[richdraws]

Where does Saline Drip go? I was looking last night and there are a lot of holds, none obviously showing a line of least resistance.
Cheers
 

[cofe]

it's on the LH side of the wall where the cars park. left of the obvious mid-height jug. there's either a minging undercut, or you can sidepull and over from either side. aiming for a couple of edges, then a rockover to gain the bottom sidepull bit of the blocky flake thing. then top of it. that sounds a bit vague actually. sorry. think i use sidepull LH and boule over with my right.

were you the guy there when i went home sulking about my split tip. if so, sorry, i was in a foul mood.

[richdraws]

Yeah that was me you miserable get. 
I hope the split tip heals quickly, mine didn't go until I stopped using so much chalk and sandpapered it down frequently. I can still see the line of weakness on the tip though.

I tried it briefly using a left hand side pull and going over with my right, but was always a bit too low. I thought it was going to be a quick tick too.

[cofe]

think feet are key, back (right) foot might be higher to help push you over.

it's not really on the tip, it's nearer the joint. i felt it 'unzip' on rattle and hump. pretty unpleasant.

[Monolith]

FWIW it's not a bad little wall problem I thought. A classic boule I think you'll concur Cofe. Bouling on problems is fucking ace isn't it?

[Paul B]

Like Cofe said, two versions...

LH - Take RH split sidepul/u/cut and work feet up really high and slap for the good edge. Head to flake.

RH - Twist LH into painful slot get feet up high, RH slap to sharp crimp, LH deadpoint to better edge (used in the LH version), then head for the top of the flake.

I prefer the LH as theres less slapping for sharp little edges involved.

[r-man]

Like Cofe said, two versions...

Don't forget the sitstart...

 

[richdraws]

Go on then, the sit start? Inform my ignorant arse...

[r-man]

Think the holds are fairly obvious, can't remember them exactly. Probably adds a grade.

[andyh]

don't forget to top out either. phew, that was scary

[andy popp]

What grade's this (not sds) meant to be?

[nai]

It's graded 7a, felt hard for that to me (I failed) but then all limestone does.

[andy popp]

Sorry to be anal but is that a route or a font grade? Its just that I seem to have lost all sense of grades and am trying to work out roughly what various new things I've done recently might be.

[Andy B]

Font 7a for the boulder problem, and E5 for the full thing.

[a dense loner]

i thought saline drip, and the thing next to it, were both very stiff pulls for the grade.

nice one cofe on a horrific finger injury days before magic grades, oh and you too dobbin. pair of cocks

[dave]

Like Cofe said, two versions...

LH - Take RH split sidepul/u/cut and work feet up really high and slap for the good edge. Head to flake.

RH - Twist LH into painful slot get feet up high, RH slap to sharp crimp, LH deadpoint to better edge (used in the LH version), then head for the top of the flake.

I prefer the LH as theres less slapping for sharp little edges involved.

there's also the middle version where you undercut in a very tight slot, favoured by those with small fingers. there's also various other ways of doing it with harder moves off poor holds. the sitter is best climbed into the LH version, were you undercut up from sitting into the split vulcan undercut thing. there's also a bad 2 finger pocket out left on this that can help you set up for the crux.

[Paul B]

so is my RH actually the Middle?

[dave]

aye something like that. thats the great thing about this problem, there's a sequence for everyone.

[a dense loner]

so does that mean they're all given different names and grades?

[dave]

no this aint almscliff.