[teestub]

Anyone spot how Brooke bashed her eye?

I think it was dismounting B1 in the quali’s, think Chanourdie might have had a matching one too.

Feel like Janja deserves a 0.5 multiplier from the bouldering, just getting 1 doesn’t cover how much she dominated.

Felt for Brooke, like Colin yesterday it looked like her head has dropped a bit.

[Will Hunt]

Head to head format hasn't fouled things up too much. Everyone is ranked in the same position as would be given by their fastest time with the exception of Noguchi and Garnbret who have switched between 4th and 5th ranked in that event.

[teestub]

Janja gets the Imperial Death March as her entrance music 🤣

[Wellsy]

Is Pilz going to "do an Austrian"

[abarro81]

With 2 climbers tied on 64 points, what is it that they use to split them?

[GraemeA]

With 2 climbers tied on 64 points, what is it that they use to split them?

I think the1st tie breaker is head to head, so Akiyo beat Alexsanra twice

[Aussiegav]

brilliant.   

[IanP]

With 2 climbers tied on 64 points, what is it that they use to split them?

I think the1st tie breaker is head to head, so Akiyo beat Alexsanra twice

No complaints on the results, winner obvious and seriously impressive, some excitement to the end for the medal positions but the think the right cimbers overall probably got them.

However I hope we never see this scoring method again - if Miho had managed to get above Akiyo and score 4th in the lead we would have the position where the bronze went to Aleksandra Miroslaw after she'd spent 2 rounds pretty much unable to get off the ground!

[petekitso]

Amazing - I may have something in my eye . . .

(Glad speed will be a separate event next time round though)

[Will Hunt]

For those who might be interested, the final results are as follows. These may differ from the official results which use this thing called speed climbing to help figure out the numbers. Not sure what that's all about? 

1. Garnbret (1) [1*1]
2. Raboutou (12) [2*6]
3. Seo (14) [7*2]
4 Nonaka (15) [3*5] Fewer zone attempts than Pilz in bouldering.
5 Pilz (15) [5*3]
6. Noguchi (16) [4*4]
7. Jaubert (42) [6*7]
8. Miroslaw (64) [8*8]


I must say I enjoyed all that immensely. Looking forward to Paris.

[User deactivated.]

For those who might be interested, the final results are as follows. These may differ from the official results which use this thing called speed climbing to help figure out the numbers. Not sure what that's all about? 

1. Garnbret (1) [1*1]
2. Raboutou (12) [2*6]
3. Seo (14) [7*2]
4 Nonaka (15) [3*5] Fewer zone attempts than Pilz in bouldering.
5 Pilz (15) [5*3]
6. Noguchi (16) [4*4]
7. Jaubert (42) [6*7]
8. Miroslaw (64) [8*8]


I must say I enjoyed all that immensely. Looking forward to Paris.

In a fair and just world!

[IanP]

For those who might be interested, the final results are as follows. These may differ from the official results which use this thing called speed climbing to help figure out the numbers. Not sure what that's all about? 

1. Garnbret (1) [1*1]
2. Raboutou (12) [2*6]
3. Seo (14) [7*2]
4 Nonaka (15) [3*5] Fewer zone attempts than Pilz in bouldering.
5 Pilz (15) [5*3]
6. Noguchi (16) [4*4]
7. Jaubert (42) [6*7]
8. Miroslaw (64) [8*8]


I must say I enjoyed all that immensely. Looking forward to Paris.

 , but still no need for multiplying rubbish (why should Seo be above Nonako or Pilz.  Just add the scores and if scores are equal then person with highest best placing wins.

1. Garnbret (2) [1+1]
2. Raboutou ( [2+6]
4 Nonaka ( [3+5] Fewer zone attempts than Pilz in bouldering.
5 Pilz ( [5+3]
6. Noguchi ( [4+4]
3. Seo (9) [7+2]
7. Jaubert (13) [6+7]
8. Miroslaw (16) [8+8]

[Wellsy]

Multiplying is relatively exciting. If there was a format where the comp was three lead walls, ranking multiplied as they have at the olympics, that'd be fucking sweet.

[Will Hunt]

For those who might be interested, the final results are as follows. These may differ from the official results which use this thing called speed climbing to help figure out the numbers. Not sure what that's all about? 

1. Garnbret (1) [1*1]
2. Raboutou (12) [2*6]
3. Seo (14) [7*2]
4 Nonaka (15) [3*5] Fewer zone attempts than Pilz in bouldering.
5 Pilz (15) [5*3]
6. Noguchi (16) [4*4]
7. Jaubert (42) [6*7]
8. Miroslaw (64) [8*8]


I must say I enjoyed all that immensely. Looking forward to Paris.

 , but still no need for multiplying rubbish (why should Seo be above Nonako or Pilz.  Just add the scores and if scores are equal then person with highest best placing wins.

1. Garnbret (2) [1+1]
2. Raboutou ( [2+6]
4 Nonaka ( [3+5] Fewer zone attempts than Pilz in bouldering.
5 Pilz ( [5+3]
6. Noguchi ( [4+4]
3. Seo (9) [7+2]
7. Jaubert (13) [6+7]
8. Miroslaw (16) [8+8]

Suits me.

