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Blackstones (Read 83252 times)

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#175 Re: Blackstone Edge
October 05, 2012, 10:52:09 am
I've walked over that way a few times when it's windy, it's very exposed.  The waves get up really high on Green Withens reservoir, I've seen people wind surfing on there a couple of times.
« Last Edit: October 05, 2012, 10:57:12 am by GCW »

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#176 Re: Blackstones
October 05, 2012, 11:58:35 am
I also did this problem on the RH side (not in the topo) from a sit. Was good value c.6B maybe a wee bit more. There was also a big block with JB carved into it just to the right of this, which had a few nice probs in the 5's...



I've got that down as 6A from sitting - it's possible my grades are wonky.
Also, from the low block, going up the left arete - 5
And from the low block, no arete - 6B.

To the left is a low scoop which yields to an awesome sitstart rockover mantel (yes, there is such a thing!) - 7A/ungradeable.

And a little way to the right, at the end of this sector, is a block with two slabby walls either side of an arete, and a low shelf that you stand up on. All problems so far use aretes and are 6A-6C+. The problems on the right wall are harder from a standing start matched on the undercut - I have the centre marked as a project. And the fingery left wall.

There's a lot of stuff been done/ repeated since that old topo.  Really needs an update.

I'm working on it. Still a few rocks to climb, but I'm looking at around twenty pages of problems right now.
« Last Edit: October 05, 2012, 12:05:44 pm by r-man »

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#177 Re: Blackstones
October 05, 2012, 12:00:08 pm
Great.  If you want my InDesign files, let me know.

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#178 Re: Blackstones
January 04, 2013, 08:24:04 am

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#179 Re: Blackstones
January 04, 2013, 09:30:21 am
thanks for the topo.
Just realised how close this is to me got no excuse not to go now

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#180 Re: Blackstones
January 04, 2013, 09:47:11 am
thanks for the topo.
Just realised how close this is to me got no excuse not to go now

Damn right... apart from the drizzle ;) Its a cool spot Grubes, though needs the right conditions.

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#181 Re: Blackstones
July 05, 2013, 12:46:23 pm
Just trying to download the topo but getting a 404 error.
Has this been taken off?

if anyone could e-mail/link me a copy that would be awesome hoping to go at 2.30 today
« Last Edit: July 05, 2013, 01:00:56 pm by Grubes »

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#182 Re: Blackstones
July 05, 2013, 02:25:19 pm
PM me your e-mail address.

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#183 Re: Blackstones
July 05, 2013, 02:29:07 pm
Thanks, Robin has sorted me out

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#184 Re: Blackstones
July 05, 2013, 02:31:00 pm
I'll avoid the "f'narr f'narr"....... 

The wiki seems to have gone wonky- it won't accept any pdf uploads, and gives a 404 error if you try to access any uploaded PDFs.

Bubbs?

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#185 Re: Blackstones
July 05, 2013, 10:08:24 pm
bubba's gone GCW  :wavecry: see his signature

Btw had a great evening in perfect weather light breeze enough to clear the midges but cool enough for great friction.

I got quite a bit of footage will cut it together
« Last Edit: July 05, 2013, 10:17:03 pm by Grubes »

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#186 Re: Blackstones
July 05, 2013, 10:31:19 pm
Glad to hear you had fun. Moorland grit's great for summer - good conditions and no biters. I had a top day in August last year.

Just heard from John Wilson that he did five new 7a's at the far end of Blackstone today - did you see him whilst you were there?

Looking forward to your footage. Which reminds me, here's a couple from last year that don't think I've posted before.




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#187 Re: Blackstones
July 05, 2013, 10:48:32 pm
No didn't see him we walked up from J22 off the M62 so he probably was heading off as we were arriving. We only had a couple of hour blast.
Started on Heuco block and then tried an off width route ended up at robins dyno. Go nowhere near but the wall to the left was great.

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#188 Blackstones
July 06, 2013, 10:33:13 am
Glad to hear you had fun. Moorland grit's great for summer - good conditions and no biters. I had a top day in August last year.

Just heard from John Wilson that he did five new 7a's at the far end of Blackstone today - did you see him whilst you were there?


