UKBouldering.com

The Works (Read 129489 times)

Percy B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1292
  • Karma: +95/-2
    • www.climbingworks.com
#225 Re: The Works
February 12, 2009, 10:48:12 pm
It was alright for me, but I crumbled to the body-tensionless masses and gave everyone the benefit of my aditional 18 inches. Nedwin van der Free-Willy has been in working his magic on the 45 degree board, so by now it should be covered in unfeasibly small wooden matchsticks for you all to get injured on.
Enjoy!

dave

  • Guest
#226 Re: The Works
February 12, 2009, 11:03:54 pm
have been on the 45 tonight, and even with what is presumably only about half the total holds, its a winner. if the rumour that theres gonnd be loads more wooden holds is true then all the better.

Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12344
  • Karma: +600/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
#227 Re: The Works
February 13, 2009, 11:15:48 am
Yowzer!

Gonna have a look in a bit. Unfortunately it may well just be a look as I'm full of cold.  :(

cowboyhat

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1496
  • Karma: +128/-5
#228 Re: The Works
February 16, 2009, 12:29:14 pm
I rarely go in the works, apologies if this has been mentioned before.

New 45 looks great, what an improvement, feedback works etc. And wow, a Beastmaker. What? This is well easy, I can hold all of them, seemingly forever. Because MY KNEES ARE ON THE FLOOR.

Pretty sure I'm only about the same height as Percy. A simple mistake to fix.

slackline

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 18863
  • Karma: +633/-26
    • Sheffield Boulder
#229 Re: The Works
February 16, 2009, 12:33:22 pm
I rarely go in the works, apologies if this has been mentioned before.

New 45 looks great, what an improvement, feedback works etc. And wow, a Beastmaker. What? This is well easy, I can hold all of them, seemingly forever. Because MY KNEES ARE ON THE FLOOR.

Pretty sure I'm only about the same height as Percy. A simple mistake to fix.

Cut your legs off at the knee?

Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12344
  • Karma: +600/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
#230 Re: The Works
February 16, 2009, 12:50:26 pm
The 45 looks quite good. I did a little bit on it but illness and dodgy feeling finger meant not much. One thing, do there really need to be some big almost volume-esque holds on there that you could get both hands on? More smaller wooden holds instead perhaps? As an elite (and elitist!) training facility I would have hoped to struggle to get up it using pretty much everything on there but instead this would have been very easy and even just using the wooden holds up the middle made for a very good if only 7B ish (?) problem. Slightly discouraging as it meant that there was a gang of 14 year olds attempting to slap their way up it using everything (this sounds elitist)...........

There won't be any jugs on this board - it is specifically aimed at top-end climbers only. Elitist? Too right.

I realise that it is still in the development phase and am not complaining as I reckon it's going to be excellent.  :)

cowboyhat

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1496
  • Karma: +128/-5
#231 Re: The Works
February 16, 2009, 12:54:46 pm
I rarely go in the works, apologies if this has been mentioned before.

New 45 looks great, what an improvement, feedback works etc. And wow, a Beastmaker. What? This is well easy, I can hold all of them, seemingly forever. Because MY KNEES ARE ON THE FLOOR.

Pretty sure I'm only about the same height as Percy. A simple mistake to fix.

Cut your legs off at the knee?

I take it the finger board is the right height for you then short---arse?

slackline

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 18863
  • Karma: +633/-26
    • Sheffield Boulder
#232 Re: The Works
February 16, 2009, 12:57:11 pm
I rarely go in the works, apologies if this has been mentioned before.

New 45 looks great, what an improvement, feedback works etc. And wow, a Beastmaker. What? This is well easy, I can hold all of them, seemingly forever. Because MY KNEES ARE ON THE FLOOR.

Pretty sure I'm only about the same height as Percy. A simple mistake to fix.

Cut your legs off at the knee?

I take it the finger board is the right height for you then short---arse?

 :lol: no idea haven't been on it yet

stom

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 137
  • Karma: +7/-0
    • Some Videos
#233 Re: The Works
February 16, 2009, 01:18:03 pm
Quote
Slightly discouraging as it meant that there was a gang of 14 year olds attempting to slap their way up it using everything (this sounds elitist)...........

I don't think your ever going to get away from this. From my hazy memory I think even the the school board could be slapped up by youthful exuberant 14 year olds if they'd been allowed to go there.

I spent a couple of hours on the board the other evening and in that short space of time we had a selection of 7a to 7c-ish problems worked out using mostly the wooden holds.  I think the Works have done a brilliant job in creating this board and it adds another good training opportunity to the already excellent wall.

I would however (as per Jasper's post) like to see more wooden holds on the board as it would allow training with thin/painful skin.

Percy, Sam and Graeme keep up the good work!

Percy B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1292
  • Karma: +95/-2
    • www.climbingworks.com
#234 Re: The Works
February 16, 2009, 06:54:05 pm
More wood? Done.

Smaller holds? Done.

More rungs on the campus board? Done and still being done (medium rungs are on order)

If you can't get stronger/more injured-er in there then you're not trying hard enough.

stom

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 137
  • Karma: +7/-0
    • Some Videos
#235 Re: The Works
February 16, 2009, 08:51:54 pm
Quote
More wood? Done.

Smaller holds? Done.

