[Mike_H]

Ok so this years been a pretty good year for me, I've blitzed quite a few of the problems I set out to do at the start of the year and have pushed my lead grade up by a few E points so all in all I'm pretty pleased.

Ideally I want to try and keep this level of improvement going in to next year, however I realise that to do this I'm going to have to start some type of structured training and apply a bit of SCIENCE.

The thing is I don't have the foggiest where to actually start with it all. Up to now my general idea of training was going to the wall and going bouldering, or doing some routes.

[a dense loner]

what are you training for? ie goals, this would make a good start

[Simon S]

The book 'training for climbing' by Eric Horst is worth a look as are some of the training articles by Neil Gresham on planetfear.com. As the above post says, it all depends on what you want to acheive as to what training to embark on.

[Mike_H]

Sorry guys totally forgot about posting this topic.

Having thought about it, over the past couple of months I've been training for a sport climbing trip over christmas. Basically I've got alot fitter, dropped a bit of weight and now feel as though I have way more stamina to train for longer but I've lost alot of my base grunt when it comes to bouldering.

This year I'm wanting to try and consolidate in the V5 - V6 range, instead of ticking a few here and there.

Also I was wondering whether anyones read Eric Horst 'Flash Training' and whether anything else is covered in 'Training for climbing' and whether it would be a good read.

[clm]

circuit raining is good for becoming a machine.  i reckon we all climb enough for the specific side of things.  its the general overall fitness we all lack.  as a lazy bastard meself this is oh so true.

[a dense loner]

i don't know whar you mean clm. i can do 3 moves quite comfortably, surely anything else is a traverse? :D

[tommytwotone]

I sacked the gym off a couple of months back (usual story, wasn't getting in there enough to make it worthwhile...), I know it's a bit 80s but instead I'm playing squash a couple of times a week.

Hey, I'm still pretty poor at it but I have found that doing something competitive compared to numerous solo gym visits means I'm way more psyched to do it.

Also I reckon I'm thinking of it as a game and not exercise, therefore finding it less of a chore.

You could try adding summat like that in - bit of relief from shifting weights and ting, plus it seems to be helping my general fitness...better than 30 mins on a treadmill IMHO!

[account_inactive]

The Eric Horst book is not that good really.  It serves as a useful introduction to training but is not back up with proper science.  Eric is not used to working with atheletes face to face either so.....................

The performace rock guide is well worth a look at.  More science based but not as well laid out as the 5.12 ting.

At the end of the day training comes down to motivation, which helps keeps you working out etc.  Sport science aids us to find quicker ways to get better.  Short cuts if you like.  If someone said that they got bette llock off strength from bicep curls they are not wrong, more that they could have got to the same stage with say some actual lock-off training, campusing etc.

Hope that fills the gaps a bit.......


This site is good if you want some more advanced stuff  http://www.jollypower.com/jollyhomeI.htm.  To be honest around V4/5 you should just get loads of mileage and some basic power stuff like one-armers, campusing, front levers and don't forget the antagonistic muscles!

[Mike_H]

Tommy - funny you should say that my brother has recently started playing squash and has got me down playing. I used to play to a reasonably high level so thats been pretty interesting playing against my bro and some better players. I've certainly noticed the improvement in fitness - that coupled with running

Dylan - cheers will have a look through the link and may pick up the performance rock guide - at £8 on Amazon its cheap enough.

[tommytwotone]

Yo Mike, you know it's right...tho from my experience so far, not sure how much good slamming into the walls, coupled with jarring my knees loads will do to my climbing...

Reckon it's making me fitter than straight gym stuff, sure it's helping agility/flex and shizzle n all.

[Scouse D]

Got a game of squash today. I find that it really fucks with my climbing cos i usually strain my ass muscles (oo er), but it's a right good sport. I usually play squash twice a week and run three times a week. I agree though that general fitness is the way forward as before I started all this I felt well heavy.Nowadays I fell good a lot more often.

[dave]

i usually strain my ass muscles

those big squash boys been going in dry on you eh? I hope they had the common decency to give you a reacharound.

[Scouse D]

i usually strain my ass muscles

those big squash boys been going in dry on you eh? I hope they had the common decency to give you a reacharound.

Only after warming up my balls.
 I also commonly get my lob on when at the front of the court.

[tommytwotone]

i usually strain my ass muscles (oo er).

aye, me too.

Found a way round it tho - last week i played a game o squash at lunchtime, then did kickboxing class in the eve. I was absolutely shattered by the end of it, but woke up next morning with no pain at all - perhaps the two cancel each other out??

oh, and make sure you get your grip sorted - you'll get more power in your strokes.

Boom boom.