[dave]

If you can't spell it, we're not getting them in

fair dos. I can however spell "thonged-up honeys waving palm leaves shouting 'go dave, go dave, get busy' and brushing holds for me".

[GraemeA]

Sorry, poor capitalisation rules out your request.

[GraemeA]

If you can't spell it, we're not getting them in

fair dos. I can however spell "thonged-up honeys waving palm leaves shouting 'go dave, go dave, get busy' and brushing holds for me".

Percy has just asked Leah whether she will do the thonged-up thing. He now has a black eye

[lagerstarfish]

If you can't spell it, we're not getting them in

fair dos. I can however spell "thonged-up homos waving palm leaves shouting 'go dave, go dave, get busy' and brushing holds for me".

wearing leather caps and big moustaches - cool

[(woz)]

Went down to the works today for the first time in a year or so, and was v. impressed with the changes. Board/campus board are both a massive improvement. Nice one guys.

[Jaspersharpe]

I fucking love the board. In three sessions I've noticed gains already. The easiest problems are still desperate for me but yesterday they felt at least a grade less desperate than last week. The rules appear to be working and keeping the punters at bay. The shitty foothold rule and the fact that there are no easy ways up to work the top moves on things make getting a problem linked so hard. Ned was doing some hard stuff but the same applies whatever the grade on there as we discussed. You have to be so specific with your foot placements or you've fucked it. It's great.
 


Brush the holds people.

[nik at work]

Any chance of a picture of these fabbled foot holds? I'm intrigued as everyone is banging on about how ace they are.

[Paul B]

I think the recipe is simple:
Small block of wood (preferably slippy)
Round off anything remotely positive
Come back from a trip strong and decide they are too grippy
Get over zealous with the sanding
Realise that you now have a few holds that your foot WILL pop off!!!

[nik at work]

Cheers Paul. Just out of interest how small? I've got a set of Dylans Slap footholds (that are ace), are the wooden things a similar size, but without the positive edges? Or are they a bit bigger, but very poor and slopey?

Think I may head down to the workshop this evening and get busy with saw and sandpaper...

[Jaspersharpe]

About 40mm x 25mm x 5mm at a guess?

[chillax]

I'm getting visions of a selection of greased-up half spheres the size of postage stamps on a 45deg wall....

[dobbin]

Re el foot jibs, when they were on the beastmaker HQ board me and dylan measured them. And I think they were either 8 or 10mm. But heavily rounded. 10mm sounds a lot but isnt, not on that angle and when the edge has been taken off it.

[north_country_boy]

They are very similar to the old S7 / Pusher 'tech feet', great profile and excellent on a steep board, pitty some of teh old school holds aren't resurrected....

[nik at work]

Cheers Gent, I'm off to the lab...

[Percy B]

More importantly, the footholds are made of mahogany - very hard, very fine grain, and therefore very slippery. Only the best for the motherboard.

[GraemeA]

Sourced from sustainable forests of course. Honest. No really.

[Drew]

Sourced from sustainable forests of course. Honest. No really.

What? All of those footholds, are from a sustainable Forest? Why bother? Might as well have just stolen a twig from a small tree!

[rainbow]

Very impressed with the new core holds, nice designs and nice feel to them. The Motherboard is seriously hard but strangely addictive. I declare myself well and truly puntered! A thumbs up to the guys & girls up there. Irrespective of the grade the probs are high quality and always well thought out.

[a dense loner]

good job you took the time to measure them footjibs dobbin. either 8 or 10mm. what did you measure them with, a bamboo pole and guessed?
by the by i now love that people think this is the next best thing, and way better for your core than feet follow. no way is better than the other, just one suits people a lot more. i like footjibs a lot better since for my style (ahem) it mimics climbing outdoors a lot more and i don't have to struggle to get my giant legs onto a bunched hand hold, which is where my core is really quite pathetic.
the motherboard does look ace.

[dobbin]

Dylan measured them with his cock, and thats 8mm flaccid, 10mm at other times. Hence the confusion, he was in an undetermined state of arousal.

[Bonjoy]

You can't measure anything properly with a lazy lamb!

[Tim Broughtonshaw]

been trying to find a large enough picture of the motherboard to appreciate this discussion, anyone know of any links to one?

Cheers
Tim

[Plattsy]

[a dense loner]

climbed on the board last night. i'm thinking of how to fit the words fucking and awesome into a sentence. all that needs to be done with it is for dan and ned to take off every hold that hasn't got a mirror image

[Ru]

i'm thinking of how to fit the words fucking and awesome into a sentence.

Presumably because you've never done so before. High praise indeed. I'm well keen to have a go, but my weekends are currently taken up climbing things outside at the moment where the grades don't count cos there's no mirror image. I wonder if we could commission a sculptor to make a mirror image of the cave?