer to both questions is no. The Works is a stunningly successful example of how bouldering walls have developed. The fact that they can cater for everyone from small children to 8B beasts is one thing. The fact that they also realise that although punters are their bread and butter, they can also keep the slightly better climbers happy by providing proper training facilities shows forward thinking and flexibility. Two of the reasons that they are doing so well.

Board development is another thing and has been discussed at length on this thread. Suffice to say, I've seen a lot of training boards from the oldest and shittest (not always the same thing although Pollitt's garage ticked both those boxes) to some of the best designed and best constructed. For me, the motherboard is up there with the best I have ever climbed on and everyone I have spoken to feels the same.

Have all the improvements (better holds, more interesting angles, bigger walls) been simply to draw more people into climbing and keep the casual customer amused for a few hours every week? 

Yes. This is where the money is.

is the real way to get strong to pull on A2 wrecking bits of wood?

Have you actually pulled on any of the holds on the motherboard? Most aren't tweaky at all. But yes, the way to get strong is partly by pulling on small holds on a steep board. I thought this had been common knowledge since about 1992? As Jim said, nobody ever got strong by smearing on volumes but if that is your cup of tea then there are quite a few problems like that already at The Works. If you think that you are better off trying to get strong on these problems then go for it. Or if perhaps you just enjoy that type of problem more then great, nobody's making you climb on the board!

Personally i don't think so, and on the rare trips i make to the works i seldom see anyone on the board.  That maybe because most people there on wet sunday afternoons are too weak to use it but i also think that it maybe because "the motherboard" isn't very good.

It's the former. I basically only climb on the motherboard now and I'm not the only one.

Seriously, what's the problem? The Works had one thing missing, a proper training board. Now, with very little loss of space, they have one and can finally keep all the people happy most of the time. Except you it seems.

 

Nice one Sam on the problem book idea by the way. 

[dobbin]

I have to say I think its very good (the motherboard I mean). At the very core, board climbing at its hardest isnt going to be even possible for everyone - if its not possible and you're not getting anywhere then you'll do better by building up to it elsewhere, and so you dont always see people on it.

Without exception, all the good climbers I have ever met have advocated training on steep boards with bad footholds. The motherboard implements the core principles nearly perfectly!

If its ruining your tendons then see the first paragraph above - go and do something else until your base level is within useful reach of the motherboard.

[carlisle slapper]

Nice dummy spit there Tim, hardly objective is it? or a reflection of your session, or have you tweaked a finger on it and fancy venting?

A: if you were given this space what would you do with it rather than put a 12ft by 8ft 45 degree board up?
It is elitist, i.e. caters for 5% of works users, it also takes up around 5% of the space, i'd say that was a fair representation given the size of the facility?

B: where's the beef? you've got enough tape on your hands at the minute to make tutankhamoon look under dressed so it's not suprising that slippy bits of wood don't agree with you. campussing up juggy crimps on it is hardly what it is designed for is it?

C: is this not just a case of you having a paddy and wanting to change the climbing so it agrees with you rather than change your style of climbing so it agrees with the board?

D: compare aspects which the board trains to the following classic problems (pick different ones if you like):
Pools of Bethesda:
Monk life:
special cases:
etc etc. now compare the 7c on volumes out the roof in the comp wall (hardest problem you could currently train on) to them? which relates more?

If your going to be critical at least be objective and state a reason for why it is so shit. The board is only tweaky if your under prepared. At the moment i'm the most injured i've ever been but i am getting alot of use out the board as i can tailor sessions round my injuries. where as if i were to climb on problems where a sequence was dictated i'd be screwed as i might have to crimp.

 i've trained alot on (basically) that board for the past 2 years. whilst i realise i'm shit and have done fuck all in this period due to this completely useless board holding me back, i am interested to know more insightful ways of training, and getting more out of sessions.

[Paul B]

Have the past 15 years of wall developement been a waste of time? 

I think this was answered earlier on in the thread. It IS a progression. SHAFT had been the way on boards for years, reducing this to a select few really dire footholds is definitely different. Look at the School boards where in a few moves you could cover the entire board (3 to 4 moves), you're unlikely to do this on the motherboard because you have to work so much harder to stay attached. Board in 3 was certainly giving me a hard time last time I tried.
I think the board is pretty damn good given the space allocated to fit in in,  I'd be quick to point out if I thought otherwise. I don't think its the final word in training but I'm fairly confident it creates the type of climbing that will translate well to outdoors (over all other boards I've trained on and certainly triangular weirdness).

[Norton Sharley]

I think the new board is great.  It means that loads of strong people and far more people who think they are strong make space in the rest of the wall for the rest of us and to help with Jonjon's suggestion of what to do between problems.

[Sloper]

A few quick points,

1. I'm too weak for the board and consequently haven't played on it.

2. I think that in general terms walls profit from punters and go broke on wads.

3. The people that wanted the baord clearly think it's a good thing.

4. It hasn't been installed at the expense of the rest of the facility.

So in conclusion, good work boys.

Moving away from the boards what are people's views on the grades at the works?  Personally I'd prefer it if they moved away from font grades and gave things a comparative grade for the whole circuit with a + / - to allow for variations, so the yellows would be a 6 and the greens 1. 

[KH]

Out of interest, how does this compare to the School room board?

[Norton Sharley]

A few quick points,

1. I'm too weak for the board and consequently haven't played on it.

2. I think that in general terms walls profit from punters and go broke on wads.

3. The people that wanted the baord clearly think it's a good thing.

4. It hasn't been installed at the expense of the rest of the facility.

So in conclusion, good work boys.

Moving away from the boards what are people's views on the grades at the works?  Personally I'd prefer it if they moved away from font grades and gave things a comparative grade for the whole circuit with a + / - to allow for variations, so the yellows would be a 6 and the greens 1. 

Perhaps they could use E grades for stuff that goes to the top too?