[Aussiegav]

what happened to the gritstone in wales and hebrides???

[Houdini]

Only a geologist would argue there is grit in Wales.    Said geo-type would point to a particularly chossy death-crag with little to be gained but death from climbing it and go there GRIT!  I've got a skyhook!

Nice one Einstein, now point me towards something I might want to climb that takes body-weight...

[John Cooke]

Any of these had a repeat??

Toxic Bilberries
Superstition
Loaded
Savage Earth
Gigantic
Marbellous
Superbloc
Widdop Wall
Doctor Doolittle

 

[Rice Boy]

What about the Chew valley horror shows, 'Appointment with Death' and 'Order of the Pheonix'?

[dave]

hasn't gaskins done toxic dillberries or did i just dream that shit up?

[r-man]

Yeah, some time last year. Possibly around the same time as when he did Vortex at Egerton and the V13 slab at Stanworth. Has Vortex had any other repeats?

[Houdini]

..the V13 slab at Stanworth

OK.  You got my attention.  Whet that appetite!  Is it ace?  Can stumpies do it?  Piccies?  A name?  Anyone?  8b slabs are rare as hen's teeth.

(ps - If anyone hasn't already done so, click 'Dispatch it' at the bottom of Daves' post.  You got yourself some well-tasty shots there dude.)


Shit.  This is post 6-6-6.  Yes!  Number of the Beast!  Cue random satanic anecdote:  At Bangor Uni I once lived in Treborth Hall Farmhouse.  (Bet someone on here has lived there too).  In the cottage that was joined to the farmhouse lived two very reclusive people...  Curtains always drawn...  We shared a pay phone (in the conservatory) which one time would not stop ringing.  I ignored it from the top floor.  I knew it was family of one of the hermits next door wanting me to knock at their door for the umpteenth time that week.  They just wouldn't give up!  I lose it and storm the conservatory and inform them that quite frankly after a week of private bellboy service (eh?) I didn't care if they were found belly-up in the Menai Straits and hung up - taking phone off hook.  Nice!  Just me an Led Zep, or so I thought...   An hour later, the filth are at the door: the family suspect a suicide pact having been recently 'tipped off'. (!)  I take the police round to the property and the boys look in the refuse bins (as you do) and found the bins to be chockablock with satanic and devil worship magazines (weird subscription only shit).    We took some of the mags for perusal later.  We never saw the couple again.

[r-man]

OK.  You got my attention.  Whet that appetite!  Is it ace?  Can stumpies do it?  Piccies?  A name?  Anyone?  8b slabs are rare as hen's teeth.

Nik at Work is the man to quiz - think he was obsessed with it for a while. Never had a look myself, but by all accounts it's a very impressive piece of rock, though right next to a landfill site, which smells. There aren't any photos of Gaskins on it, but if you look in the Lancashire brick you can just make out one of the lines/some of the line next to the crack of African Queen. Apparently it's repelled many of the best in the past - though I was told off recently for mentioning the rumour that Dawes had failed on it - apparently he was impressed but never actually tried it. So there you go.

[dave]

(ps - If anyone hasn't already done so, click 'Dispatch it' at the bottom of Daves' post.  You got yourself some well-tasty shots there dude.)

word that particular ons is in cofe's gallery, one of his, i can't take any credit. Having said that, when i'm in front of the lens its like shooting fish in a barrel..... large fish....in a small barrel..... with a shotgun.

[Jim]

really messy then

[Bonjoy]

Nik's Wall - Rivelin. Well overdue

[monkey boy]

That not been re-done? Went to look around rivelin the other day but it was too hot to climb, that and master Kush look wicked definately some winter climbing there!

[andy_e]

Any of these had a repeat??

Toxic Bilberries

Dunning's done it too. And Vortex. And I think someone else has done Vortex apart from Gaskins, Parry and Dunning.

[nik at work]

Has Niks wall not been repeated?
Thats My Lot also in Rivelin Quarries hasn't had a repeat AFAIK
Also don't think that Earthboots has had a repeat yet has it (although Scut should have done it)?

