significant repeats (Read 4975111 times)

Adam Lincoln · February 21, 2010, 06:58:36 pm

I did the first ascent since the hold breakage of Manchester Dogs today. Its not changed the grade i don't think, probably still V11?

but you have to use a heel to do the move to flat hold at top now as you can't get a good enough drop knee in anymore.

Ru · February 21, 2010, 07:05:23 pm

What's snapped and which drop knee?

Adam Lincoln · February 21, 2010, 07:08:04 pm

Quote from: Ru on February 21, 2010, 07:05:23 pm

What's snapped and which drop knee?

The jug at the start is now a crimp. When i did it last year i used a drop knee off the start jug to go from right hand side pull up to flat hold at top. Maybe others do it differently...

SamD · February 21, 2010, 07:08:44 pm

I was pipped to the post by adam today, and snagged the second ascent. Having never done it before the hold broke, I really can't compare difficulty with before and after but i would say it probably squeezes in at 8A.

SamD · February 21, 2010, 07:10:14 pm

That said i really have no idea about grades; adam is definitely more qualified to grade it than i am.

c.j.d. · February 21, 2010, 08:28:36 pm

Nice one. I had a quick play on this last week.

I have always done the second move with my feet low anyway, so the foot thing does'nt make any odds to me.

Always bigs ups to re-ascending a Higg-piece. Good effort.

andy_e · February 22, 2010, 12:27:00 am

I knew you'd come out of lurking to tell the world about your ascent Sam. Good effort you pair of beasts.

Doylo · February 22, 2010, 08:25:44 pm

at least you got there before CJD upgraded it to 8a+

abarro81 · February 25, 2010, 09:32:58 am

Sounds like it's a FA rather than a repeat but this seemed as good a place as any to put it: Tom Bolger's done 9a in Santa Linya: http://tombolgerclimbing.blogspot.com/

Jaspersharpe · February 25, 2010, 09:43:35 am

Effort. Sounds like he's on amazing form from the blog.

Fiend · February 25, 2010, 10:09:04 am

About time brits started ticking some more 9s.

slackline · February 25, 2010, 10:40:49 am

Quote from: Fiend on February 25, 2010, 10:09:04 am

About time brits started ticking some more 9s.

Pull your finger out then

Jaspersharpe · February 25, 2010, 10:50:00 am

That 6 is upside down Fiend.

Doylo · February 25, 2010, 12:26:16 pm

Mawson said he was close.amazing!

Paul B · February 25, 2010, 02:01:11 pm

Its only a matter of time.

north_country_boy · February 25, 2010, 04:32:49 pm

Great Effort Tom you beast!!

chris_j_s · February 25, 2010, 05:16:19 pm

Awesome effort from Tom and a good end to what must have been a frustrating 9a quest - either falling off the last move of various 9a's or having them downgraded by Ramon!

Ethan · February 28, 2010, 12:00:02 am

First 8c by Daila Ojeda, Fish eye in Oliana!

http://englishdailaojeda.blogspot.com/

some snazzy pictures

Ethan · February 28, 2010, 11:47:56 am

Therese Johansen has done four 8A's in three days in Chironico!
http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/

chris_j_s · February 28, 2010, 07:05:23 pm

Tom Bolger has just done another 9a, Fuck the System. Thats 2 9a's in 3 days!

http://tombolgerclimbing.blogspot.com/

lukeyboy · February 28, 2010, 07:59:13 pm

Quote from: chris_j_s on February 28, 2010, 07:05:23 pm

Tom Bolger has just done another 9a, Fuck the System. Thats 2 9a's in 3 days!

http://tombolgerclimbing.blogspot.com/

Beast

willackers · March 07, 2010, 12:01:05 pm

Mark McQuade made the 3rd ascent of Sanction on Friday.

3rd Scotsman to climb font 8b! Effort!

Ethan · March 08, 2010, 10:05:55 am

Seems that Ondra has made a super quick (3rd try) ascent of A meurte F9a a few days ago.

http://www.lezec.cz/clanek.php?key=8499

Cool video of Cédric Lachat sending it there too.

Krank · March 09, 2010, 01:37:10 pm

3 tries is wrong, just plain wrong. The word mutant fails to describe this lad.

slackline · March 09, 2010, 01:54:52 pm

Quote from: Krank on March 09, 2010, 01:37:10 pm

The word mutant fails to describe this lad.

How about "Beast!"?