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significant repeats (Read 2439297 times)

Adam Lincoln

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#900 Re: significant repeats
February 21, 2010, 06:58:36 pm
I did the first ascent since the hold breakage of Manchester Dogs today. Its not changed the grade i don't think,  probably still  V11? :shrug:  but you have to use a heel to do the move to flat hold at top now as you can't get a good enough drop knee in anymore.

Ru

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#901 Re: significant repeats
February 21, 2010, 07:05:23 pm
What's snapped and which drop knee?

Adam Lincoln

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#902 Re: significant repeats
February 21, 2010, 07:08:04 pm
What's snapped and which drop knee?

The jug at the start is now a crimp. When i did it last year i used a drop knee off the start jug to go from right hand side pull up to flat hold at top. Maybe others do it differently...

SamD

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#903 Re: significant repeats
February 21, 2010, 07:08:44 pm
I was pipped to the post by adam today, and snagged the second ascent. Having never done it before the hold broke, I really can't compare difficulty with before and after but i would say it probably squeezes in at 8A.

SamD

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#904 Re: significant repeats
February 21, 2010, 07:10:14 pm
That said i really have no idea about grades; adam is definitely more qualified to grade it than i am.

c.j.d.

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#905 Re: significant repeats
February 21, 2010, 08:28:36 pm
Nice one.  I had a quick play on this last week. 

I have always done the second move with my feet low anyway, so the foot thing does'nt make any odds to me.

Always bigs ups to re-ascending a Higg-piece.  Good effort. :)

andy_e

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#906 Re: significant repeats
February 22, 2010, 12:27:00 am
I knew you'd come out of lurking to tell the world about your ascent Sam. Good effort you pair of beasts.

Doylo

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#907 Re: significant repeats
February 22, 2010, 08:25:44 pm
at least you got there before CJD upgraded it to 8a+ ;) ;D

abarro81

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#908 Re: significant repeats
February 25, 2010, 09:32:58 am
Sounds like it's a FA rather than a repeat but this seemed as good a place as any to put it: Tom Bolger's done 9a in Santa Linya: http://tombolgerclimbing.blogspot.com/   :bow:

Jaspersharpe

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#909 Re: significant repeats
February 25, 2010, 09:43:35 am
Effort. Sounds like he's on amazing form from the blog.

Fiend

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#910 Re: significant repeats
February 25, 2010, 10:09:04 am
About time brits started ticking some more 9s.

slackline

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#911 Re: significant repeats
February 25, 2010, 10:40:49 am
About time brits started ticking some more 9s.

Pull your finger out then  ;)

Jaspersharpe

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#912 Re: significant repeats
February 25, 2010, 10:50:00 am
That 6 is upside down Fiend.

Doylo

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#913 Re: significant repeats
February 25, 2010, 12:26:16 pm
Mawson said he was close.amazing!

Paul B

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#914 Re: significant repeats
February 25, 2010, 02:01:11 pm
Its only a matter of time.

north_country_boy

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#915 Re: significant repeats
February 25, 2010, 04:32:49 pm
Great Effort Tom you beast!!   :thumbsup:

chris_j_s

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#916 Re: significant repeats
February 25, 2010, 05:16:19 pm
Awesome effort from Tom and a good end to what must have been a frustrating 9a quest - either falling off the last move of various 9a's or having them downgraded by Ramon!

Ethan

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#917 Re: significant repeats
February 28, 2010, 12:00:02 am
First 8c by Daila Ojeda, Fish eye in Oliana!

http://englishdailaojeda.blogspot.com/

some snazzy pictures

Ethan

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#918 Re: significant repeats
February 28, 2010, 11:47:56 am
Therese Johansen has done four 8A's in three days in Chironico!
http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/

chris_j_s

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#919 Re: significant repeats
February 28, 2010, 07:05:23 pm
Tom Bolger has just done another 9a, Fuck the System. Thats 2 9a's in 3 days!

http://tombolgerclimbing.blogspot.com/

lukeyboy

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#920 Re: significant repeats
February 28, 2010, 07:59:13 pm
Tom Bolger has just done another 9a, Fuck the System. Thats 2 9a's in 3 days!

http://tombolgerclimbing.blogspot.com/
Beast  :great:

willackers

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#921 Re: significant repeats
March 07, 2010, 12:01:05 pm
Mark McQuade made the 3rd ascent of Sanction on Friday.

3rd Scotsman to climb font 8b! Effort!  :great:

Ethan

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#922 Re: significant repeats
March 08, 2010, 10:05:55 am
Seems that Ondra has made a super quick (3rd try) ascent of A meurte F9a a few days ago.

http://www.lezec.cz/clanek.php?key=8499

Cool video of CÚdric Lachat sending it there too.

Krank

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#923 Re: significant repeats
March 09, 2010, 01:37:10 pm
3 tries is wrong, just plain wrong. The word mutant fails to describe this lad.

slackline

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#924 Re: significant repeats
March 09, 2010, 01:54:52 pm
The word mutant fails to describe this lad.

How about "Beast!"?

 

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