The Gaskins slab at Stanworth is awesome. I'm not sure of the exact line he has taken but it is on the very obvious slab right of African Queen. There's probably two straight up lines on it and perhaps a couple of diagonal/zig-zaggy style variations. All uber hard. I tried the left hand straight up line and thought it would be about 8b, and the right hand line looked harder. Shame it stinks...

I've done Vortex (as has Ryan Pasquill or Pete Hurley, or possibly both) and I'm sure a few people have done Toxic Billberries.

I'm sure there's quite a few unrepeated routes at various obscure venues, I imagine unrepeated boulder problems are rarer as they are easier to try (less rope and stuff). Although I have no science to back that up...

[uptown]

Also don't think that Earthboots has had a repeat yet has it (although Scut should have done it)?

I'm sure there's quite a few unrepeated routes at various obscure venues, I imagine unrepeated boulder problems are rarer as they are easier to try (less rope and stuff). Although I have no science to back that up...

If this is true about Earthboots then it's well overdue. Problem wise 'Phoenix wall' hasn't had attention yet - obscure venue I know but slab classics don't come much better than this...

[Bonjoy]

 If we're allowed to include our own things then I think the following are still unrepeated:
 Beyond the Forbidden Forest, Monster Monster - both quality E5 6bs at eatswood
 Goosecreature 7c - Shining Cliff
 Jelly Eyes 7c, Sweet Release 7c+ - Wharncliffe

And if we are stretching to own sport routes then:
 Loki The Trickster f7c, Escape to Valhalla f7c+, Ragnarok f8a - Thor's Cave
 Pistol Fingers f8a, Mosey On Down The Crow Road f8a (FA last night ) - Long Tor Quarry
 

[Houdini]

A Pointy Reckoning E5 6C near Fear of Infection, south side of the Pass.  Bascically a 6C cheval/fat pinch flying arete/fin problem out above a 45° landing.  Totally cool as in every way bar the landing.

Never heard of a repeat.

[Houdini]

The Gaskins slab at Stanworth is awesome.

Any chance you could you rustle up a photo of this?  THX in ADV.

[nik at work]

I may have a photo somewhere but don't hold your breath...

And as for your accusations of blatant self promotion bonjoy, well frankly I'm sulking...

[andy_e]

I could knock you up a replica picture in paint... All it would be is a line to indicate the edge of the slab. All the holds would then be marked on.

Bolted Blues E6 6c/f7c at Harcles Hill- long overdue a second ascent. It's not eliminate, honest, and it's not crap, honest.

[Ru]

I've done Vortex (as has Ryan Pasquill or Pete Hurley, or possibly both) and I'm sure a few people have done Toxic Billberries.

What's the sketch with Vortex (ie is it cruxy/sustained, what gear, what conditions etc)?

[andy_e]

From what I've heard, and from what it looks like, it's pretty sustained. Good conditions are hard to find, it's either too green, too wet or too hot.

[uptown]

I'm sulking now too N@W despite Jibes attempted diplomacy.
I'm not into self pub. but I can recognise class problems and routes; Genuine armchair passion drives my posts, but I've said enough now.
Re: Ecky Thump Andy - We tried it just after your F.A. and found it brave and of high quality, though none of us commited to a lead at the time. I'll certainly have it near the top of my list for this season. 

[Bonjoy]

 You both misread me, I was just looking for an excuse to plug my own routes, honest 
 Anyway, from experience trying them (unsuccessfully) I think Nik's Wall and Earth Boots are amazing and well worth a lot more attention.

[nik at work]

And now I'm happy again.

As for Vortex I felt that the first couple of moves were the crux and the rest felt OK. Not easy or anything, just OK. I think it could probably get quite smegggy though and could stay that way for a while as it is tucked away in a corner (well not in a corner but you know what I mean). As for gear I have no idea (soloed init'). I have very vague recolections of reading about a small friend or rp's or summat, but then I might be confusing it with Toxic Billberries...

You never know maybe someone will come along with some useful information soon...