[dave]

- I think Tsunami should remain eliminate at 8a and the same problem using any holds / sequence should be "easy Tsunami" in the typical Peak nomenclature or maybe "King Wave" at 7c+

That makes sense to me. maybe "Tsunamesque"?

[Bonjoy]

Tsunamish 

[dave]

Tsunamiod

[Bonjoy]

True-nami
Skew-nami
Shrew-nami
Pepperami
Origami
Wasabi sabi
Oliver's Army???

[dave]

You-and-who's-army?

[Bonjoy]

Mr-Magoo-nami

[Jaspersharpe]

[Andy B]

Kudos/ Hotfun (ss) easy way, and all the traverses into Kudos easy, should be worth including as lines of least resistance. (Although some people find Kudos Easy the harder of the two methods.)

[(woz)]

So am I right in thinking all link ups have to finish up kudos hard way? What sequence do you use for this; is it down onto jug rail, then back up?
I was trying it traversing straight into kudos easy way i.e. traverse till LH kudos sidepull, then RH higher sidepull then LH jug.

Edit: Andy just posted re: easy sequence - Beta request remains...

[andy_e]

Punani?

[abarro81]

I think bigger splash direct is 7b rather than 7b+.. What's kudos easy SS? (Is hotfun another name for kudos?) Also, has anyone with big feet managed to put in the heel-toe on BSD kneeling/tsunami? My 10.5 pinks seemed rather unlikely to go in when I had a look the other week.. For pointless link-ups how about the sitstart to the traverse too..?

[Andy Harris]

All traverses don't have to finish up Kudos hard way (you can obviously do what you want) but again this was always the harder of the 2 and the more desired. Realistically you could knock off half to a grade for these alternatives. It's actually a very hard flag to drop down to the jug especially when linking in to other problems.

Kudos was the name of the original boulder problem done to the break and traversing off right and then climbing & jumping down. I believe it was done by Chris Gore. Ben Moon then superceeded this by climbing the full route and calling it hot fun. It was orignally given E7 or E8 7a as the 1st move off said smear and no jug was much harder than now. Now it is E7 6C or French 8a.

What about Punjabi?

Sequence to drop to jugs is both hands on long edges, LF to Kudos jug, big rock over or Egyptian to get Kudos sidepull with LH. Then either:
1. left foot to furthest part of jug, enormous flag, grunt, puff and reach to jug with RH (hardest)
2. LF to futhest part of jug, RF to spike below jug, LF off, grunt, puff and reach jug with RH (not as hard)

Clearly you can either climb down to jug then go up either variant or climb directly into easier finish.

I sincerely hope your 8a scorecards will not be awash with all this shenanigans 

[(woz)]

Cheers for the beta 

I sincerely hope your 8a scorecards will not be awash with all this shenanigans 

I hope you were joking with this. Who gives a fuck what people have on their scorecards? Not that I want to open up the 8aworms again...

[dave]

alright peeps

had a good session last night at rubicon, on the drive home got thinking about some other "worthwhile" linkups/problems and what the grades might be:

Kudos Traverse there and back?

Kudos sitter into Kudos traverse (or Bigger Tail - easiest way up the wall from sitter to top break?)?

Start on bigger tail rail then footless the rest of kudos traverse?

Theres also apparently a mick adams problem, starting right hand on the BSD sidepull and left on something (chalked pinchy undercut?) then slap left into the sidepull jug on the pinch.

also, we eyed the potential of doing the press eliminating the crimp, by going of the slopey intermediate instead - this looks good!


What a fucking great bit of crag.

[(woz)]

Kudos Traverse there and back?

Wasn't this on the Harris topo at 7c?

Kudos sitter into Kudos traverse (or Bigger Tail - easiest way up the wall from sitter to top break?)?

Into BT sounds good. 7b+? Will defo give that a go next time.

What a fucking great bit of crag.

word.

[Andy B]

Theres also apparently a mick adams problem, starting right hand on the BSD sidepull and left on something (chalked pinchy undercut?) then slap left into the sidepull jug on the pinch.

I think Mick/Mike started this as for Tsunami/ left press, and used "The Pinch" hold for the left hand rather than the Bigger Splash Direct undercut.

