[Jayefuu]

Any progress on them Tom? I need to go back for the low sloper problem above the cave, wasn't feeling it Monday.

[tomtom]

Any progress on them Tom? I need to go back for the low sloper problem above the cave, wasn't feeling it Monday.

I've a grudge to settle with the 7A+ on the side of the Hueco bloc. Desperately close on Wednesday morning.. slapped the top twice and didnt hold it, modified my RH grip and over slapped... ie got my palm over the top and couldnt hold. Then ran out of skin. Probably back tomorrow AM...

[r-man]

Sounds close! Good luck tomorrow.

Here's a little vid of a couple from the other day. This area is a little cluster shortly before the trig point area (if coming from the north). On the first boulder (the Bottomless Git boulder) there are 6A+ and 7B sitters on the other side, a 7A to the right of the vid problem (start matched on the vid heel hold) and a 6B+ pulling up right the arete from low. All lowball, but good value.

There's a big roof just near this boulder too - this is The Lady's Not For Gurning, 7B, coming out from squatting on the plinth. Below the big roof is the Slopey Top boulder, which has a couple of 7A sitters on the left (the footblock is in) and easier sitters to the right.

A little downhill is the Shelfish boulder, shown at the end of the video. And further on and downhill there's a lowball roof with various short but fierce possibilities - all still projects.

[tomtom]

No skin no cigar. Ape hour is what I'm trying, and I've just noticed a vid of a chap doing it a different way:



I've pulled on like this and thought it felt a.too easy and b. the guide tells you no jugs on the right (where the heel is here..). I'm guessing the regular (correct?) way is using the crimp, the sidepull work feet up on the shitty smears and lay one on for the top.. That feels 7A+ (hard) for me (having slapped and not held the top) but its not my ideal problem type...

Any clarification from the Blackstone massive?

[r-man]

Never tried that method, but like you say, no jugs on the right.

It's a one mover for me - LH on lowest sidepull, left foot on a smear, go for the top.

@25sec in GCW's vid:

[GCW]

Looks like cheating to me.
R-Man's method is the one, fair at the grade.

[tomtom]

Thanks Gents - thought so...

My methods a kind of hybrid - RH crimp, LH high side pull - then LF on the low smear - pull on, RF on higher right smear and push off that for the top. Completely ran out of skin on it today (put a tip and thumb through). I think its an interesting morph one this, as if I do as you do Rman, then I'm a wee bit too bunched and I get pushed off...

[Jayefuu]

Think I'm heading there tomorrow Tom. I looked at Ape Hour when I was there on monday but decided I was running low by the time I got to there and wasn't sure what was/wasn't in. Will have to give it a go now I've seen the vid!

(By the way, you can pause the video, right click and "copy video URL at current time" for linking to the right place)

EDIT: Oh damnit UKB automatically changes links into embedded videos

[tomtom]

Think I'm heading there tomorrow Tom. I looked at Ape Hour when I was there on monday but decided I was running low by the time I got to there and wasn't sure what was/wasn't in. Will have to give it a go now I've seen the vid!

(By the way, you can pause the video, right click and "copy video URL at current time" for linking to the right place)

EDIT: Oh damnit UKB automatically changes links into embedded videos

You'll probably flash it James - I seem to be really weak at these face on body tension moves.. it doesnt help being warm though..

[Chriswo770]

Deleted my vid (link above) to stop incorrect beta & future ticks using this method. I was always 50/50 about the heel as the flake sits so close/feeds to the right arete, but I bumped into a more experienced climber up there once who stated "it's all over when you get your foot on there", and the beta was born. Good problem, not my particular style, a skin eater and a source of much frustration in the past. Thinking about it though, I'm quite happy I'll have to fight with it again...

Cheers gents

[GCW]

Very altruistic, chapeau to you. 

[tomtom]

Deleted my vid (link above) to stop incorrect beta & future ticks using this method. I was always 50/50 about the heel as the flake sits so close/feeds to the right arete, but I bumped into a more experienced climber up there once who stated "it's all over when you get your foot on there", and the beta was born. Good problem, not my particular style, a skin eater and a source of much frustration in the past. Thinking about it though, I'm quite happy I'll have to fight with it again...

Cheers gents

As GCW said very altruistic.. Its still a nice problem with the heel on - and theres another eliminate from the low side pull and one of the jugs out to the right in the mid 6's... Like you, its really not my kind of problem which makes me want to go back and get it nailed!! Frustrating indeed

[Jayefuu]

Ape Hour: Managed to pull on, but not move very far off it. Not one for direct sun though 

Is the guide still being managed/updated? I went over the the back edge and problem 9 (only one from 9-13 marked on photo) is marked in the wrong place and didn't feel like a 5! The description's something like "Sit start and struggle to the runnel".

[GCW]

I'm hoping my old guide will be superseded soon.

[Jayefuu]

I'm hoping my old guide will be superseded soon.

Oh? Someone working on a new one? Is it close enough to Huddersfield to fall under Kirklees Climbing?

[Grubes]

I think the BMC lancs guide is due out soonish? Is that what you mean?

[rginns]

I think the BMC lancs guide is due out soonish? Is that what you mean?

BMC is out soonish, hopefully early next year.

There could be other stuff in the pipeline though, I couldn't comment...
Very cloak and daggers

[tomtom]

now a BMC Lanks guide would be good

[r-man]

What GCW and rginns are hinting at is that I'm working on a guide - I think I have already mentioned this in the thread, though I'm also helping with the bouldering in the BMC's guide, which may have caused confusion.

The BMC guide won't cover everything - I think there are space restrictions, though I've done my best to get as much as possible in there (GCW and rginns are involved too).

My guide will be as comprehensive as I can make it, and will cover most of Lancashire bouldering. I'm really excited about the area around Blackstone at the moment - there are some fantastic moorland crags that very few people know about.

[Chriswo770]

"there are some fantastic moorland crags that very few people know about."

Now I'm just drooling : )

[tomtom]

Can we have a special RockFax (tm) style icon for super low arse dragging sit starts?

Nice one R-Man - holla if you want a hand proof reading etc..

[r-man]

"there are some fantastic moorland crags that very few people know about."

Now I'm just drooling : )

Happy to show you round if you want - I need to get some action photos at the moment, and I'm trying to make the most of the weather.

Same goes for anyone. I can get out most mid-week afternoons/evenings and all day on the weekends. I still need photos of Cow's Mouth and Dove Lowe Stones in particular, though I have stuff to check at other venues so I'd be happy to give the tour.

Can we have a special RockFax (tm) style icon for super low arse dragging sit starts?

Nice one R-Man - holla if you want a hand proof reading etc..

Thanks, tomtom! I might take you up on that!

[Grubes]

A tour would be awesome.
other than blackstones I have not climbed in Lancs.

Would offer to proof read but anyone who has read anything I have ever written would know I would be offering no help at all.

[r-man]

Alright then, anyone keen to head out this week sometime? Or next week?

[tomtom]

Too hot At the moment but I'm about for the next few weeks midweek..