Also your equation is kinda unbalanced. If you're failing to reach a hold because you are too heavy to lift your ass to it, running or another weightloss regime will help you reach that hold. Growing bigger may also have the same effect, hence, there are many ways to skin a cat, grasshopper.
likewise Tyler "I climb outdoors 4 times a week and indoors 5. I usually go outside, climb, and then go indoors in the eve." Which is either inspiring or depressing depending on you how you look at it!
climbing LOTS helps. Look at Simpson "For the two years of preparation I put in for Hubble and hopefully Action Directe I was doing climbing specific training for over 25 hours per week, 5 days per week, 2 x 2.5 hour sessions per day, not to mention none climbing specific training which added up to another ten hours per week and included a lot of road running and gym work." likewise Tyler "I climb outdoors 4 times a week and indoors 5. I usually go outside, climb, and then go indoors in the eve." Which is either inspiring or depressing depending on you how you look at it!
Achieving great things in any past time is still great
What are you trying to say?!?!?! The power of Grammar ladies and gentleman, far greater than the power of 1-5-9!
It also sounds like you'd be better off going climbing more.
You need to identify where you weaknesses are. Can you perform 1-4-7 on larger rungs? If not then the problem is in your arms/shoulder girdle. If you can then it's an issue with finger strength.
Watching women climb can be more instructive for me.
Stability at the shoulders is crucial if you want your arms to function properly. As I'm sure you're all aware, the rotator cuff is a group of muscles that provides stability at the shoulder when the arm is moving/loaded. They act as 'guy ropes' to keep the head of the humerus roughly in the right position in the glenoid 'socket' ....
My feeling is that workng on your shoulder stability (theraband exs, weights, rings) will pay dividends, and prevent injury.
I agree that pull ups and campusing are just a tool to help, and that the majority of effort should be spent climbing. I also generally agree that strength in your shoulder girdle is something that you could improve on, however, I don't think that doing lots of pull ups is the best way to achieve this goal. Don't know what your starting number of max pull ups is yet, so it's difficult to say that you should do weighted pull ups, but, I suspect after ten years of climbing you might be able to muster 5+. Whatever the case, you might try doing pull ups with added weight or just bodyweight as long as you are close to failure between 2-5 reps.
Kinematically (technical aspects of movement), there are several issues that I have seen/gone through.... As you get close to 90 degrees with the upper elbow, the bottom hand is pushing furiously to maintain speed/momentum to ladder higher.
can you get your hands on a copy of the real thing? moonie will demonstrate perfectly. also, have you read the old thread on campus-ing - nige put a very useful essay on there.
I think this is the right bit:http://www.highsport.se/news/old/campus.mpeg
I agree that pull ups and campusing are just a tool to help, and that the majority of effort should be spent climbing. I also generally agree that strength in your shoulder girdle is something that you could improve on, however, I don't think that doing lots of pull ups is the best way to achieve this goal. Don't know what your starting number of max pull ups is yet, so it's difficult to say that you should do weighted pull ups, but, I suspect after ten years of climbing you might be able to muster 5+. Whatever the case, you might try doing pull ups with added weight or just bodyweight as long as you are close to failure between 2-5 reps. Anecdotally, doing large volumes of pull ups and climbing a lot is a prescription for tendon issues.Kinetically (Strength, Power, Endurance values), the goal is to improve your 1. starting strength (right out of the bottom of the pull) and 2. explosive strength (carrying momentum/speed/acceleration through the middle top of the pull). I believe that weighted pulls and adding some explosive/reactive/plyometric pulls achieve this goal better than lots of pull ups.Kinematically (technical aspects of movement), there are several issues that I have seen/gone through:As someone already pointed out, start with shoulders/elbow engaged (slightly bent). The initial pull should have a reaction that looks like a small 'bounce' that I call SSC (stretch shortening cycle) akin to the jump for a tip off in basketball. The lower body quickly precedes the upper body in action....before the SSC, the hips/knees quickly lower then rise before the upper body action. Knees stay in this bent position until the latch.Top or reaching hand many times catches with a straight elbow. It's OK if it is the max pull, but you have to immediately get into a slightly bent position (if you can't, that's a case for increased pull up strength). Generally, try to always latch the upper rung with a slight bend in the elbow. The first latch should have a slight pause following, then lower body action as previously described, followed by a somewhat equal pull with both hands (this is the sticking point for many, as they seem to heavily weight the lower hand and pull disproportionately AND SEQUENTIALLY with the upper only). The knees and torso should start turning toward the upper hand as this is a mechanical advantage. As you get close to 90 degrees with the upper elbow, the bottom hand is pushing furiously to maintain speed/momentum to ladder higher.Pull ups - 5x5 three times a weekCampus - once a week ~6-12 goes on max pulls/laddering (depending on the individual)Hope the helps
I think the full-crimp is asking for an injury.