Jorgeson Repeats The Promise (Read 49921 times)

Adam Lincoln · October 28, 2008, 08:26:56 pm

In an hour!
Fine effort.
Thoughts were E8 for him.

Oli · October 28, 2008, 08:28:10 pm

Effort.

nik at work · October 28, 2008, 08:38:03 pm

Eeeek and Wowsers

andy popp · October 28, 2008, 08:42:57 pm

This is clearly going to get seriously embarrassing.

Zods Beard · October 28, 2008, 08:54:01 pm

I agree, I can see this one going on and on...

Will Hunt · October 28, 2008, 08:57:03 pm

Uh oh. I see a shit storm on the horizon. Good effort the man

Is this a confirmed report by the man himself or some imposter spamming Mick Ryan?

Fiend · October 28, 2008, 09:04:47 pm

Did he use plenty of pads? Compared to Keenus with the single unlikely slider?

north_country_boy · October 28, 2008, 09:08:12 pm

Great effort!

Out of interest has Superstition (Miles Gibson's E8 7a to the left) had any repeats?

nik at work · October 28, 2008, 09:10:59 pm

I have a very vague notion that Keenus may have done it. This is not gospel though as I am old and senile and it is only an inkling. Anyone want to offer some useful information?

butters · October 28, 2008, 09:13:32 pm

Two pads down and a slightly different sequence apparently - read all about it here!!

bluebrad

Fiend · October 28, 2008, 09:27:17 pm

Butters you are the new Adam Lincoln.

Interesting stuff. I had a friend (a friend of Crabstix) who assured me that the slider was rubbish and bag-weight only $:-\$

This is gonna shake things up maybe,....

AndiT · October 28, 2008, 09:45:45 pm

I can't open his PDF for some reason, probably something to do with living in Leek.

So, other than Statestman, Parthian and The Promise, what is his tick list to date? Oh, and when is he coming to the Roaches so I can run for cover?

andy popp · October 28, 2008, 09:54:08 pm

They've been but it rained. So they went to the Churnet (stop-press; Churnet is new Rocklands) and all did Thumbelina - I'm afraid one of them had forgetten their shoes and did it in trainers (allegedly).

ps. your computer might just be blocking the pdf as a popup.

Drew · October 28, 2008, 09:55:19 pm

Anyone think we might be seeing the second ascent of The Groove?

Sloper · October 28, 2008, 09:57:30 pm

Looks like the chap that turned up at the pebble just as I had to go back home and deal with a moron client instead of flashing the ace.

Anyway, the thing is cutting edge always takes a while to sttle down, anyone rember two tribes by F-G-T-H, how many column inches would the 'relax' line get now?

Promise will settle to a given grade whegther it is E8 or E10 remains to be seen, but it would be a brave man to call the FA an egotisitical over grader.

Drew · October 28, 2008, 10:00:56 pm

Quote from: Sloper on October 28, 2008, 09:57:30 pm

Looks like the chap that turned up at the pebble just as I had to go back home and deal with a moron client instead of flashing the ace.

Anyway, the thing is cutting edge always takes a while to sttle down, anyone rember two tribes by F-G-T-H, how many column inches would the 'relax' line get now?

Is it me, or does that make no sense whatsoever? Maybe I'm just being dumb?

nik at work · October 29, 2008, 08:13:14 am

Don't worry Slopers first language is Latin, his postings tend to lose something in the translation.

Jaspersharpe · October 29, 2008, 11:08:44 am

I think he means the "relax" line in the tune "Relax" (rather than "Two Tribes". Clue's in the title like.) that kicked up a fuss in the 80s. Nobody would bat an eyelid now. However, I don't quite get the analogy or rather, it seems a bit tenuous.

SA Chris · October 29, 2008, 11:42:32 am

I think the "link" is they are both cutting edge in ther respective areas; FGTH was the cutting edge of controversy in it's time, I guess like (Ross and Brand are now), and The Promise is (just about) the cuttting edge of top-end grading.

Not a great analogy, but I kind of see the direction he is coming from (if that is what he was aiming for).

Jaspersharpe · October 29, 2008, 12:23:39 pm

Although this ascent and downgrade will obviously get (the Cocktalk) tongues wagging I'd have thought it's not actually that controversial. I mean, KJ has said that James' original sequence seemed "completely out of the question" and he's also described the gear as bomber. So James did a much harder sequence and thought that the gear was just psychological. He graded it with reference to Equilibrium which he found easier, so E10. KJ has climbed it with a better, easier sequence and found the gear to be good so E8. It's not that much of a big deal shirley? Tis a bloody good effort though.

SA Chris · October 29, 2008, 01:43:47 pm

Agree. Plus the extra pad, sounds about right.

T_B · October 29, 2008, 02:00:37 pm

Quote from: Jaspersharpe on October 29, 2008, 12:23:39 pm

Although this ascent and downgrade will obviously get (the Cocktalk) tongues wagging I'd have thought it's not actually that controversial. I mean, KJ has said that James' original sequence seemed "completely out of the question" and he's also described the gear as bomber. So James did a much harder sequence and thought that the gear was just psychological. He graded it with reference to Equilibrium which he found easier, so E10. KJ has climbed it with a better, easier sequence and found the gear to be good so E8. It's not that much of a big deal shirley? Tis a bloody good effort though.

It's nothing new for routes to get downgraded, especially the short, bouldery variety which are hard to grade anyway.

To be fair, KJ's blog doesn't say anything about where the beta came from (i.e. not necessarily JP) and to me, the photos look like he's doing the same moves. What is more significant is that he thought the gear was good.

I've just placed my bet for a Gaia flash next

Jim · October 29, 2008, 02:04:21 pm

Well put Jasper.
Hopefully it will lead to some more repeats as well.
There is also the direct start to superstition to go as well, I don't think this has been done

Hockstack · October 29, 2008, 02:05:04 pm

I think i talk for many people when i say all of the top Britsh climbers should be Embarrassed. Where have all the good climbers gone?????

I think we need to have a Serious look at are Selves. Maybe pay the good ones to climb full time and stop fucking around.

SA Chris · October 29, 2008, 02:15:05 pm

Why embarrassed? A team of super motivated, super talented full time climbers, specialist in highball / short bold grit type routes come over and do good? I'm pleased they have made an effort to come, and have got some good conditions to make some fine ascents in a good ethical style, and appear to be enjoying the experience.