Fantastic that was quick work! :great:

Have you had any thoughts on starting a problem book so we can amass a library of decent problems we've made up? (i've noticed you've given numbers and letters to the corresponding rows and columns of holds so recording problems will be very easy :thumbsup: )

Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12344
  • Karma: +600/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
#236 Re: The Works
February 17, 2009, 09:04:35 am
Good stuff.

By the sound of things the problem book etc is all under control.......

http://beastmakerblog.blogspot.com/2009/02/amalcgamation.html

dobbin

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3708
  • Karma: +147/-9
  • Buoux 7a
#237 Re: The Works
February 17, 2009, 09:48:35 am
Quote
Slightly discouraging as it meant that there was a gang of 14 year olds attempting to slap their way up it using everything (this sounds elitist)...........

I don't think your ever going to get away from this. From my hazy memory I think even the the school board could be slapped up by youthful exuberant 14 year olds if they'd been allowed to go there.

I refute that Tom you westie. Chalk and Blow - the easiest of problems on the school board, was about font 6c, and would have stopped most of these slappy young guys (young ones ref), unless of course they be called Tyler. Anyway, reminiscence aside, I went on the MotherBoard with Nedwin and Back-Two-Dan last night and I thought it was brilliant. Its like a supersized, slightly easier version of their board - and I love it. The reason I so rate it is because of the poor mahogany foot jibs and the symettry. Its a shame that punters will miss this genius, but theres no way to police it or to enforce the rules, and this isnt the works' fault, its punters being punters.

Anyway, I am excited about this board, and I am almost hoping for rain so I can excuse myself and get on it!

Oh, and thankyou works people. Is good.

Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12344
  • Karma: +600/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
#238 Re: The Works
February 17, 2009, 09:59:19 am
Its a shame that punters will miss this genius, but theres no way to police it or to enforce the rules, and this isnt the works' fault, its punters being punters.

A big fuck off sign (as mentioned on the beastblog) will be a good start though.

I too am looking forward to climbing struggling like fuck on this board. The symmetry thing is a great idea. Out of interest, what sort of Font grade is a Beastmaker 1b?

Now I just need to work out what's going on with this dodgy finger........

dave

  • Guest
#239 Re: The Works
February 17, 2009, 10:02:50 am
Out of interest, what sort of Font grade is a Beastmaker 1b?

its not about the math, man.

Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12344
  • Karma: +600/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
#240 Re: The Works
February 17, 2009, 10:09:28 am
Just interested in whether the easiest problems will be too hard for me or not. I suppose I will find out soon enough!

Percy B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1292
  • Karma: +95/-2
    • www.climbingworks.com
#241 Re: The Works
February 17, 2009, 10:17:13 am
[I too am looking forward to climbing struggling like fuck on this board. The symmetry thing is a great idea. Out of interest, what sort of Font grade is a Beastmaker 1b?

1b is a bit harder than 1a (which is climbing to the top of the board using everything). 1a is not so easy, and seems to be the easiest way of keeping 'punters' off the board, although it won't stop many of the lower holds getting chalked up even if they can't pull on them.

Plattsy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1331
  • Karma: +58/-2
#242 Re: The Works
February 17, 2009, 10:21:24 am
As an elite punter I'll be making a complete nuisance of myself on this new board thing. Can't wait.

 :guilty:

Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12344
  • Karma: +600/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
#243 Re: The Works
February 17, 2009, 10:22:50 am

1b is a bit harder than 1a (which is climbing to the top of the board using everything). 1a is not so easy, and seems to be the easiest way of keeping 'punters' off the board, although it won't stop many of the lower holds getting chalked up even if they can't pull on them.


Makes sense.

Time to..........



 ;D

cowboyhat

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1496
  • Karma: +128/-5
#244 Re: The Works
February 17, 2009, 11:55:12 am

Out of interest, what sort of Font grade is a Beastmaker 1b?



I believe you're of normal stature Jasper; unless they raise the Beastmaker up a good few inches its useless anyway.

slackline

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 18863
  • Karma: +633/-26
    • Sheffield Boulder
#245 Re: The Works
February 17, 2009, 12:05:09 pm

Out of interest, what sort of Font grade is a Beastmaker 1b?



I believe you're of normal stature Jasper; unless they raise the Beastmaker up a good few inches its useless anyway.

I think the Beastmaker grades are referring to the problems on the woody as described in the blog article linked a few posts back.

cowboyhat

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1496
  • Karma: +128/-5
#246 Re: The Works
February 17, 2009, 12:52:51 pm
I was just thinking we needed a few new grading scales, I've been encouraging The Castle to experiment with their own grades for ages.

GraemeA

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1875
  • Karma: +80/-6
  • FTM
    • The Works, it's the Bollocks
#247 Re: The Works
February 17, 2009, 12:53:06 pm
I believe you're of normal stature Jasper; unless they raise the Beastmaker up a good few inches its useless anyway.

Its been moved, so now you can stop whinging and start training.

cowboyhat

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1496
  • Karma: +128/-5
#248 Re: The Works
February 17, 2009, 01:39:44 pm
Great, I'll fill up the car with diesel.

Seriously though, its really commendable that you guys are listening and to people's feedback.

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13414
  • Karma: +676/-67
  • Whut
#249 Re: The Works
February 17, 2009, 11:37:40 pm
Good job with both the new board and moving the campus section out.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal