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unreapeated climbs (Read 27383 times)

Idol eyes

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unreapeated climbs
August 06, 2006, 02:23:29 pm
2nd ascents, are there any you can think of on gritstone? there are one or two i can think of, but am curious as to others that have not been reapeated, only counting ascents over 5 years old are;
Warm Love                       E7 7B/7A
Dana Awen                      E7 7A?/E6 6C
These are the only two i can think of!

grimer

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#1 Re: unreapeated climbs
August 07, 2006, 10:46:59 am
did ross not do dana awen? ground up? i could be wong. i could be wight. i could be back i could be write

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#2 Re: unreapeated climbs
August 07, 2006, 10:51:58 am
Has Ultimate Sculpture been repeated. From the perspective of a total punter that looks very hard. Is also looks like one of the best lines on grit.

Idol eyes

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#3 Re: unreapeated climbs
August 07, 2006, 12:47:42 pm
Er, do not know about D.A., It is very ground upable, however it has been out of condition since 1999, so not sure. will be into the second ascent myself this season comming. been up on the crux of U.S. and now have beta for the crux, this has not been repeated, and a pebble is missing. there must be others...
What about boulder problems?

Idol eyes

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#4 Re: unreapeated climbs
August 07, 2006, 12:55:06 pm
The Grand Potato, Baslow, Robin Barker E7 6B/C?
Poppers?
Marbellous, Stanage, E8/9 7A. (the original way)

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#5 Re: unreapeated climbs
August 07, 2006, 12:56:02 pm
Wasn't TGP done by Polish Dave at least?

Idol eyes

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#6 Re: unreapeated climbs
August 07, 2006, 01:02:05 pm
Possible,.
Is that Jude? need to talk to you! message me your number, am out of the country and need to catch up on somthing important.
Hope you and yours are well...

Scouse D

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#7 Re: unreapeated climbs
August 07, 2006, 01:10:08 pm
Grand potato was deffo done by polish dave and Ross, both ground up.

Idol eyes

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#8 Re: unreapeated climbs
August 07, 2006, 01:21:06 pm
Is Ross from the NE?
try and find out about Dana Awen, this has alot of meaning, and i would like to buy the guy a drink...
Did Ian Vickers do Savage Earth, Widdop?
has Resev dogs been repeated?

Scouse D

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#9 Re: unreapeated climbs
August 07, 2006, 01:33:29 pm
He's working in the NE now but has been Sheff-centric for many years <moderator edit>. I'm sure you know him Pat, his sister Rae is also well fierce. Will hang fire on discussing him as he ain't too keen on publicity.
« Last Edit: August 09, 2006, 04:47:54 pm by dave »

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#10 Re: unreapeated climbs
August 07, 2006, 01:51:32 pm
has Resev dogs been repeated?

Nope, not since the hold broke.

Where's Dana Awen and how did it come by its name?

dave

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#11 Re: unreapeated climbs
August 07, 2006, 05:48:25 pm
has Resev dogs been repeated?

Nope, not since the hold broke.


its been repeated in the conventional sense though, cos at least barker and dunne have done it. I don't think vickers ever did savage earth, i thought he went for the direct start (widdop wall) and had to traverase off the break with a split tip - which frankly looks a nightmare. widdop wall has been tried though and has seen a deckout from the upper wall  :o

has anyone repeated irish's thing at burbage south, or even that miles' route faggot saliva or whatever it was called? speaking of miles what about that thing at moorside? also did anyone ever get on blind vision or that arran route at curbar? even though they do look shit. and then theres that bransby roof by paralogism.

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#12 Re: unreapeated climbs
August 07, 2006, 06:13:50 pm
Ah, Superstition E8 7A, Burbage north, Homeless is inside the 5 year mark, as is Parrellelogram, so no go there. so now im thinking, Daz Ultra, and Sweet Sixteen at Burbage south, care of Darren Thomas (wasted talent, he only ever climbed ar Burbage, the foundry and a mythical crag near Rotherham) Ohh, Childs Play B.S.
Dana Awen, the naming of this route lies in a kind of fusion of Galic, Old English, Welsh and has Druidic references. Was kind of inspired by the dawes name Kluza Klien, a scientific reference. This is the meaning without unraveling to much,
Dana, The earth godess.
Awen, The gift of inspiration, found upon the summit of a tor.
this was the basic meaning, however the other references all seem to fit, and at the time, i was well into certain things that lead me to that route, I think its a lovely route and the name is perfect...

grimer

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#13 Re: unreapeated climbs
August 07, 2006, 07:11:21 pm
my route northern comfort above valkyrie has never been repeated, and it's not shit

Idol eyes

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#14 Re: unreapeated climbs
August 07, 2006, 07:46:55 pm
Yep, thats another. could this be harder for people shorter than you G? oh my, that even includes me...
how are you? still with the BMC, (this sounds like a rap, that is crap, Peace... patagonia fleece, a video release by reece...) :off:

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#15 Re: unreapeated climbs
August 07, 2006, 08:08:22 pm
Homeless is inside the 5 year mark, as is Parrellelogram, so no go there.

sozard, i missed the 5 year thing.

lets not forget that higginson thing below elergy. that must be over 5 years old. and what about nik's mental arete thing at rivelin? my guide says that was 1999.

Idol eyes

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#16 Re: unreapeated climbs
August 07, 2006, 08:21:17 pm
Hell yeah, keep um comming, this is what i call entertainment.
Good list developing here, must be a Nadin route somewhere.
Boulder problems, there must be one...

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#17 Re: unreapeated climbs
August 07, 2006, 08:21:54 pm
cypher at slipstones. un repeated

Aussiegav

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#18 Re: unreapeated climbs
August 07, 2006, 08:23:06 pm
monk life, another....

dave

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#19 Re: unreapeated climbs
August 07, 2006, 08:24:44 pm
ain't clifford done cypher?

earl's done monk life innit?

Aussiegav

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#20 Re: unreapeated climbs
August 07, 2006, 08:32:58 pm
not to my knowledge on cypher.....
heard he was trying but not close. but hey i can be wrong...

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#21 Re: unreapeated climbs
August 07, 2006, 08:33:19 pm
I thought Dunning had repeated Cypher, and both Earl and Gaskins have repeated Monks life.  Have either of Malc Smith's traverses in the county been repeated?  (Lothorian?)

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#22 Re: unreapeated climbs
August 07, 2006, 08:44:58 pm
i heard of such a "CLAIM" by dunning. but they're are some doubters out there. can anyone clarify

moose

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#23 Re: unreapeated climbs
August 08, 2006, 10:55:08 am
Steve Dunning's repeat of Cypher was reported at the time on climbonline (the NE England climbing news site), Steve also cited it as a V13 benchmark comparison when he graded High Fidelity at Caley.  More recently he's been seen trying the Arch project....

Monk Life was repeated by Andy Earl and Gaskins.  Over the winter I saw Earl working Cypher and one of the long "Kyloe in" traverses - he got bloody close to the latter whilst I was there (and quite vocal when he twice randomly came off looking like he had cracked it!).  According to crag gossip Earl more recently got very close in a single session to one of Gaskins' Lakes problems - I think it was Kaizen (the phrase "unrepeated V14" rings a bell... does that fit?).

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#24 Re: unreapeated climbs
August 08, 2006, 11:22:01 am
Earl and gaskins have done monke life.

 

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