[shark]

11.2-4 average 157.8 down 0.9lbs

M. Early AM Tor. Met Matthew. Ben and Nick there. Pretty quiet otherwise. Muggy but with a breeze. 3 tie ins on AM. Second and third goes jumared to top of Prow pitch one and tried from there. Did the headwall in overlapping halves. Doing well on it but still need to do some micro beta sequence and body position refinement around second bolt. After rebooted Obscene Toilet which I’d been meaning to do for some time.

T.

W. Early AM Tor. Met Matthew again. Fresher but less breeze than Monday. Got hot later on. Three goes up AM jumaring up to headwall again on goes two and three. Ironed out the beta tweaks on first go. Next two goes linked from Prow belay to hard last move below BM belay with one fall only.
PM Met Fiend in Chee Dale. He was on Blockheads again so I had a couple of plays on the groove to it’s right. Think it would be worth while to stick a couple of bolts in as an alternative variation Blockheads (Blockgroovehead?). Then did some nettle bashing, abseiling, drilling, top roping and jumaring in the sun to reequip an old E4 6b of mine from 30 years ago - Ghee Force. Wasted at the end - was out for 11 hours all told. Went to bed early tired and achey.

T.

F. Early AM at Tor. Met Mark20. Lower temp but muggy. Two tie ins on AM but still tired from weds so it didn’t go well. Mark’s shoulder also playing up. Decamped to Two Tier. Finished equipping Ghee Force and we both redpointed it. 7a+ and worth two stars so should be popular.

S.

S. 9 mile group walk around Monsal Trail. Bumped into 205Chris at Rubicon


Still troubled by the last boulder problem move on AM and have decided it would be tactically more sensible to try finishing up Crucifixion instead which is Cross N’Angry also 8a+.

Off to Llandudno again on Tuesday. Forecast keeps changing though.

[Duma]

M - normal office hours at work. Quick hour on circuits at UCR in eve before pub for pre bday drinks
T - nothing, 12hr shift. 44 times round the sun.
W - nothing, 12hr shift
T - pm Ansteys. Arrived at one, still hot despite cloudy forecast. Got clips in tuppence, only brief play on the moves as it was still hot, felt hard though. Next goes pretty disappointing, couldn't make 1st crux work going over with lh, did the move twice going rh but didnt link any of the preceding moves. 2nd crux couldn't do the move at all. 3rd crux did a few times including a few moves into it and up to the jugs, but could only make the move via a pretty full on dyno which I'm not sure is feasible at the end of all the hard climbing. Stripped it and went for a swim, then dogged up Just Revenge as Lily had the clips in, this is ace, keen to come back for it.
F - TCA pm, moonboard. Was hoping to work out a vague replica for Tuppence crux 2 but couldn't make anything suitable. Ended up just doing a bunch of 6C+ to 7A+. Flashed a few so happy enough. Then nightshift.
S - nothing, 12hr nightshift
S - nothing, 12hr nightshift

71kg

Bit deflated with Thursday's effort on Tuppence tbh, nothing new discovered and went backwards on middle crux. It was hot but still. Not used to trying things that are actually above my current level I guess.

[tommytwotone]

Goal: Font 7a outdoors

M: 5km run on lunch.
T: LSD eve - messed up and caught them on reset day / eve so a) it was pretty busy and b) all I had left were a load of projects I'd discounted as too hard. Went to work putting a proper effort into a V6 I'd struggled on, and surprised myself by ticking it after a lot of goes at the deadpoint-y crux.
W: Lunchtime run planned, killed by being dragged into a meeting at short notice.
T: LSD eve - bash round the new stuff - usual high standard, bumped up this time by a fair few barn-door-y, off-balance, heartbreaker-super-droppable last moves. Spent a lot of time falling off said heartbreakers.
F: Nowt.
S: Nowt.
S: Father's Day stuff AM, then Shipley Glen with the kids PM - they climbed loads, then just as I got my chance the wind promptly dropped and the midges came out. Sacked it off in favour of a beer and a pizza at Salt Brewery en route home.

[Will Hunt]

Tu - Brimham trad pottering. Led Hatter's Groove and Lithos which I haven't done before. Seconded Desperation Crack.

