[dave]

holler was at stoney today, got a few  pedantic trivia questions for the peeps in the know:

• on zippy's sidepull, can you put your thumb on that crimp seam or not?
• whats the rules (re footholds) if any on white ladder?
• what the fuck actually is hold L in tom's roof? is it a hold or just sometihng to touch on the way past?
• on stuff like pete's power pull when it says "footless" does that mean taking feet off, hanging, then doing the next move real footless, or does it simply mean jumping feet off the back wall all on 1 motion for that move?
• when it says georges wall dyno 7a+ to the sloper, who has done it that way and how much crack had they been cooking to think 7a+? everyone i know who's done this went to the jug in the break instead and that felt 7b/7b+/7c territory, and going to sloper must be harder. 7a+ implies as easy as kirton dyno (piss) and easier than quents!!! (even pisser). whats the flava?

discuss

[(woz)]

Zippy's: Pretty sure you can use the thumb (although it is desperate both ways)

What is white ladder? route?

Petes power pull - get crimp with left, take feet off kinda static + steady yourself, then hang down + pull up and swing round for jug.

Hold L is an depression in the roof which forms a right angle (i think)

Having done every other dyno at stoney i cant even get close to either on georges wall.

[a dense loner]

1) i put my thumb on the crimp
2) white ladder is my prob, strange that considering all the abuse recently :wink: . feet anywhere, not on the huge hold out right tho. my feet are directly under me all the way
3) pete's is a totally different prob if you're tall. i put feet on back wall n leap out shitting myself, possibly one of many reason's why i haven't done it
4) george's wall dyno is hard. if tall feet are low, if flexible feet are high. most people use the left hand undercut as well, making it much easier

[Andy B]

We weren't sure about the hand holds for White Ladder either. We were starting on the two horizontal crimps (which seemed a high start), then left to the diagonal crimp then to the high jug to finish (but weren't sure if there was another crimp in first), cofe thought, whenasked afterwards, left hand horizontal crimp right hand sidepull/ pinch to start.

[a dense loner]

rh sidepull, lh crimp at same level, rh up to knife-type crimp, lh to diagonal crimp, leap to the apex not anywhere else, it is minus ten after all :wink:

[Andy B]

Cool. Did one move out of the three correctly then. Thats a nice last move.

[dave]

2) white ladder is my prob, strange that considering all the abuse recently :wink: . feet anywhere, not on the huge hold out right tho. my feet are directly under me all the way

i seem to remember soem beta about doing the move to the diagonal crimp by sitting on RF in the break and letting left foot flag, but then ghandi suss just rocking over left into the break. not sure how that would work if we're starting on sidepull though.

3) pete's is a totally different prob if you're tall. i put feet on back wall n leap out shitting myself, possibly one of many reason's why i haven't done it

its shits me up a treat i've never actually thrown for the hold yet. I was kinda hoping someone would wade in and say you had to hang then go, instead of jumpiing, cut then at least it would make it less freaky..

4) george's wall dyno is hard. if tall feet are low, if flexible feet are high. most people use the left hand undercut as well, making it much easier

i did it with both hands on jug and feet high on little footohlds. with that amount of leg in the way had to really pull hard. don't remember seing any lower footholds that would have worked for me though. if left hand is on undercut does that mean there is some foothold out left for some people then?

[a dense loner]

the footholds on george's are obvious.
the back wall at tom's go's up as well. basically you have both feet as high as poss on the back wall. you will be able to static the move

but then ghandi suss just rocking over left into the break. not sure how that would work if we're starting on sidepull though

not sure what this mean's dave, for your feet? the break is out for hand's. i wouldn't like to try swapping feet while holding the right hand hold

[(woz)]

3) pete's is a totally different prob if you're tall. i put feet on back wall n leap out shitting myself, possibly one of many reason's why i haven't done it

its shits me up a treat i've never actually thrown for the hold yet. I was kinda hoping someone would wade in and say you had to hang then go, instead of jumpiing, cut then at least it would make it less freaky..

Thats exactly what i was trying to say (obviously not very well!) - you have to take your feet off + hang before starting the move, otherwise its nowhere near 7c+.

[dave]

word to that wozza - was kinda hoping ru or arthur harris would say it though and make it official!

[a dense loner]

let me get this right, you take your left hand out of the undercut and put it on the hold in the middle of the roof, then take your feet off n do a one-armer to an out of reach hold? i do not believe this is possible by a human being

[Stu Littlefair]

that, my friend, is because you are weak.

[Johnny Brown]

Actually Dense is dead strong, but sadly he's not a midget :wink:

[(woz)]

let me get this right, you take your left hand out of the undercut and put it on the hold in the middle of the roof, then take your feet off n do a one-armer to an out of reach hold? i do not believe this is possible by a human being

you just lock off on your left + take right hand off and swing around, no pulling up is required (not that i can actually do it - v. close tho)

[(woz)]

word to that wozza - was kinda hoping ru or arthur harris would say it though and make it official!

What you talkin' bout

 It doesn't get more official than me (aka queen of the cave)

[a dense loner]

right, will be at tom's in the next few days. nowhere else will be dry anyway. you're not wrong stu

[dave]

for info toms roof was sopping this afternoon. condensation and shit.

[a dense loner]

nice one dave (ss)

[fiveknuckle21]

Alright sorry to resurrect this thread, but it makes for interesting reading I guess...

Was having a bit of a 'mare on Figure of 8. Found Swing Thing and Power Allowance pretty steady for the grade and couldn't even touch the 'low slot move to the pinch over the lip' on this one. Is it just a case of pulling harder or is there any crafty beta revolving around that little foot hold?

[Andy Harris]

The curtain method was indeed a static pull and deffo the hardest method. these days it's just that basic foot off strength that many folk have and hence they find it easy. if you don't it might as well be impossible. I'm sure there's all sorts of new school japery for jumping big balls of steel but maybe more E5 6c than 7c+

If you want a harder footless project get yourself on Jericho rd.

I'd say Figure of 8 is easier than power allowance or swing thing. It's just a big pull that you need a funny kinda momentum to get the pinchy block. Fig 8 was one of mine and i remember
RH- crimp, RF big crozzly edge
LH- low sidepull
let go of the crimp drop all the way down then pounce back up
RH- pinch/block thing
hope this helps