[slackline]

It's hardly a flounce, I just don't get on with the 'banter and pisstaking' on here despite trying, so if you can't take the heat etc.etc.

Its nigh on impossible to expect people to post the responses that you want, its down to you to weed out that which you don't think is relevant and ignore (rather than getting wound up by) those responses which in your eyes are "banter and pisstaking".

have given up on threads like these.

From my limited observations your in the minority of people who post threads about head-games/psychological issues in climbing. There are a plethora of threads about training, often with very insightful responses, but since this is UKBouldering the focus would mainly be on bouldering where head-games are less of an issue (yes I know, most people do a bit of everything and there are some experienced climbers etc. etc.).

I have to say though, I'm with those who posted that it shouldn't matter, just go out, enjoy yourself, so what if you back off of something thats below your limit, there's always tomorrow, and at least at the end of the day your in the pub having a drink as opposed to waiting in A&E.

[cider nut]

its down to you to weed out that which you don't think is relevant and ignore (rather than getting wound up by) those responses which in your eyes are "banter and pisstaking".

Nah, it's down to me to piss off back to UKC where I came from

I have to say though, I'm with those who posted that it shouldn't matter, just go out, enjoy yourself, so what if you back off of something thats below your limit, there's always tomorrow, and at least at the end of the day your in the pub having a drink as opposed to waiting in A&E.

I'll have to agree to disagree a little, to me thinking about climbing is where its at, doesn't mean I don't enjoy myself either (it's possible to think about stuff without letting it spoil your day - it just helps the *next* day go better imo).  I finally clicked on some stuff last month, and onsighted my first E1 as well as climbing some HVS slabs.  Even wrote an article on it (soon to appear on UKC).  Each to their own though.

[robertostallioni]

I'll name that tune in 4

Time of the month

[cider nut]

Thanks for reinforcing my point

[slackline]

I'll have to agree to disagree a little, to me thinking about climbing is where its at, doesn't mean I don't enjoy myself either (it's possible to think about stuff without letting it spoil your day - it just helps the *next* day go better imo).  I finally clicked on some stuff last month, and onsighted my first E1 as well as climbing some HVS slabs.  Even wrote an article on it (soon to appear on UKC).  Each to their own though.

I didn't mean to imply that you shouldn't think about your climbing.  Its just that everyone has off days, and dwelling on it/being introspective too much might simply compound the problem.  Sounds like you've sorted things out though, good work, hope it continues.

[GCW]

no thanks to the bullshit on here. 

Don't worry, there won't be any more threads from me, I know where I don't fit in.

UKB is a funny place, Cider Nut.  I would suggest that the people here are a LOT more serious about their climbing than anyone over on UKC.  You may not realise who they are through the names but there's a lot of talented and dedicated people here.  And because people are on a similar wavelength, there's a lot of banter.
I'm sorry this thread's rubbed you up the wrong way, I'm confident it hasn't been malicious, but I think you've read the banter wrongly.

Anyway, at least your trad is starting to click.   

[nik at work]

In fact I'd say I climb at my best when I climb w/ no mind at all.  I've tranced my way up loads of routes (bold slabs in particular).

Only just read a few snippets of this thread, and it seems to be dying a death anyway but just noticed the above and thought it worthy of comment.

I TOTALLY FUCKING AGREE. 99.9% of the time I'm shit at climbing but those few moments of inspiration have been when I've switched on the auto-pilot. A wad for the teutonic font of wisdom.

[robertostallioni]

UKB is a funny place, Cider Nut.  I would suggest that the people here are a LOT more serious about their climbing than anyone over on UKC.  You may not realise who they are through the names but there's a lot of talented and dedicated people here.  And because people are on a similar wavelength, there's a lot of banter.
I'm sorry this thread's rubbed you up the wrong way, I'm confident it hasn't been malicious, but I think you've read the banter wrongly.

Anyway, at least your trad is starting to click.   

Thats what I meant to say.

[GCW]

A wad for the teutonic font of wisdom all bullshit.