F - After work Glen sesh. The aim was to do the Glen 100 but in the end we were thwarted by filthy humid conditions, eventual rain as the humidity won out, and (frankly) boredom. It's an interesting challenge because you invariably have to do a lot of easy highballing without pads - you get nice and focused. But packing in 100 climbs along the edge means you tend to be climbing everything that you can below about Font 6B (that's about my limit anyway) which means the climbing is very samey at times. We got to 50 problems and called it a day and it soon rained afterwards. The Alternative Circuit is much better in my view.

S - family day. Was knackered by the afternoon and probably would have sacked off climbing but I'd arranged to go out. Kilnsey with Bradders. Did some pulls on the fingerboard then dogged up Metal Guru to get the clips in. Tested out a Tanya Approved kneebar which improves the intercrux rest. Nick had some alternative beta but it didn't seem to make much difference. Redpointed first go of the night and it felt reasonably steady. Very glad to see the back of it. Dogged up Sidekick and should have redpointed later but for some self-inflicted punterdom.

S - felt hungover most of the day, despite not drinking. Probably due to kid-induced tiredness.

[User deactivated.]

Had a full week off work so I decided to sack off all training and just climb for a change.

M -

T -

W - Nearcliff wood. Went straight to the hueco boulder and it's an impressive block - shame about the fire damage and soot! I started on heart of darkness (7A+) which I thought might be flashable as it's burly climbing on big holds, but ended up taking quite a few goes. After getting through the crux I went for the highball finish and topped out on big holds. Although it gets easier further up, it's still droppable and really adds to the experience. It really should top out as standard this one.

heart of darkness:

Next did white rabbit stand (6C), depth hunter (7A), then headed down to the viaduct boulder and did breach of the the peace (7B, but I thought 7A+) which had really good movement. Tried to pull on red devil (7C) but was powered out.

breach of the peace -

Not a bad day for 26 degrees C!

T -

F - Absolutely hammering it down so went to have a look at the cave in Lobwell Wood, hoping it would be dry. It was a bit damp from condensation but usable so I started having a play on the roof problems 'source of secrets' and 'kenzoku'. Found it hard to commit to the moves with only 1 pad and no spotter after falling about 8 feet onto my back, and full commitment is needed to get the heel to stick. Definitely one i'd like to return for as it's one of the most impressive roofs i've seen.

photo of source of secrets - https://ibb.co/VY0zCpb

S - Nearcliff Wood. Came to try and do Red Devil (7C), but only managed it in two halves before having to call the session short as the pocket was eating the side of my finger and I had no tape. Feels like another session should see it off and will hopefully be my first of the grade on lime.

Called in at the nearby earth quarry just to see if it looks any good and midnight caller (7C) has rapidly climbed my list of 'next problems to get on'.

S -

[RobK]

M – Couldn’t find a partner and didn’t fancy bouldering so chucked the mountain bike in the van and went for a lap of the red trail at Llandegla. A good evening.

T – Got my first vaccine after work. Had an offer of a catch afterwards but didn’t fancy the drive or the risk of suddenly feeling awful. Squeezed a 25 minute run in before dinner instead.

W – Arm a bit achey so nothing much. Some press ups and pull ups while watching the football.

T – Rest.

F – Start of a long weekend in Yorkshire. Arrived at Goredale to find multiple people on every line, boo. Didn’t fancy pushing our way in so went and tried The Cement Garden 7c over the other side. Really enjoyed this up to the sharp hard crux and horrible traddy runout, so bailed! By the time we got back down Cave Route Right 7b+ was free so we hopped on that for a bolt to bolt. So good! I thought once you reached the base of the groove it would be all over but for me the crux felt like the higher section of that just before getting into the actual easy climbing. One redpoint go but I was absolutely gone, didn’t even get to the first crux boulder! One to come back for, hopefully sooner rather than later.

S – A calamity of errors involving busy crags and leaking car coolant meant we drove passed Yew Cogar and Kilnsey before ending up at Loup Scar of all places. Actually a fantastic place to spend the day. Started with the obvious Slap Happy 7a+ which was absolutely marvelous jug hauling. Ended up doing it second go after getting a wrong hold on the flash at the end of the steep section but quite glad, as I got to do it all again. We thought about more climbing but opted to spend the rest of the day messing about in the river in the sun, which was actually a great shout. Cracking day ending with a slap up meal at the Craven Arms.

