Anyone spot how Brooke bashed her eye?
With 2 climbers tied on 64 points, what is it that they use to split them?
Quote from: abarro81 on August 06, 2021, 02:01:30 pmWith 2 climbers tied on 64 points, what is it that they use to split them?I think the1st tie breaker is head to head, so Akiyo beat Alexsanra twice
For those who might be interested, the final results are as follows. These may differ from the official results which use this thing called speed climbing to help figure out the numbers. Not sure what that's all about? 1. Garnbret (1) [1*1]2. Raboutou (12) [2*6]3. Seo (14) [7*2]4 Nonaka (15) [3*5] Fewer zone attempts than Pilz in bouldering.5 Pilz (15) [5*3]6. Noguchi (16) [4*4]7. Jaubert (42) [6*7]8. Miroslaw (64) [8*8]I must say I enjoyed all that immensely. Looking forward to Paris.
Quote from: Will Hunt on August 06, 2021, 02:19:25 pmFor those who might be interested, the final results are as follows. These may differ from the official results which use this thing called speed climbing to help figure out the numbers. Not sure what that's all about? 1. Garnbret (1) [1*1]2. Raboutou (12) [2*6]3. Seo (14) [7*2]4 Nonaka (15) [3*5] Fewer zone attempts than Pilz in bouldering.5 Pilz (15) [5*3]6. Noguchi (16) [4*4]7. Jaubert (42) [6*7]8. Miroslaw (64) [8*8]I must say I enjoyed all that immensely. Looking forward to Paris. , but still no need for multiplying rubbish (why should Seo be above Nonako or Pilz. Just add the scores and if scores are equal then person with highest best placing wins.1. Garnbret (2) [1+1]2. Raboutou ( [2+6]4 Nonaka ( [3+5] Fewer zone attempts than Pilz in bouldering.5 Pilz ( [5+3]6. Noguchi ( [4+4]3. Seo (9) [7+2]7. Jaubert (13) [6+7]8. Miroslaw (16) [8+8]
Do we know yet how Paris will be worked out and how ties might be broken? Seems like with multiplication or addition there's a good chance of seeing ties with only two disciplines. Have looked on the IFSC website but can't see anything.
Quote from: Will Hunt on August 06, 2021, 02:50:10 pmDo we know yet how Paris will be worked out and how ties might be broken? Seems like with multiplication or addition there's a good chance of seeing ties with only two disciplines. Have looked on the IFSC website but can't see anything.A speed climb.
I must say I enjoyed all that immensely. Looking forward to Paris.
Quote from: crimpinainteasy on August 05, 2021, 04:32:35 pmIf you gave points based on performance relative to the winner of each discipline that would surely only punish someone like Jakob where he won but only by a narrow margin. It would essentially put more value on being mediocre across all 3 disciplines than being really good in any single event.Was Jakob's margin small - seemed significantly better than Ondra to me? It'd depend how you assigned points, but as in Lead it gets harder as you go up the wall, a difference of one hold near the top should maybe count for more than a difference of one hold lower down. I'm sure points could be allocated on some sort of exponential/log formula to account for this. Similar with speed, each decrease in time by a hundredth of a second is harder than the last.
If you gave points based on performance relative to the winner of each discipline that would surely only punish someone like Jakob where he won but only by a narrow margin. It would essentially put more value on being mediocre across all 3 disciplines than being really good in any single event.
Just watching it on BBC catch up now. One Q I've had about speed - why do they all hang of the first hold before clipping in?Always seems like a recipe for distaster fi you're training, as you could easily then forget to clip in?
Quote from: Fultonius on August 06, 2021, 04:53:13 pmJust watching it on BBC catch up now. One Q I've had about speed - why do they all hang of the first hold before clipping in?Always seems like a recipe for distaster fi you're training, as you could easily then forget to clip in?is it so they can put the pressure plate thing, that they start off, in the right place?
She was out of her depth in the bouldering but I would have thought she'd have a got a little bit further in the lead.