Do we know yet how Paris will be worked out and how ties might be broken? Seems like with multiplication or addition there's  a good chance of seeing ties with only two disciplines. Have looked on the IFSC website but can't see anything.

[petejh]

Do we know yet how Paris will be worked out and how ties might be broken? Seems like with multiplication or addition there's  a good chance of seeing ties with only two disciplines. Have looked on the IFSC website but can't see anything.

A speed climb.

[Will Hunt]

Do we know yet how Paris will be worked out and how ties might be broken? Seems like with multiplication or addition there's  a good chance of seeing ties with only two disciplines. Have looked on the IFSC website but can't see anything.

A speed climb.

Slowest wins, right? Right?!

[SA Chris]

I must say I enjoyed all that immensely. Looking forward to Paris.

Me too, looks like break dancing might be included.

Bouldering was more exciting than men's interesting to see Jessica P the only one to figure out the facing out start to the 2nd Prob, it's a common one in the WCs surely.

[Nutty]

If you gave points based on performance relative to the winner of each discipline that would surely only punish someone like Jakob where he won but only by a narrow margin. It would essentially put more value on being mediocre across all 3 disciplines than being  really good in any single event.

Was Jakob's margin small - seemed significantly better than Ondra to me? It'd depend how you assigned points, but as in Lead it gets harder as you go up the wall, a difference of one hold near the top should maybe count for more than a difference of one hold lower down. I'm sure points could be allocated on some sort of exponential/log formula to account for this. Similar with speed, each decrease in time by a hundredth of a second is harder than the last.

I've been thinking about this far too much (especially for a combined event that looks set to be scrapped), but having a play around with the numbers I think a points system like this could work:

1. Each event has a max score of 100 points (could be any number really, but 100 is a nice round number).
2. Points are summed (not multiplied) across the events for a maximum possible score of 300 points.
3. Points are assigned based on relative performance to the event winner in speed and lead and performance relative to the best performer on each individual problem in bouldering.
4. Lead points are calculated for each competitor by the following formula:

Lead points = 100 x e^(-(1-(H_c/H_w))

where H_c is the hold the competitor reached and H_w is the hold the winner reached

5. Speed points are based on time (not head-to-head) are calculated for each competitor by the following formula:

Speed points = 100 x e^(1-(T_c/T_w))

where T_c is the competitor's speed time and T_w is the winner's speed time.

6. Bouldering would be similar to lead, but with the points assigned per problem for each competitor:

Boulder problem points = 100/n x e^(-(1-(H_c/H_w))

where n is the number of problems in the event (e.g. 3), H_c is the hold the competitor reached on the problem and H_w is the hold the best performer reached on the problem. Obviously some consideration needed for what counts as a 'hold' if you're using a volume for muliptle hand-movements, maybe 'move' is a better description - number of moves into a problem could be determined by comparison to the ideal beta.

Advantages are that competitors don't get disproportionately rewarded/punished for minor performance differences against rivals, differences at the top of the event are rewarded more than those in the middle and bottom and bouldering perfomance is better rewarded (i.e. you'd get some value for every move you successfully make). Disadvantages are the maths, but that's easily resolved with a computerised scoring system - it's not like there aren't load of events with inscrutable points systems!

[Fultonius]

Just watching it on BBC catch up now. One Q I've had about speed - why do they all hang of the first hold before clipping in?

Always seems like a recipe for distaster fi you're training, as you could easily then forget to clip in?

[36chambers]

Just watching it on BBC catch up now. One Q I've had about speed - why do they all hang of the first hold before clipping in?

Always seems like a recipe for distaster fi you're training, as you could easily then forget to clip in?

is it so they can put the pressure plate thing, that they start off, in the right place?

[Fultonius]

Just watching it on BBC catch up now. One Q I've had about speed - why do they all hang of the first hold before clipping in?

Always seems like a recipe for distaster fi you're training, as you could easily then forget to clip in?

is it so they can put the pressure plate thing, that they start off, in the right place?

I had wondered that, but then a few didn't even stand on the plate. 

[SA Chris]

Just watching it on BBC catch up now. One Q I've had about speed - why do they all hang of the first hold before clipping in?

Always seems like a recipe for distaster fi you're training, as you could easily then forget to clip in?

is it so they can put the pressure plate thing, that they start off, in the right place?

What I always assumed

[Bradders]

Good final. Amazing domination by Garnbret. Gutted for Raboutou, feel like some of the setting didn't suit her being so small tbh. She looked like she had plenty in the tank so if she hadn't had that foot slip.... lovely scenes at the end though.

However, pretty disturbing that Miroslaw was one point away from getting a bronze medal.

[SA Chris]

Thought the original intent of the multipliers was to give the speeders a better chance of medalling and it certainly did that. She was out of her depth in the bouldering but I would have thought she'd have a got a little bit further in the lead.

[Will Hunt]

She was out of her depth in the bouldering but I would have thought she'd have a got a little bit further in the lead.

She got to the 4th clip in qualifying so 3rd clip is about right for the final? She obviously didn't expect to get too far herself - she was the only one not to bother bringing out a pair of binoculars.