[Jaspersharpe]

I made a primitive ladder to start this bit, ie a plank with some bits of wood nailled to it. Unfortunately it proved to be about English 6c to get stood up on the thing so I sacked it off.

Ha ha ha ha. Just spotted this. Good effort!

[dave]

OK i've taken the liberty (and the opportunity to waste some time at work) of compiling all the problems mentioned herein into a roughly graded list, linkups in italics, and consistent/conventional naming. have left out the theoretical linkups that might not have been done yet, and stuff we've got no grade for yet (like mick adams thing).

as someone who's only ticked some of these i'm guessing at the order, particularly as theres a ton of incomparable 7cs, and mainly its based on the Harris's order. if anyone doesn't know what banksy's undercut is, its a problem right of bigger splash, undercut to some poor edges, then to the break via crimp out right if you spot it.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Banksy's undercut problem                                                   7a/+
Bigger Tail (jump start)                                                          7a+
Bigger Splash                                                                        7a+
Kudos Easy                                                                           7b
Kudos Traverse                                                                     7b
Kudos Hard                                                                           7b+
Bigger Splash direct (LH u’cut)                                             7b+
The Press                                                                              7b+
Kudos (SS) into Bigger Tail                                                   7b+
Kudos Easy (SS)                                                                   7b+/c
Kudos Hard (SS)                                                                   7c
Twin Pinches to jug                                                               7c
Kudos Traverse there-and-back                                            7c
Standing Varian Start to Bigger Tail                                      7c
Original Kudos (no jugs, rock onto glassy sloper)                 7c
Low Right Bigger Splash Direct                                             7c
Problem left of Kudos (stand start)                                        7c/7c+
Low Right Press                                                                    7c+
Tsunamish (Tsunami with pocket)                                        7c+
Press (or BSD) + Reverse Kudos Trav + Kudos Hard          7c+/8a
Tsunami (sloper match)                                                        8a
Low Left Press                                                                      8a+
Low Right Press + Reverse Kudos Trav + Kudos Hard        8a+
Tsunami + Reverse Kudos Trav + Kudos Hard                    8a+
Varian Sitter                                                                          8a+/8b
Low Left Press + Reverse Kudos Trav + Kudos Hard          8a+/8b 

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Should be enough there to get even Johnny Footwork psyched. Any comments?

P.S. any idea why the forum software fucks up/ignores spacing and tab formating that everything else, even notepad, can handle?

[slackline]

P.S. any idea why the forum software fucks up/ignores spacing and tab formating that everything else, even notepad, can handle?

No idea, but you can use the tables instead, et voila...

Problem	Grade
Banksy's undercut problem	7a/+
Bigger Tail (jump start)	7a+
Bigger Splash	7a+
Kudos Easy	7b
Kudos Traverse	7b
Kudos Hard	7b+
Bigger Splash direct (LH u’cut)	7b+
The Press	7b+
Kudos (SS) into Bigger Tail	7b+
Kudos Easy (SS)	7b+/c
Kudos Hard (SS)	7c
Twin Pinches to jug	7c
Kudos Traverse there-and-back	7c
Standing Varian Start to Bigger Tail	7c
Original Kudos (no jugs, rock onto glassy sloper)	7c
Low Right Bigger Splash Direct	7c
Problem left of Kudos (stand start)	7c/7c+
Low Right Press	7c+
Tsunamish (Tsunami with pocket)	7c+
Press (or BSD) + Reverse Kudos Trav + Kudos Hard	7c+/8a
Tsunami (sloper match)	8a
Low Left Press	8a+
Low Right Press + Reverse Kudos Trav + Kudos Hard	8a+
Tsunami + Reverse Kudos Trav + Kudos Hard	8a+
Varian Sitter	8a+/8b
Low Left Press + Reverse Kudos Trav + Kudos Hard	8a+/8b

[dave]

nows thats some hot shit.

[r-man]

I always knew you had a higher purpose in life, Dave! Nice one. You've Parisella'd Rubicon!

Where's the Mick Adams problem though?

7b+ for Kudos hard...?

[Stubbs]

As you've got other slashies on your list perhaps a demotion of BSD to 7B/+?

[galpinos]

Good effort Dave. I now know the names and grades of all the problems I can't do! My ticklist has just got massive.

[dave]

Where's the Mick Adams problem though?

Where physically, or why isn't is on the list? Psycally it goes from the press sidepull into the jug of the pinch, probably from a low start. Not on list cos we have no grade.

7b+ for Kudos hard...?

fuck knows, just going on the harris list. ditto for BSD - do people seriously find this easier than the press? i'm ass-tonished.

[Stubbs]

I did BSD in a session but couldn't get the move to the crimp on the press - perhaps BSD is more basic and you have to learn the body position for the press?  I dunno...

[Jaspersharpe]

Good work dave.  So many good problems on a little chunk of rock.

do people seriously find this easier than the press? i'm ass-tonished.

I do definitely. BSD 7B, The Press 7B+ I reckon. The Press is two tricky moves instead of just one slap (which is pretty easy once you get your feet sorted) plus it's much more conditions dependent. I can imagine that on a freezing morning The Press would feel piss but not having had the opportunity of doing it in mint conditions I don't actually know this. I can't fathom moving off The Press gaston from the lower start mind, although it's easy enough getting it - arms way too weak I think (of course).