S – Headed over to Troller’s Gill and crossed our fingers the midges wouldn’t be too bad. They were out in full force, but only while belaying, which was fine with a net. Decided to try and mop up the stuff on the right hand end I hadn’t done. Started with a flash of Barguest 7a (I had done the direct a few years back). Looks contrived from the ground but the traverse moves are actually really good, arguably better than the direct. I then somehow managed to get the wall free for a go at Sweet Nothing 7a+ (https://www.instagram.com/p/CQYCA52DpfL/) which is a rising traverse crossing the whole buttress. A flash in the sense I did it first go, although not much new climbing to be had. Very fun and definitely worth doing. Really pleased with my head game today too, probably the first time this year I’ve actually felt fully in the sport zone and not even vaguely worried about falling.

A slow start to the week but a really good Yorkshire weekend is always good for the soul. The psyche for climbing is definitely returning after a few chilled weeks. Maybe I’ll even get back to LPT soon.

[Bradders]

M - Kilnsey with Rich W. Lap on Directissima to warm up, then dogging go up Metal Guru putting the clips in. Found the start nails and bunched, but did the pockets sequence fine onto the ledge. Got lost at the top and ended up traversing off to the belay of Sideshow to lower off. Resorted to texting Will to request some beta. Couple more goes up and did it in four sections including lots of working the moves.

T - rest

W - AM before work FB session, after warm up 6x 10s half crimp Lattice edge. Better than last week. Did first rep +30kg, 2nd and 3rd +27kg but then had to drop back to +25kg after failing the 4th rep. At late lunchtime did an hour on the board doing weakness problems. Sweltering. Pretty poor on crossovers which was disappointing having done it 3x in a row last week, but at least managed the easiest version of my undercuts problem for only the second time.

T - Kilnsey with Spidermonkey. Another lap on Directissima to warm up, then up Metal Guru again. Poor conditions and a memory failure meant I re-opened a flapper from Monday's session. Skin felt awful throughout, wet and sliding all over the holds. Four or five goes up including coming off the starting boulder problem again. Last go up felt absolutely knackered and had a false start falling off the first Groove again,  but after lowering down did it in two halves, to the first hard move of the second crux and from there to the top. Spent far too long trying a sequence someone else had mentioned to me on the pockets section which turned out to be much harder for me.

F - rest

Sa - AM short FB session, warmed up then did 5x 6s 10mm half crimp hangs +15kg with 90 sec rests.

Sa - PM Kilnsey with Will. Great conditions, 9/10. Amazing scenes at the crag as well, I didn't get there until gone half 5 and in the short space of time thereafter I saw several people redpoint their projects. Inspiring stuff. First go up Metal Guru fluffed the start and came off but got through 2nd go after a short rest on the ground, using a different sequence that felt 10x easier than what I had been doing. Worked my way upwards from there warming up. Will did it, and next tie in my foot popped having got most of the way through the second crux despite feeling great. Had a rest then did it, felt steady away. Warmed down with a lap up Directissima with the crag to ourselves. Wonderful.

Su - evening fingerboard to warm up, 3x 5r 6/10 repeaters half crimp Lattice edge +20kg, then a couple of the same front 3 drag at bodyweight. Then a very decent 45/50 mins on the board, did 4 medium problems that I've struggled with in recent (hot) sessions. Followed this with 8x 1 min on, 1 min off foot on campus ladders. Better than last week, more in the tank at the end. Finished with 3x 5 mins on, 3 mins off easy circuits.

Great week, my second ever sport 7c in the bag and done quite quickly really, plus still getting the training done. Didn't do any of the planned conditioning but I don't mind swapping it for an extra session out!

[duncan]

Great stuff Bradders.

