[nik at work]

For the love of god Houdini please get bored of your avatar and change it.....

[Drew]

For the love of god Houdini please get bored of your avatar and change it.....

2nded

[Houdini]

What's not to like about a multi-coloured glowing, f.l.a.s.h.i.n.g skull?!   

[Houdini]

EDIT - skulls   


Carry on.

[Drew]

Somehow I knew it would come back and bite me on the bum!

[Will Hunt]

I like you Houd but those skulls are tearing my eyes apart.
For the love of God change it!

[Houdini]

Look, will you guys just get back on topic.   

[Paul B]

Maybe I'm misunderstanding you

You are. The 'big hold' and 'volume problems' are separate. I get completely spanked on one volume only problem (the £££ problem, zero ascents so far I believe?) and haven't yet done P14 which is mainly volumes (this WILL go).

There was no poor show on the 'big hold' (remainder of the) problems.

I didn't manage to string the green (hardest of the others) together from a sitter.

Clearer? I hope so as explaining further is ridiculous.

Volumes are a weakness of mine, granted, and if you can find me a triangular rock type then I'll jump to it and worship some kind of tetrahedral god. If not then I'll stick to ironing out more useful technical flaws. 

In the end I don't really see what any of this has to do with the price of fish/tea/coffee/bread etc. my first observation was nothing other than correct!

[Jaspersharpe]

Do you have a lanky mans sequence there then? as for me its currently sit start (on redundant leg to be able to reach!), left hand pinching block RH on poor sidepull, rockover to RH crimp, flick LH to u/cut. RH up for next hold, high foot and flag, get LH on hold right next to it. RH pinch LH top.

Not a lanky sequence but I was too bunched to do the move off the undercut going with RH so the sequence I worked out was. Start as you say but once I've flicked LH into u/cut I rock LF onto starting sidepull and make a hard pull to get the right of the two holds as a pinch with LH, step through RF to block, RH pinch, top. Only done it in two bits so far as the rockover move is quite hard for me but it's a really good problem like this. If the top pinch was a bit shitter then it would be even better and quite hard overall.

Went again yesterday and made a couple of observations. Middle orange problem is better without the intermediate as Paul says but as you can just miss it out it doesn't really need altering - good problem. RH pocket problem is really good. RH orange problem - this seems hard. Not sure if you're meant to go LH to two(ish) finger crimp RH to good hold at the start but this seems very tough (this is a good thing!) and the big move to the sidepull above is no pushover either. Nice. Apart from this I'm not sure if there is anything hard on there as I've done or got close to everything I've tried in a couple of sessions. Assume some harder stuff will be part of the "work in progress". Oh and in two sessions I haven't smashed my elbow or shin on anything. It's all good.

[dave]

a few more problems appeared on the training board yesterday. a red, red+white and a black.  only tried one but the others look OK, the red+white looks ubercrimpy but about reasonably comfy. (apparently the sidewall is out on the black).

theres a new easy circuit too.

and the intermediate on the orange problem that paul was banging on about is now gone. i'm not convinced this is an improvement myself, anyone who wanted to miss it out could have done anyway.

[Plattsy]

This may have been mentioned already. Was there an original idea that there would be guest setters on this board? Signature problems or something? Maybe some of the guys on here could set one or two problems themselves (with approval of course) and work each others problems.

[dave]

i think paulB set at the red problem thats still on there from the last lot (left had side of the board,i like this one), there may have been more.

[Jaspersharpe]

a few more problems appeared on the training board yesterday. a red, red+white and a black.  only tried one but the others look OK, the red+white looks ubercrimpy but about reasonably comfy. (apparently the sidewall is out on the black).

Cool. 

theres a new easy circuit too.

I'm assuming that the LH orange problem is one that has been "tweaked" since it was originally set? Paul described the finish as "trivial" whereas I would describe it as "crux" or "fucking desperate" in comparison to the start. Maybe I'm doing something wrong but I can't touch the last move and it seems way harder than the rest of the problem.