Gotta say hOUD has a point (and a pint no doubt).
Thinking too much often hinders your climbing.  Being relaxed and just going with the flow often works wonders.  Having said that, I've no idea how to get into "The Zone" to acheive that sort of thing.  Lucky I don't do routes now.  

[Paul B]

I've no idea how to get into "The Zone" to acheive that sort of thing.  Lucky I don't do routes now.  

I thinks its just one of those things that comes and goes, one day you'll be bold as brass and not really scared of anything, the next your balls seem to shrivel up (maybe thats the steroids eh ) and you're left whimpering even though you're a foot above your last bolt.
I also think that sometimes its very dependant on the sequence of events; if you're warm up goes well or you find your usual warm up at a crag really easy then the day goes well and you push yourself, if it goes badly you start worrying, complicating things and just end up (althought I hate the phrase) 'zoning out'...

ps. cheer up cider nut...

[GCW]

and you're left whimpering even though you're a foot above your last bolt.

Funny you say that Paul, but I never really likes sport 'cos I didn't trust gear someone else had placed.  Trad wise I knew what the gear was like and was OK taking lobs.  Sport always made me reluctant to lob.  How weird is that? 

[Paul B]

and you're left whimpering even though you're a foot above your last bolt.

Funny you say that Paul, but I never really likes sport 'cos I didn't trust gear someone else had placed.  Trad wise I knew what the gear was like and was OK taking lobs.  Sport always made me reluctant to lob.  How weird is that? 

I guess that depends on where you were doing sport 


A new article I see:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1082

[cider nut]

Hmmm yeah.  What do you think of it?

[Paul B]

Hmmm yeah.  What do you think of it?

I'm not really the best person to ask when it comes down to the mental side of climbing...Sorry

I'm sure someone else will read it and give their opinion soon enough.

[cider nut]

That's what I'm worried about

[Johnny Brown]

Its good, its a trap we all fall into. I never fall off trad climbing, cos I don't push it hard enough. I've got the technique and the craft to enjoy an off-vertical E5 which is falling to bits, but its still a comfort zone. Steep stuff scares me shitless, I'm getting better but once the pump sets in I go blind and start looking for ways out. I just need to do more but its always a few days here, then a couple of months back in the peak. Its the way I've always improved though - consolidate a certain style/grade then try to convince myself I can climb the grade below outside it. 

[butters]

Its the way I've always improved though - consolidate a certain style/grade then try to convince myself I can climb the grade below outside it. 

Similar to the method that I am using at the minute - get comfortable at a level on one sort of rock (grit in this instance) and then prove to yourself that you can climb a grade lower on different rock of at least two types (limestone and granite in my case) to give yourself a chance to figure out how it works with regard to movement, gear placements and the like before launching into matching that level.

Repeat as required until you reach E11 or until you no longer enjoy it... 

bluebrad

[SA Chris]

Like JB It's easier for me to determine what grade I can climb at by using a long plumb bob. Subtract grades according to distance the bob is away from the rock. Rock type is irrelevant, I think I've climbed most of them in the UK by now.

[Falling Down]

Good article Sarah....

[cider nut]

Cheers guys.

[moose]

A very honest article, though I feel little closer to understanding the problems it, and these threads, write about.  

Actual climbing is something I have rarely agonised about.  Admittedly, I often get anxious about matters that might interfere with climbing: too much work, too little strength, too much weight etc.  However, I have always enjoyed the climbs themselves: to me they represent freedom from thought, a radical disconnection from the quotidian.  At worst they are a relief and contrast from the working week. When the motivation to face the rock is at its lowest ebb, I regard them as I do a side-salad: something to deal now in order to feel better and happier later.

Being shut-down or finding things tricky out of all proportion to their grade or appearance is just part of life's rich pageant.  Being humbled by a low-grade grovel is more a reason for amusement than self-doubt or castigation... especially if it comes shortly after dancing up a high-grade technical test piece.  Hubris, when self-acknowledged  is a pleasure and a virtue.  Either that or I have a mental problem as, although primarily a boulderer (and a weak / "techniquey" one at that), I do find myself unerringly attracted to the hideously "old-school" and potentially embararrassing end of trad!