[account_inactive]

How about Brass Monkeys?  Probably only 7a+/b for the very tall according to Arthur's Dad

[Jim]

Like Dave, I think I could maybe pull-on using the first sidepull and crimp, not easily though. I'm pretty sure Jerry has a bigger span than me.

Oh look another tall person with long arms can also do it like this (or at least claims he can!) and arthur's dads arms are indeed very long

[Big Jim]

What a load of crap.

No one could possibly deny that being heavy is a hindrance, as you blatantly have to put more load on the holds - you're going on a diet, and I bet your grade will improve as a result (so long as you stick to it!).  While height and weight are not the same thing (witness Dave Graham and Jim), being tall does tend to make you heavy, and will tend to make some problems harder and / or more painful.

I am of a similar stature to jimacp, being 6'4", 84kg.  Generally I feel that this does offer an advantage on the majority of grit problems - I can think of loads of problems which are easier for the tall but very few that are harder.  People with unusual physiques have to accept that guidebook grades only offer a hint at how hard a problem might be, and if you are very tall or short the accuracy will decrease for you.

I think the # idea is fair enough, but I'm not sure it conveys all that much more information than just stating that a problem is morpho or harder for the short.  Excessive use of symbols (are you going to use ! too?) might make the guidebook start to look like an OS map though...

[Paul B]

 

[Bonjoy]

  People with unusual physiques have to accept that guidebook grades only offer a hint at how hard a problem might be, and if you are very tall or short the accuracy will decrease for you.

If writers strive to make the starting point as consistant as possible it should help make this height factoring easier. If you go on a problem and you don't know if the grade given is for the FA, who you may not know the size of, it is bound to complicate the process.

I think the # idea is fair enough, but I'm not sure it conveys all that much more information than just stating that a problem is morpho or harder for the short. 

Read what I've already wrote and you'll see it conveys neither of those pieces of information per se. It conveys one piece of information only, that a problem has so far only been climbed by tall climbers and that therefore my stated rule of grading problems for someone of average height can not accurately be applied. Possible reasons for this can be inferred, it may indeed be due to a very long move, but equally it may just be because the problem is very new. The prob may well be correct at the given grade, it may be wrong, it awaits further ascents (by shorter climbers) to confirm. That's what the symbol mean.

Excessive use of symbols (are you going to use ! too?) might make the guidebook start to look like an OS map though...

Again, read the thread and you'll see that it's not for a guidebook. But as it happens I think OS maps are a shining example of good clear design, presenting maximum information in a small area. The 'look' of a guidebook has always come some way down my list of concerns, well below the quality and quantity of information therein.

[Andy B]

Went to wharncliffe today for my first day out since dislocating my shoulder. Nice little circuit there, got hailed off after a few hours but was fun none the less.

Anyway Andy B (-2" ape index) managed 2nd ascent of kim span and i sneaked in for the 3rd. Really not that lanky at all, we both thought 7a is appropriate. Very good problem as well! Lots of fun.

Kim Span is one of the best problems at Wharncliffe.

Anyone do Sneaky Little Fingers, by the way?

I thought it was a first ascent until dave said it looked familiar. Nice problem.

Outlook Roof and Pixie Arete are both classics.

[Will Hunt]

Has the 7ft Dyno at Pex ever been done by a shorty?

[AndiT]

Of course I would argue that the best climbers always look like they're climbing tall, but seeing as you've put it straight that the dreaded # symbol would only be for problems only repeated by tallies. This would be a little like having a @ sign next to The Very Big and The Very Small as it's only been repeated by climbers under 3'2".

Monologue at Ramshaw is possibly unrepeated and I found that reachy, I don't often feel that problems are reachy....

[Jim]

T-rex used to rule the earth. They died out because they couldn't crush hard bloc's

[Somebody's Fool]

The ironic thing is, they were probably crushed by hard blocs. Good riddance as well. Short armed bastards.

[philo]

what about underdog traverse at bowden?
its hard enough since one of the holds has been broken off but the moves where you need your feet on the back seem shocking for the small! and force a different sequence. although ive not seen any shorties do it.  sure i read a bout davie mc doing it and ill sift youtube for footage.
but this is harder for the short surely?

[Paul B]

which hold has broken? when? I was under the impression that the lowest of the low bits of rock was out of bounds anyway

[a dense loner]

i don't think the scope of jon's guide includes one problem at bowden.

if you don't think you're tall jasper, why can everyone at the works see your head higher than everyone else's? not when you're on the wall either. you are lanky

dawes is about 5.5 houdini. he's certainly not 2 or 3 inches shorter

the list is a good idea jon

everybody who starts intense using the right hand hold gives it 7c. jumping, even a couple of inches, off stacked pads makes this so much harder. strange problem this

[philo]

which hold has broken? when? I was under the impression that the lowest of the low bits of rock was out of bounds anyway

the very back wall?
im sure its in, the ledge for your feet for the start and the middle section. and when you go into cave right hand. it would be impossible without it
and the gangle ripped the hold off before you do the big span to the small crimp/scars (near the start).
the hold is now a pinch