[irish si]

buzz caner is amazing, someone should do this.  Myself and dan honeyman tried this 4 years ago or so, you have to do a one arm pullup on a slopey pocket, very unusual grit climb. prob e8

[a dense loner]

it is one and the same guy uptown. people don't always need to stay where they're born

see immigration thread for more info

[Shy Yorkshireman]

Does been able to split on the crag from your parents garden count as local? Not that you would want to spit at such a fine crag. But i could! Don't think any of my futuristic lines on grit have been repeated just goes to show how great I was and how shit I am now, either that or they have all been claimed back by the bracken and no one can find them. Apart from shipmans surgery at thorn which done by Jordan a few weeks ago he reckoned e6 6b but i prefer the e7 6a sorry Jordan. There are loads of great routes put up by the Bransby, Parry and some bloke called Vickers at Brimham which will never get repeated either, come to think of it not of the bransbys will as they are all desperate shuffles up rounded death. and probably under graded as well. Great names though, pigeon, mars bar, petal flowering, I made the last one up but you get the picture. Come to think about this there are loads in yorkshire Tetlers charm without the side runner, Remember when Tetler was good, god I'm getting old. I can think of loads but am too lazy to tell you all now. I'm off outside, but only to drink coffee in the garden! Sod climbing have you seen how hot it is. roll on winter. javascript:void(0);

[Johnny Brown]

Genius. That's the kind of shit I visit UKB for.

[Shy Yorkshireman]

Hey brown fancy drinking coffee in the back garden?

OK here are a few more.

Reservoir has not been done since the pebble came off. But Robin said he didn't use it, he just boned the bit it was around! cos he was a hero! well mine anyway.

Jordan fell off widdop wall, i think, upps!

Loaded, nails

They are  the big one's, anyroad there are loads in Yorkshire buzz caner should get done it's ace, shame about the name though. Charlotte gray, some hero's finish to bird song, bet thats not been done. Loads of stuff in quarry's gravel Pitts and peoples back gardens all over the land awaiting rediscovering, gardening, cleaning, climbing, then left to go back to what they are, dirty and not that great! Apart from mine, which are all classics and should be kept clean and brushed by a new government initiative.and at a huge cost to the tax paying public of this great island of ours. 

That should keep ya busy.

[El Mocho]

The biggest Grit second ascent must be Birdie (unless the Waddy or some such has done this) E7 5c,6a,5c,6a

Ray Kay "we were so stoned we couldn't remember anything about it so I had to climb it again" talking about another of his routes, the most undergraded E4 in the UK Bobok

You will have to check with Johnny B on the Grit content of Cilan Main

p.s. in reply to Shy Yorkshireman another classic missed from your list from that era is the stunningly well named Quack

[andy popp]

Back to the Peak. What about MaDMAn at Wimberry. I went on it years ago and knew instantly I never wanted to do it. If that's E7 then I've never done any.

[Paz]

Just thought I'd save people the trouble:

"MaDMAn E7 6b Wimberry Solo. This subtly titled Dave Pegg route takes the huge blunt arete right of Trident to very sloping notch where it goes left and joins Trident. Thin, exposed and relying on a lot of pebble moves. Throw in a rest stance to get completely psyched out on and you have a full-on top-end grit E7 experience - utter terror! Recently lost pebbles (only one left now!) and possibly E8. Unrepeated? "

http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/4755/climbing/gritlist/grit_e7.html

[webbo]

Also don't think that Earthboots has had a repeat yet has it (although Scut should have done it)?

I'm sure there's quite a few unrepeated routes at various obscure venues, I imagine unrepeated boulder problems are rarer as they are easier to try (less rope and stuff). Although I have no science to back that up...

If this is true about Earthboots then it's well overdue. Problem wise 'Phoenix wall' hasn't had attention yet - obscure venue I know but slab classics don't come much better than this...

andy swann did phoenix at easter.

[uptown]

Also don't think that Earthboots has had a repeat yet has it (although Scut should have done it)?

I'm sure there's quite a few unrepeated routes at various obscure venues, I imagine unrepeated boulder problems are rarer as they are easier to try (less rope and stuff). Although I have no science to back that up...

If this is true about Earthboots then it's well overdue. Problem wise 'Phoenix wall' hasn't had attention yet - obscure venue I know but slab classics don't come much better than this...

andy swann did phoenix at easter.

Did he agree with the 'slab classic' notion, or comment on difficulty?

