Quote from: gme on August 05, 2021, 06:33:51 pmIt’s not wrong and definitely not stupid. People enjoy the skateboarding but don’t get it as a sport. BMX split as some of it is racing, which is far more exciting than the freestyle stuff. Plus all of them have speed. For the general public Bouldering is a shit watch unfortunately skating, bmx, diving are not.They looked like those circus elephants who have been trained to ride a tiny bike.
It’s not wrong and definitely not stupid. People enjoy the skateboarding but don’t get it as a sport. BMX split as some of it is racing, which is far more exciting than the freestyle stuff. Plus all of them have speed. For the general public Bouldering is a shit watch unfortunately skating, bmx, diving are not.
Just caught up with the final. Exciting?…yes…in a lottery kind of way I guess. Satisfying?…no.Normally the excitement comes from the fact that a good performance puts that individual higher up the leader board and potentially into a medal position. Not just switches around all the other results below them in a seemingly random way.Oh, and that zone on Boulder 3 should have been one hold higher, as it looked piss up to it then a stopper move which only Ondra held. If someone can maybe pass that on to Percy?
Now we're talking! Tenner on Dumbo, cut his ears off for improved aerodynamics.
The gold medal has gone to the 5th fastest speed climber, the worst boulderer, and the 4th best lead climber.Take a bow, Sport Climbing!
The only way I can think to fix this would be to make it a flash comp, which might be a nightmare to set for but would mean everything is much more immediate and fast paced, yet also easier to follow and still a great way to select the very best athlete on the day.
One person out at a time, 10 mins on the clock, 6 problems to try, only tops matter 🔥🔥🔥
Speed is at least still climbing. In triathlon the Brownlees have to excel at riding a bike, swimming across a lake and running, three dissimilar events. Daly Thompson is lauded as an Olympic great for being good at chucking a spear a long way across a field, running fast around the track and being quite good at jumping over a high bar amongst other daft challenges.
I think the setters have nailed it.
In triathlon the Brownlees have to excel at riding a bike, swimming across a lake and running, three dissimilar events.
In regards to changing the bouldering format, does it really need to be exciting?
Bouldering is going to get lost on the watching public though unless it changes to flash or some other tweak to make it watchable - this shouldn't be a surprise when you think what bouldering's like in real life, who would pay to watch someone stand around staring at their fingers and do two moves every 3 minutes. Worse than sailing.
Quote from: petejh on August 05, 2021, 11:03:18 pmBouldering is going to get lost on the watching public though unless it changes to flash or some other tweak to make it watchable - this shouldn't be a surprise when you think what bouldering's like in real life, who would pay to watch someone stand around staring at their fingers and do two moves every 3 minutes. Worse than sailing.I quite like watching sailing actually, but then I used to do lots of it as a teenager. Itd be amazing if the windsurfing could have a wave sailing component as that's a bloody amazing spectator sport, but it would have to be held in Hawaii or Portugal every time...
I concur with the general thought that the final was very exciting, but mostly because of how much maths I had to do in my head to work out the various options of who would podium depending on where Jacob fell off. Yay for the maths olympics!
Side note: I'm sure there was some better beta on B3? There were a couple of feet holds not being used, and no one really tried a different sequence? Unless it was just poor conditions?
OK, the info you've all been asking for...intended beta for men's B3. Percy Bishton: "Flip left hand on the pinch and go again with right hand. Maybe observation isn’t helpful sometimes if they all decide on a whack sequence. But that’s the routesetting game!"
Reading public comments below newspaper articles, there are a lot of very positive reactions (including how physically difficult it looks, something I've always felt non-climbers struggle to get) but bouldering is almost universally viewed as extremely dull. It seems to be speed and lead the general public like.
My goodness me Garnbret v Raboutou was tight! I'm still convinced that head to head makes no sense from the perspective of the overall competition and scoring etc. but it's certainly exciting. Important result for Garnbret. She may well need that 5th place, but importantly also knocks Raboutou down to 7th at best.