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significant repeats (Read 2476020 times)

Krank

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#925 Re: significant repeats
March 09, 2010, 01:59:17 pm
id put mutant above beast, maybe beastly freak mutant comes closer but thats still not really close is it

dobbin

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#926 Re: significant repeats
March 09, 2010, 02:23:30 pm
Mark McQuade made the 3rd ascent of Sanction on Friday.

3rd Scotsman to climb font 8b! Effort!  :great:

Surely thats not right? there have got to be more haven't there?

Malcy
Dave Mac
Alan Cassidy?
Cubby?
Stuart Cameron?

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#927 Re: significant repeats
March 09, 2010, 02:26:07 pm
Pretty sure Stuart never climbed 8B. Don't think Cubby did despite being capable.  :-\

dobbin

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#928 Re: significant repeats
March 09, 2010, 03:00:04 pm
Just thought of another one - Rodma - what was that thing he did in Hueco?

JonI

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#929 Re: significant repeats
March 09, 2010, 03:14:02 pm
Hasn't Paul Savage done an 8B at Thirlstane or somewhere?

Jaspersharpe

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#930 Re: significant repeats
March 09, 2010, 03:24:14 pm
Just thought of another one - Rodma - what was that thing he did in Hueco?

El Techo de los Tres B? 8A/+. If that's the one you're on about that there's a video of on here somewhere.

iain

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#931 Re: significant repeats
March 09, 2010, 03:26:20 pm
There was a thread about Mark's repeat on ScottishClimbs (which appears to have vanished) by Dave Redpath saying it was the third and he's pretty knowledgable about who's done what in Scotland, and Alan C replied to it without saying he'd done 8B and he would normally be open about something like that, (I don't mean boasting although he'd have every right)
I'm fairly sure he's done 8A+ at Dumby.

Rodma's Hueco problem is in the non-quality videos, (for some reason I can't post a link at the mo, page 45)

dobbin

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#932 Re: significant repeats
March 09, 2010, 03:33:19 pm
If only there'd been a deep fried peanut butter sandwich at the top of La Proue - then he'd be on the list. Dammit, i tried Rodma, I tried...

SA Chris

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#933 Re: significant repeats
March 09, 2010, 03:44:56 pm
Hasn't Paul Savage done an 8B at Thirlstane or somewhere?

Quote
Paul Sav

Chinese Democracy - Thirlstane - 8a
My Evil Twin - Sandyhills - 8a
Zillion Dollar Sadist - Clifton 8a+

According to Greg's list

http://eliteukbinventory.blogspot.com/

willackers

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#934 Re: significant repeats
March 09, 2010, 07:54:06 pm
Pretty sure Mark is the 3rd, there's been a few Scots climbed 8a+ but not 8b, it's not an easy 8b either!!
Beast!

JonI

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#935 Re: significant repeats
March 10, 2010, 12:04:15 pm
Cool, thanks for that.  In my haste for historical accuracy I forgot to say well done to Mark... 8b is an awesome achievement!

dave k

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#936 Re: significant repeats
March 10, 2010, 03:22:16 pm
Pretty sure Stuart never climbed 8B. Don't think Cubby did despite being capable.  :-\

I think it was a Stuart on Pinch 2 on Minus Ten in my first bouldering video (I my still have it , but no video recorder to play it on!) Although it probably had some obscure eliminate rules and only got 8a+ by his sequence and has now undoubtedly been downgraded to 7c+ anyway! Plus he failed on the last move in the video anyway, so he might not have done it.


Jaspersharpe

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#937 Re: significant repeats
March 10, 2010, 03:35:06 pm
I think you've answered yourself pretty comprehensively there.  ;)

erm, sam

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#938 Re: significant repeats
March 10, 2010, 11:01:34 pm
He did say "a black fly on a rainy day" though, and thats worth more than 8b. Right?

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#939 Re: significant repeats
March 12, 2010, 08:41:26 am
Cool, thanks for that.  In my haste for historical accuracy I forgot to say well done to Mark... 8b is an awesome achievement!

Forgot too, Good effort loon.

Adam Lincoln

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#940 Re: significant repeats
March 13, 2010, 06:46:17 pm
Ondra has repeated Golpe de Estado, 9b.

Ethan

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#941 Re: significant repeats
March 13, 2010, 11:39:51 pm

c3po

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#942 Re: significant repeats
March 14, 2010, 08:39:53 am
Adam Lincoln ticked Nuclear Transplant at Woodwell yesterday which I think is worth a mention.

PS. the crag is pretty much completely dry now.

GCW

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#943 Re: significant repeats
March 14, 2010, 09:00:07 am
Alright Sean, you still allowed out nowadays?
Sam tickled his traverse a little while back, but I don't think he's been back on it again.  That will be a mental link!

habrich

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#944 Re: significant repeats
March 14, 2010, 09:26:20 am
Some pics and more info of the beast here

http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/

http://www.climb4fun.cz/climb4fun/index.php
And: http://www.czechclimbing.com/clanek.php?key=8512

Slightly bizarre ... "Today morning Czech Mountaineering Union hold press conference in Prague with a long distance telephone interview with Adam about preparation for climbing of the „Golpe de estado“ 9b. Just couple hours after the press conference he sent the route that was in focus of the questions."

Adam Lincoln

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#945 Re: significant repeats
March 14, 2010, 12:09:21 pm
Ondra has repeated Golpe de Estado, 9b.

He reckons hard 9b, after the breaking of a hold.
So, first confirmed repeat of a 9b then.



« Last Edit: March 14, 2010, 12:16:44 pm by Adam Lincoln »

Adam Lincoln

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#946 Re: significant repeats
March 14, 2010, 06:33:59 pm
Dan Walker did Unjustified today.

c3po

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#947 Re: significant repeats
March 14, 2010, 07:16:23 pm
How do GCW, I got spanked at Woodwell, I dont get out much any more but I live in hope.  Hopefull I'll get some stuff done this summer.  Hows your finger holding out.

GCW

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#948 Re: significant repeats
March 14, 2010, 08:11:33 pm
Getting better, so may well see you out and about.
Hope the family is well.

Andy F

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#949 Re: significant repeats
March 14, 2010, 08:34:16 pm
Dan Walker did Unjustified today.

  :great: Thought he'd send it today, he was tickling the belay yesterday. Now that t-shirt can finally get washed...

 

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