EDIT - I would like to confess that I've been trying these all week, and have not found them to be as easy as I may have earlier suggested....
What is amazing is how John Gill was stronger than probably 95% of the people who use this forum and that was nearly 50 years ago. That really does leave me speechless.
Gill was evidently a beast. Call me a heretic, but what surprises me most is that he didn't put up harder problems. For a man of his strength he didn't do much with it.
Ok amend that to: For a man of his strength he didn't get near to applying it's potential on rock.
How about 1 arm L-Sit Pull ups... keeping your body straight and open of course.
am gona come down there n raise you on the river. you've just made that exercise up
coming out from a roof, instead of bumping a heel or dynoing out, he would gently let down his legs, then do a slow, controlled one arm pull up, lock off, and move to the next hold.
gill was very much into the aesthethic of climbing, and one reason he didnt put up anything "hard" (beyond v8 7b+......)
The monk has a point, but one that I think is only viable and applicable in the 7th grade. How many 8B's and above require more technique than strength. In fact, point me out an 8B climber who isn't very STRONG.
I do kind of agree with bonjoy, but ultimately style isn't just using the least effort and increasing efficiency. Perhaps that is a component of it, but it's so much more than that. I actually don't know anything about style.
QuoteThe monk has a point, but one that I think is only viable and applicable in the 7th grade. How many 8B's and above require more technique than strength. In fact, point me out an 8B climber who isn't very STRONG.Ryan and Tyler have strong fingers, fuck all body weight and an intuitive grasp of momentum. You don't see them doing L-sit pull-ups or one arm front levers. Yes most 8b climbers in their thirties are all-round strong, but the fast repeats are coming from stringy youths swinging about.
Doubt he could do a front lever either!
Don't think so. There's nothing covering his neck, he's got wristbands sure and long trousers, but the neck is naked. I think it's real. His body tension will blow, mind. Deadhangs deadly, frontlevers but a dream. Owning a delicate victorian toilet? Impossible.
that guys a fat bastard