Agree about the intermediate on the central orange. Did it with and without it and it's a good problem either way.

Getting the hang of the RH orange with the little hold. This is an excellent problem but my only concern is that the little crimp is going to be unusable once it's been stood on/not cleaned a bit (which will probably be before I do it  ).

That red problem is Paul's and it is very good. Didn't travs have something to do with some of the new setting too? 

[dave]

I'm assuming that the LH orange problem is one that has been "tweaked" since it was originally set? Paul described the finish as "trivial" whereas I would describe it as "crux" or "fucking desperate" in comparison to the start. Maybe I'm doing something wrong but I can't touch the last move and it seems way harder than the rest of the problem.

yeah that had a couple of holds swapped over, now nails at the top. luckily i got the flash before it changed - can i still keep the tick?

[Plattsy]

Out of interest what sort of grade range are we talking for these new up problems?

[Jaspersharpe]

There's no topo yet and I'm shit at grading but I'd say they seem to be from about 6C to 7C+.

[Plattsy]

Could be there's at least one I can do then. 

[Jaspersharpe]

The green and pink spotty one is the easiest I've done and is good.

[Jaspersharpe]

a few more problems appeared on the training board yesterday. a red, red+white and a black.  only tried one but the others look OK, the red+white looks ubercrimpy but about reasonably comfy. (apparently the sidewall is out on the black).

Went on Friday. Very good conditions made for a great session. The two new black problems seem to have at least one very hard move on each of them. Likewise the new red problem which I couldn't really work out (it's either stupidly reachy or really bunched up?). The red and white crimpy thing felt hard until I got warmed up. It's a nice problem. There's also a new green thing left hand end which I had a quick go at but didn't do. All in all, loads to do.

theres a new easy circuit too.

The old easy circuit's been taken down though so this is no big deal. 

[dave]

any news on further development on the training board? I know the idea was to see how it went an further tweak. I'd say that the existing stuff is fine and that what we need now is just more problems on there, theres space for a few, and if you're on there trying to make up your own shit I tend to find big blank spaces where theres nothing to go for, or nowt bar jugs. a good overall spread would be nice.

[Percy B]

Time to resurrect this thread. After much debate and ting we have finally found some space to crowbar a 45 degree board into The Works. Work starts Monday - the easy side of the campus board will be out of action for a day or two, but the harder side is about to get a face lift (plastic pipes off, the nice rungs from the other side move into this space, and those massive sharp rungs that face the comp wall go onto Sams wood burner). In place of the easy side of the campus board will be a 45 degree board courtesy of Moon Climbing. Ben has had considerable input into this board, and will continue to do so in the form of providing a good deal of the holds for it and setting on it. Wooden holds have been offered from those kind gentlemen at Beastmaker (who are taking their board down and are looking to re-house some of their nasty little holds).

There won't be any jugs on this board - it is specifically aimed at top-end climbers only. Elitist? Too right.

We loose one side of the campus board, but finally get our 45 board, and the other side of the campus board will get a good facelift and refurb. The fingerboards will be rehoused on a new purpose-built beam near the seating area. This seems to be the best solution to the shortcomings in our hardcore training facilities I have found short of renting another building, and I think it should be a winner. It should be open soon - check the webshite for more details.

[reeve]

Dynamite. Was wondering what all them metal poles were going to be used for when I was there tonight.
What's the plan for the current training board, keep it as a mix of circuits and problems or purely circuits?

[Paul B]

Ooooh how I resisted using the quote function I just don't know. 

Nice Percy, Sam and Graeme. Its good to see the works evolving, I look forward to seeing the finish boards.

[abarro81]

Good stuff.

What's the plan for the current training board, keep it as a mix of circuits and problems or purely circuits?

Circuit me up to the MAX!

[reeve]

In all fairness Paul, they've probably only dont it to save themselves some earache from you