Kudos is a funny one as I find the "hard" way pretty easy but I think it just suits me (as discussed). Having done Kudos Original yesterday my next project will be the completely eliminate Kudos Original (SS) where obviously you can use the jugs for hands but not feet. Ha ha, get it on the list! The essence of lime bouldering, worth doing as the sloper rockover move is quality. Top end 7C or very bottom end 7C+? I hate / grades.

I have so much to do on this wall.

[dave]

I recon for Kudos Original (SS) to make any sence you've got to eliminate the handrail for hands (as you do on the standing start) as well as feet, otherwise its just screwy.

[Jaspersharpe]

That would probably be rather tricky. But worth a try!

[travs]

Since when was the hand rail eliminated on Kudos hard way? And more to the point why? I really don't see it making any difference as the pocket for your left hand is bommer as is the small spike for your right foot below the hand rail. I really cant see eliminating the hand rail changing the grade so why eliminate it?

[Jaspersharpe]

It's not on the hard way that it's eliminated on it's on the original (see Andy's post). The rail didn't used to be there so the problem rocked over on the polished sloper to the left. It's a worthy probelm as it's how it was first climbed and is worth doing as it's a nice move. It's also a lot harder than using the rail for feet.

[Jaspersharpe]

I will also add Original Hotfun (7c) which starts LH on 3 finger pocket, RH to gaston, rockover on poor smear left of jug rail (basically the jug rail didn't use to exist and this problem is a lot harder than using the jug).

[travs]

When Kudos was first done, ie 'Original Way?', it was done the hard way ie with the rock over. I know because I repeated this shortly after Chris Gore about 18 years or so ago. At that time there was definitely a good hold on the rail, at the right hand end I think. I understand eliminating the rest of the hold would make the easy way a bit harder but what are you going to say? Only use the very last 2 inches at the right hand end?

[Jaspersharpe]

It doesn't make any difference for hands as you say. It's more that you haven't got a huge great ledge to stand on with your left foot thus making the rockover steady. Instead it's a much harder (and in my opinion better) move rocking over on the smeary thing. This was the way I did it years ago as shown by Quentin. There was, as you say, a hold for the right hand but no big ledge to rock up on so doing the problem this way is in fact as close to the original as you're going to get.

But at the end of the day it is just an eliminate Neil. Nothing to worry about! 

[travs]

This is quite interesting because I've never tried rocking with my foot on the big ledge, I've always (or always did, as I haven't tried this problem for a few years) rocked on the sloper. I will however check it out next I'm down there.

[Jaspersharpe]

If I stand in the ledge I can static the move quite easily. Rocking on the sloper took me about six goes yesterday and required a lot more effort.

[travs]

I thought you were complaining about being weak, yet you're climbing 7c?

[Jaspersharpe]

Only if it really suits me. 

[Kingy]

For Kudos Original SS you could use the jug rail on the right hand side for the right hand only thus eliminating the new left hand ledgy thing for the LH. This would be in keeping with the original problem and would not add much/ any difficulty - it would however be how this problem was originally climbed and would avoid the sneaking suspicion that you are using a jug that you should not be using! Fair enough its eliminating part of a hold but is this so terrible?!! 

[Jaspersharpe]

Spot on Kingy,I was thinking exactly the same thing last night. God I can be such a geek sometimes.

[dave]

maybe this will throw a spanner in the works - theres a sequence for kudos hardway that takes the backhand hold, puts right heel on the righthand end of the jug rail, drops the toe into a heel-toe, then bounces up the intermediates to the "jug" with left hand. no much grade difference but a bit less pully/throwy, might suit some folks. especially those with an amputated left leg, as it doesn't use it as all.

also, has anyone got any beta on the Pinch problem - banks did this by taping his left toe up and sticking it in the low-left starting slot, which i'm understandably not keen for. i can hit the sidepull jug by going with right foot on the Rh hold on the press kneeler break, but not in any kind of control.

[Jaspersharpe]

maybe this will throw a spanner in the works - theres a sequence for kudos hardway that takes the backhand hold, puts right heel on the righthand end of the jug rail, drops the toe into a heel-toe, then bounces up the intermediates to the "jug" with left hand. no much grade difference but a bit less pully/throwy, might suit some folks. especially those with an amputated left leg, as it doesn't use it as all.

This is how Scouse was getting very close to doing it on Wednesday although he nearly dislocated his right knee in the process. Yeah I realise that this does chuck a bit of a spanner in the works as far as just eliminating the rest of the rail is concerned but I was just going to ignore this fact. 

also, has anyone got any beta on the Pinch problem - banks did this by taping his left toe up and sticking it in the low-left starting slot, which i'm understandably not keen for. i can hit the sidepull jug by going with right foot on the Rh hold on the press kneeler break, but not in any kind of control.

We were trying to stand in that slot but it's really frustrating as your foot keeps popping out just when you think you've got some weight on it. I'm pretty sure this way will go as one time out of about 15 my foot stayed on for a few seconds and I was able to muster a bit of a throw at the jug before it popped. Toe taping doesn't sound like an option to me.