I was talking to a mate about this issue and I mentioned a certain climber. Name not to be divulged here. I remember hearing a climber in a video or possibly reading an article interviewing a climber. Now my memory is crap so I am not sure where. But it could have been in a Fontainebleue bouldering video- I am sure this boulderer claimed all he was interested in was climbing at the absolute limit and had no sponsors and did not compete so he was happy to admit his habits.
Anyone know the video/source/climber? I could have dreamt it I guess. I have searched online for any other related discussion of this boulderer and there is nothing. I plan to watch both my font videos (although the player is in the attic gathering dust).
PM me if you can help