Hi Robin, was that at the motorway end (I suspect that's the normal far end!)?
I need to get back up there somemtime to get that 7 on the Hueco bloc done.. Though it might be a bit hot in the coming few days..
T

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#189 Re: Blackstones
July 06, 2013, 12:26:09 pm
Yep, that's at the motorway end. There's an attractive little roof that I've eyed up in the past. Most of John's problems take lines through this. From what I remember, they are all steep on big holds, and look very good. He's still undecided about grades, so if you do any, please let me know (I'm working on a guide).

1 Luna 7A
Start on the low left block, then reach from undercuts to crimps and jump for the lip.

2 Kraken 6C/7A
From the shelf at the back, pull through the crack.

3 Leviathan Left 6C/7A
Pull round the right-hand roof (no crack) and transfer to the left-hand roof. Follow this to its end.

4 Leviathan Right 7A
Pull through the right-hand roof, without using the crack.

On a higher level, there is also a low undercut wall, with a big crack in the middle. John did a problem on the right side of this.

Step Into The Light 6C/7A
Start from the break and fight past slopers to the top.

A little to the right is a low prow.

The Butcher 6B+
Sitstart the low prow.



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#190 Re: Blackstones
July 06, 2013, 12:31:40 pm
Cheers Robin, might head up there some time this week coming on the way back from my Manc <> Hull commute..

Any chance of picking this roof out on google maps and throwing a link back this way? Edit - I've just had a look and its hard to figure out what is what!!!

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#191 Re: Blackstones
July 06, 2013, 01:09:47 pm
Fairly easy to find. It's the furthest south cluster of rock. The roof is quite obvious, one long prow with a shorter roof on its right and a crack splitting the two sides.

Here's the map link, can't pin the exact block, but you'll soon see it.


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#192 Re: Blackstones
July 07, 2013, 11:21:28 pm
John has had a rethink about grades, and asked me to change them on here. Regardless of difficulty, these look like very good problems, and I'm keen to check them out sometime this week. Anyway, these are the revised grades...

1 Luna 6C
Start on the low left block, then reach from undercuts to crimps and jump for the lip.

2 Kraken 6B+
From the shelf at the back, pull through the crack.

3 Leviathan Left 6C
Pull round the right-hand roof (no crack) and transfer to the left-hand roof. Follow this to its end.

4 Leviathan Right 6C
Pull through the right-hand roof, without using the crack.

On a higher level, there is also a low undercut wall, with a big crack in the middle. John did a problem on the right side of this.

Step Into The Light 6B+
Start from the break and fight past slopers to the top.

A little to the right is a low prow.

The Butcher 6B
Sitstart the low prow.

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#193 Re: Blackstones
July 08, 2013, 08:57:45 am
I'm going to go check it out today. Grubes went without me while I was on holiday so am keen to see if his excitement about it was justified :D Looks really good in the guide! Will definitely hunt for the roof r-man talks of.

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#194 Re: Blackstones
July 09, 2013, 07:42:00 am
Yup! Nice spot! Definitely worth the walk-in.

I did Leviathon R, Leviathon L, Kraken, Luna and Butcher and the revised grades above seem about right to me. Except perhaps that I definitely found Leviathan left much easier than Leviathan right.

I couldn't manage a picture as the sun was directly behind the roof.

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#195 Re: Blackstones
July 09, 2013, 08:10:44 am
I think it's great that people are getting up there. I look forward to a new guide.

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#196 Blackstones
July 09, 2013, 08:44:42 am
Cool, I'll try and get up there Wednesday morning...

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#197 Blackstones
July 10, 2013, 10:41:16 am
Where's this there roof then.. How far along from Hueco bloc is it? I've walked quite a way and can't see a thing like a roof! ESP as it should have James chalk on it... Nice up here today. 20 deg and pleasant breeze.

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#198 Blackstones
July 10, 2013, 11:30:11 am
Found it.. I think

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#199 Re: Blackstones
July 10, 2013, 12:28:17 pm
That's the one!

I was up yesterday evening, didn't get round to the roof - as usual got distracted by more boulders I hadn't tried before. Lowballs, but good fun. Lovely sunset - very pretty with all the wild cotton out at the moment.

 

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