[webbo]

i did'nt ask him how hard he thought it was.he was just saying he'd been to panorama crag and what a good problem it was.
we were visiting brimham obscuria and white houses at the time,so were discusing the various hidden delights.

[Nibile]

i dont know if im off topic, if we are only dealing with grit, and dont want to name drop but:

yesterday night i was searching for a picture in an old grimper magazine that my french girlfriend of many years ago gave to me when i went to visit her in aix an provence, ahh memories...
sorry...
anyway there was another ben moon interview, and they said that sea of tranquillity at per trwin had not been repeated, and liquid amber had been done only by moffatt and moon. (1996)

what do you know?

[Ru]

Our very own Buoux 8c repeated Liquid Amber, but I don't think Sea of Tranquility has had a 2nd ascent.  There are rumours of something important falling off it hold-wise.

[Nibile]

the nickname isnt stolen, so.

[Doylo]

Our very own Buoux 8c repeated Liquid Amber, but I don't think Sea of Tranquility has had a 2nd ascent.  There are rumours of something important falling off it hold-wise.

In the guide its states that Neil Carson repeated it but i think this is wrong. Don't know if anythings fallen off it. Steve Mc did it in two halfs last year (and also got a bathang after the crux ) but never got round to going back.

[Pantontino]

In the guide its states that Neil Carson repeated it but i think this is wrong.

You thought right.

[Paz]

Does anyone know if Masters of the Universe has been repeated?

[slackline]

Does anyone know if Masters of the Universe has been repeated?

I don't 

[unclesomebody]

Our very own Buoux 8c repeated Liquid Amber, but I don't think Sea of Tranquility has had a 2nd ascent.  There are rumours of something important falling off it hold-wise.

In the guide its states that Neil Carson repeated it but i think this is wrong. Don't know if anythings fallen off it. Steve Mc did it in two halfs last year (and also got a bathang after the crux ) but never got round to going back.

Steve Mac didn't climb the same line as Mr Moon. As far as I'm aware, nobody has done it the way Ben did.

[Somebody's Fool]

Does anyone know if Masters of the Universe has been repeated?

Had a look at this from the ground the other day.  It looked well fierce, but then again everything on the Cioch does.  The bolts you start from are probably well past their best an' all.  I imagine it's one of them where unless it's the first ascent you probably wouldn't bother...
Has anyone done Groovemarionation (spelling?) the supposed E4 that goes direct through Silent Spring?  Looks horrific.

[Paz]

If I'm reading the hint right then maybe it has been done.

Don't you start from the same place as Offspring then just climb the arete?  Mate's have told me that there are OK wires to start from, but it's easier to belay from the ground.

- it's not on UKC/ rockfax.  This isn't because it got incorporated into Captain Invincible is it because it finishes up Offspring?  There's a route that soemone other than the Myles / Barker mutual repeater tag team should get to.   

[irish si]

Does anyone know if Masters of the Universe has been repeated?

leo did it when he was a youth and thought it was about E4/5 or so he once told me.

[Johnny Brown]

Has anyone done Groovemarionation (spelling?) the supposed E4 that goes direct through Silent Spring?

Have aided up the line, the bolts are knacked but the climbing doesn't look too hard. Its very green though, and the start position has to be very arbitrary. Good project up to the left, was cleaned last? winter.

Does anyone know if Masters of the Universe has been repeated?
Don't you start from the same place as Offspring then just climb the arete?  Mate's have told me that there are OK wires to start from, but it's easier to belay from the ground.

Offspring starts from the big break on the arete, where slient spring traverses in. Reaching this would represent the end of the difficulties on Masters. Have aided this one as well (solo! - very exciting  ) - the bolts just over the lip are pretty bomber, certainly compared to the mank you creep across the roof on  . Some good holds here also, it only looks like one tricky move to get up to the break.

The problem with both of these lines is the start position, if you abbed in you'd almost certainly end up starting quite hig, and with a rope hanging next to you. The most satisfying way would be to lead the aid roofs and then step out of the aiders on the lip.

[grimer]

Tobias Wolf did it a few years ago, with a hangfing rope clipped into the bolts to back them up, as per trhe FA. I think Leo only top roped it, and wasn't impressed by difficulty or quality.

[Mirf]

My route Sketching wildly on Ramshaw lower tier, don`t think it`s been repeated? It`s quite an interesting route and not that hard and relatively safe too.