[Tommy]

Erm...... where exactly does this go? I couldn't work out the line. I certainly couldn't find a "seperate reality-esque roof crack" that's for sure.

Cheers

Tom

PS. Does anyone else think Clash of the Titan's is about V6 rather than V8? Good problem though.

[tc]

It's on the block where "Fisherman's Dyno" is. Find this, then "Lateral Mindset" (just to the right of the dyno if memory serves me correctly). Burrow into the cave. Sit down. Fight along the crack (usually damp), heading out to the daylight. Alternatively, do the stand-up version at about V3.
"Clash" is not V8. V6 seems about right. It still needs a (pointless) sit start, I think, which will be harder.
Enjoy "Tim's Crack"

Tim

[GCW]

Left to right:  Hueco Crack > Lateral Mindset > Fisherman's Dyno > Some eliminate > Tim's Crack

Basically the through and through crack in the far right here:

[Tommy]

It's on the block where "Fisherman's Dyno" is. Find this, then "Lateral Mindset" (just to the right of the dyno if memory serves me correctly). Burrow into the cave. Sit down. Fight along the crack (usually damp), heading out to the daylight. Alternatively, do the stand-up version at about V3.
"Clash" is not V8. V6 seems about right. It still needs a (pointless) sit start, I think, which will be harder.
Enjoy "Tim's Crack"

Tim

Ah ok - I'm still a little confused though. To the right of lateral mindset under the roof is 2 cracks. One is pretty insipient (i.e. more of a pocketed seam, than a splitter) and has some vague pods, pockets and a couple of jams and wasn't sure where the starting holds were. Is the seperate reality description wrong in that case?

The other right of this by 2 m is a proper splitter which runs from the very back right corner and kinda gets pretty thructhy and wide in the middle and doesn't have the obvious a finish i.e. it just hits a side wall and you would have to layback out.

I thought Clash was a sitter? I did it from sitter as I thought that was the way! Whoops.

GCW:  can't see a crack in that photo! Sorry dude.

[GCW]

GCW:  can't see a crack in that photo! Sorry dude.

It's the diagonal line top right, essentially the continuation of the split that Hueco climbs.
Get yer glasses on

[Tommy]

I think I must be totally blind. 

So - obviously you know the line. Is it the insipient crack underneath that's about 10ft long or the 20ft splitter?

[GCW]

I haven't tried them.  As far as I was aware, Tim's was the big crack- long and often damp.  I think the other of which you speak may be Primate Principles?



But I may be totally wrong, so I'd listen more to TC- he should know really

[Greg C]

Problems in Fisherman's Dyno Block cave:

Tim's Crack: Basically this is a crack for the last two thirds, the first third is a broken crack line of pockets and poor flaring jams. However, it is an obvious line as the 6a+ upper section is standout, and easy to trace back to the ground. If you start from sitting at the point where the holds pretty much run out it's solid 7c+/impossible, dependent on your reach and how many pads you sit on. Most people start from very low but not quite sat down - 7c/+.  I agree, the Separate Reality description is completely inaccurate.

Primate Principals: Starts from undercut slots/pockets a metre or two back from the start of Tim's Crack and climbs into a ramp/line (see image above) and then on to an obvious jug at the back of the cave, rather than toward the light, as with Tim's. You then just drop off once matched.

Unnamed 7bish: (I haven't done this but I know where it goes) If facing seaward, inside the cave, this starts on the far right side (i.e. kind of behind Hueco Crack) and follows a line of pockets to a jug at the back of the cave, although I can't quite remember where exactly. On this you are climbing in a similar direction to Tim's Crack, i.e. more toward the light.

Couple of other points: The problem right of Fisherman's Dyno is Tender Hooks and is not an eliminate. If you start in the right place you can't reach any of the holds on FD. This is good, tough and well worthwhile.

Clash of the Titan's is, in my view, 7a+. It may be easier if you are tall and can reach further up the ramp but for an average sized person starting with there hands at head height it's harder than 7a. It's not been considered 7b for years. The sitter is certainly not pointless - one of the best projects going in my view.

Hope that helps.

[GCW]

Thanks Greg, very useful.

[Steve R]

I thought Clash was a sitter? I did it from sitter as I thought that was the way! Whoops.

one of the best projects going in my view.

shouldn't that be was one of he best projects going then? 

[Steve R]

I think I must be totally blind. 

or perhaps tommy was on the arete to the right by mistake? or somewhere in little font? 

[Richie Crouch]

Weird, I found Clash of utterly desperate and harder than Undercooke/Headbanger/Hueco ss/Yellow Desert..etc the list goes on!  Might be a lot more conditions dependant than the others as it was in the full sun all day and about 25 degrees 

[tc]

But I may be totally wrong, so I'd listen more to TC- he should know really

I don't know anything. Everything I once knew is now lost and confused in the mists of time

[Greg C]

I thought Clash was a sitter? I did it from sitter as I thought that was the way! Whoops.

Seriously? Both myself and DV thought it was going to be about 8a/+? And that was in good winter conditions. I assume you didn't reach back into the groove out left? The line does stick to the arete. Hang on, and you thought it was 7a from a sitter? Now I'm really confused, have I missed something?  ???

Incidentally, the sitter to the right arete is (was?) also a project. So even if you did that you bagged a new line.

[Tommy]

Hi Greg,

Thanks for that info - I was trying the crack from basically a lying down start, miles back on some god awful jams and pockets in the wet. Thought it was hard - so good to know I wasn't quite in the right place!

Clash of the Titans - really sorry, I'm being a dopey twat. Just checked the topos (as it's not like me to go do local's projects in a couple of goes) and I've told you the wrong problem. It was Headbanger - I thought that was V6 rather than V8. Similar proposed grades, so got confused 

Good luck on the sitter to COTT! That does indeed look hard.

Tom