Kudos Traverse there and back?

Wasn't this on the Harris topo at 7c?

I can see the dollar signs in Dave's eyes already.

[Kingy]

Heyup, yeah these links are all great training and worthwhile once you have ticked the obvious classics. I'm sure Andy will clarify but to get the full tick of Kudos reverse, you have to down climb to both hands on the starting jug rail. I was trying this and its fricking desparate, even with a left heel on the rail. In fact the whole reverse traverse is one long left heel hook, so much so that I strained my left hamstring quite badly. The 'dropdown move' onto the bigger tail rail is bloody hard as well, a full-on power grunt of a move! To add to it all, the easiest problem to get to the start to work it all is the Press(!) as its starts off pretty high. All in all the reverse is a fairly tough proposition I'd say for 7b+ never mind linking it into the full traverse. I reckon the Press into the traverse reverse has to warrant 7c so there's another tick to go for. Enjoy!

[dave]

Kudos Traverse there and back?

Wasn't this on the Harris topo at 7c?

I can see the dollar signs in Dave's eyes already.

A lot of things used to be 7c on that topo, kudos and the press for example. Then I did them.

Ted, I put the moves together yesterday for the reverse of the traverse, I found dropping down onto the kudos starting jugs pretty straightforward, infact all of it was straightforward once you've sorted out someone to give you a man-up to the press jug. I didn't use any left heels, i suspect you may have been using some wack beta is a gent of your calibre found it desperate.

[Kingy]

Oh maybe an reappraisal is called for, cool that its maybe not too hard after all. i do so little downclimbing that it always feels a somewhat alien experience!

[Andy B]

all of it was straightforward once you've sorted out someone to give you a man-up to the press jug.

I knew you appreciated that ballet lift really

[Kingy]

man-up to the press jug.

I made a primitive ladder to start this bit, ie a plank with some bits of wood nailled to it. Unfortunately it proved to be about English 6c to get stood up on the thing so I sacked it off. Amazing the things you'll do when you have too much time on your hands. What you really need is something like the cragx ladder.

[dave]

you could try getting massing ramblers to form a human pyramid. if they can do it on bikes, all the better.

[Jaspersharpe]

OK I'm confused. Is the sitter to Kudos (hard way) what Andy is calling "Hot Fun SS (hard way) 7C"?

If so, I think I did this yesterday but just wanted to check I did it correctly. I started LH undercut crozzled pocket thing RH pinchy flat edge, feet on low little edges. RH to high wobbly undercut which looks like it will explode soon. Step LF through to good small edge, LH jug, match and then do Kudos by getting RH on the good crimp and rocking over, LF in the jug to reach nonchalantly grab for the flakes.

I was going by Ru's guide and reckoned 7B+ was fair for this sequence in comparison to 7B for the stand up and 7B for BSD stand up. Is this right? 

Also The Press felt desperate in comparison but this was because it was absolutely fucking boiling and the starting holds felt like they had been smeared with Flora.

What a fucking great bit of crag.

So true.

[dave]

yeah that sounds right, good tick. i like the sound of using that undercut - we tried using that as a backhand last year which felt good but would probably explode your shoulder or chest cartilage if you tried to move from it.



i've been tryin just going off the low undercut to the jugs, but if i hold it in a comfy fashion its shit and a nails move, but if i work fingers into the righthand end (which aught to make it a good hold) its too painful to weight it.

[Jaspersharpe]

Cool, if Crimpolene Agnes Hornblower says 7C then that's good enough for me. 

I tried going straight for the jugs to start with but it seemed that little bit too far. Then tried using the sidepull spike thing just below them but this seemed that little bit too hard. The undercut way is easier but it's worryingly loose and could do with fixing really. Know what you mean about the start undercut. I ended up working first 3 fingers into it as the "comfy" way was actually ripping the skin of my middle tip. It was a bit painful on the ring finger but nothing some old fashioned teeth gritting couldn't overcome. I was, however a bit pissed off to have to stuff my fingers back into the undercut and do the whole thing again having fallen off the last move like a twat. I'm starting to think this might be my signature move.