[Fiend]

Thought this might be an interesting idea. I have a couple of my own queries but this could be a useful general thread for people to ask and people to answer (bagsy I answer the ones about routes in esoteric choss-holes ).

Anyway.

First couple of queries:

The Gully Joke, Froggatt (climbs the wall left of Terrace Crack) - upper bit is fully comprehensible. But for the lower section, do you use an easily reachable runner in terrace crack before pulling over the roof into the little groove? Or do you go for the several metre ground-fall potential?


Impossible Slab, Stanage - again the upper bit is fully comprehensible. But for the lower section, do you use a runner in the thin crack just left of the chimney, when you make the thin slab moves ABOVE the first break? Or do you go for the several metre ground-fall potential complete with FREE bonus broken limbs?


Argh there was another one but I forgot it. Oh yeah I remember....


Old Fogey, Ramshaw - the initial moves out right to get stood on the good hold on the steep arete, do you hand traverse, hook the jug, and rock onto it? Or traverse higher using the undercut crack with feet on the holds?


That's all for now...

[dave]

i don't remember putting gear in the crack to the right on the bottom half of impossible. i may however have cocked a foot over there though, dunno if it was the nutcrack or what though.

[grimer]

I remember shitting myself at the start of impossible slab. Also that it was one of the worst routes I've ever done on grit. Absolute shite.

[andy_e]

(bagsy I answer the ones about routes in esoteric choss-holes ).

how about no, that's my and r-mans job!

[JR]

it was one of the worst routes I've ever done on grit. Absolute shite.

second that...

[SA Chris]

Matt, I thought you were ethically opposed to any of this kind of beta for routes stuff. Or are you mellowing in your old age.

[Fiend]

LOL. I'm ethically unopposed to getting accurate information about where exactly a route goes when the guidebooks and various comments I've read are woefully inaccurate.

I'm not asking for any information on how to climb these routes, just what is used to climb them at a particular level of challenge...

Conceivably someone on here might actually know the answers too...

[Suj]

second that...[/quote]

thirded. a complete waste of time.

[Fiend]

Anyone??

[Fiend]

The Gully Joke, Froggatt (climbs the wall left of Terrace Crack) - upper bit is fully comprehensible. But for the lower section, do you use an easily reachable runner in terrace crack before pulling over the roof into the little groove? Or do you go for the several metre ground-fall potential?

Did this the other week in a surprise bout of grit-suitable weather. Placed the obvious runner at the start and it was very well needed as the squirmy reachy groove is the crux and the fall from there would be well serious, definite ankle masher and closer to E4 if you ignored the side-runner. The top wall of the route is safe and delightful.

[bigphil]

I seem to recall that a nut in the lower crack on the right of impossible slab lowered the grade to E2, though exactly where I read that I'm not sure.

[SA Chris]

I think it's gear in the crack to the right higher up that reduces it to E2. Or somethnig contrived like that.

[grimer]

Yes, on impossible slab, put in runners wherever you like. This really isn't the sort of route where you'd be pleased if you hurt yourself, with continually bland moves in a painfully contrived position with artificially enforced danger.

[Bonjoy]

 That's the description for the next Stanage guide sorted then 

Imposible Slab E3 5c - This really isn't the sort of route where you'd be pleased if you hurt yourself, with continually bland moves in a painfully contrived position with artificially enforced danger.

[Fiend]

Old Fogey, Ramshaw - the initial moves out right to get stood on the good hold on the steep arete, do you hand traverse, hook the jug, and rock onto it? Or traverse higher using the undercut crack with feet on the holds?

BUMP!

Most interested in this at the moment, someone must know...

[AndiT]

Get the big horn (!) and rock out right to either the undercut or the arete, there is a big foothold just under the overlap. You then reach down and round the arete to place gear, before stepping round and climbing the flake thing. So it's your higher alternative from your description. It's a very good route, it's over at the break!

[Fiend]

Cheers for that Andi - FINALLY this burning issue is cleared up. Actually, looking in On Peak Rock it says a similar thing. Although I must say a swinging hand traverse looks quite feasible. Well, I may try it soon...

[AndiT]

You could swing in, you can even climb the lower sharp arete direct at 7c+. There is even a new route waiting to be done if you climb the OF arete on its left all the way up, E6?

[slim]

when i did i.s. i made the mistake of shouting at my belayer, iam i allowed to use this crack...
obvioulsy being answered with "of course your not", so didnt...
but as to if you actually are allowed to, i would suggest probably not

do agree that there are better routes to be had out there that i.s. but ive done worse as well

[Fiend]

Okay, time for a shameless beta request...

This is purely out of theoretical interest as I've failed on the route (muffed downclimbing under the roof on the 3rd reversal) so I won't be going back in the foreseeable future. But:

Stormbringer, Gardoms: WTF?? (i.e. how do you mantle onto the shelf??)

[mark]

Pretty sure I didn't mantel straight onto the ledge, but instead snatched up for a hold in the next break up and used that to push and pull until I could get my foot/knee/arse onto the shelf.

[Bonjoy]

 I did it as a classic mantle. Pressed down on both palms rotated 180 degrees outward, right foot on lip, up with a hand (right I think) then foot on the boss. It was a while back and memory somewhat hazy but I think that was it.

[webbo]

i have a very vague memory of pressing up till my arms were locked out then popping with my left hand for something in the next break then putting my foot on.this was back in the days when i had some triceps.

[Paz]

I found Stormbringer impossible too and out of me and Dave he thought I was the one who was supposed to be good at mantles. 

My question his how the hell can any think it's only 5c? 

Stormbringer - for those who've done every other E3 5c on Gardom's.  Who was Gardom anyway?

[AndiT]

Who was Gardom anyway?

You wanna know? You've come to the right place..

Gardom's Edge is named after Thomas Gardom a mill owner from Calver.

Sad, I know, but it's a labour of love of mine knowing where place names come from...