M - Stronghold - ‘5c’ circuits (5 mins on x 6). Got pumped, trashed skin a bit less than last time by employing some preemptive taping. Still had to stop because of skin pain as much as anything else. A small improvement.
T - Fingerboard max.ish hangs. Pull-ups for speed. 10km walk.
W - 10km walk.
T - Stronghold - Bouldering. Managed some of the V4/5s. Still failing on the V5s. A small improvement.
F - 10km walk.
S - Bodyweight shoulder stuff: handstands, side planks. Drove to Manchester to put the duncan sound system into storage at my brother's place. Family bonding over gentle walk, pint and football.
S - Chee Dale Cornice with csl. I used to climb at Chee Tor and Two Tier a lot in my youth but was last here in about 1981 when the Cornice had three trad. routes and some hideous aid climbing. I remember looking at the line of Monumental thinking ‘this is the future’. Can I count this as a new crag? (number 6 for 2021) It feels like a very different place now. The dale seems a lot lusher and greener and the RP2s and decaying pegs have been replaced by lovely fat glue-ins. Tried Armistice Day, got the moves fairly quickly, and didn’t feel too nervous taking working falls, which is all good. Had a couple of redpoint goes but ran out of gas after about 60 seconds which wasn’t quite enough to get me through the crux. Conor despatched it swiftly. Warmed down on Max Pact; Max Wall is definitely new crag number 6 (or 7).

A good week: got outside, felt like I was making small gains, and the tweaks are under control. Armistice Day is a bit steeper and a lot more burly than my usual fare and I feel appropriately battered today. It was good fun and I should try to get back on it fairly soon when it's a little cleaner, I'm a little fitter, and I still have some recollection of my sequences.

Not sure what my aims for the year are, mainly trying to move out of London, recover from covid, and enjoy my climbing. Hoping for a 7b+ and trying some harder trad. routes come September so continuing to train both ends of the spectrum.

[yetix]

Liam, how dry is nearcliffe and lobwell? I'm keen to check out in the heart of darkness sit and red devil fairly soon and Lobwell a little later into the summer.

Nice work Nick!!


M: rest
T: rest
W: Hartland - couple of hours on a condensed end is Nigh, could do all but 2 moves but repeatedly greased off on those moves, would like to try revolution is coming as it looks far more my style really.
T: Tintagel - Managed the Apprentice, tried AWOL and got the moves quickly but it went into the sun and the crux move into the stand felt a little painful to link. Did All Along the Watchtower first go before leaving.


F: scoped out Godfrey, keen to get on Shipwrights and Master  Shipwrights there
S: Hartland - Carnage Wall, managed Carnage in a few goes, came off the last dropable move on Corridors of Power as my heel toe pinged out as I was adjusting. Went down to clinical edge after with my GF and managed that too.

S: Biblins - managed pop to the top and the bulge in a couple of goes, had a look at peckits trav but felt too spanked to try.

Good trip in the van exploring new crags, lots to go back for and didn't really spend long on anything, would like to target corridors, AWOL and Shipwrights when I next head back and possibly work on some moves on Rev if I feel I'm in a decent run of form

[User deactivated.]

Liam, how dry is nearcliffe and lobwell? I'm keen to check out in the heart of darkness sit and red devil fairly soon and Lobwell a little later into the summer.

Both were mostly dry for me but some of the holds were a bit soapy from condensation. Frequent brushing kept them manageable. The sit moves on HoD are bloody awful! polished, soapy, sooty holds. I couldn't seem to get off the ground and quit trying after only a couple of goes but it would be a brilliant line from sit to top!

[yetix]

I've heard it condenses easily there, is the walk in short enough to take a few fans and blast those start holds?

[User deactivated.]

Yes the walk into Lobwell is only around 15 mins.

[spidermonkey09]

M - some light fingerboarding and stability hangs in an effort to shore up weak shoulders. Very poor performance on the stability hangs, so going to be more consistent with this now. Jabbed in the evening.

T - Depot. Slightly sore arm but manageable. Decent session on the board. Went home feeling wiped.

W - rest.

T - Kilnsey with Bradders. Linked from the deck on Urgent through the press only to fall off at the deadpoint move twice. Sorted slightly better sequence on this which seems more reliable. Top half felt hard in poor conditions so was happy enough with the new high point.

F - rest. Wasted my evening watching England pass the ball sideways.

S - Kilnsey with Anna G. Mint conditions, strong breeze and cool temps. Fell off deadpoint on first go on Urgent, inspected big holds in corner and was disgusted with myself that I hadn't already been using them to rest on. My own fault for listening to other peoples beta too much and not working it out for myself. Next go recovered in the corner and immediately went through the deadpoint move and up into the top undercut traverse. Felt extremely pumped but got further than expected before coming off. Next go got through deadpoint again but pumped out almost immediately. Pleased to get through it twice, getting closer.

S - quick hit at Victoria Cave. Did the Thinking of Victory linkup which was fun, but midges were descending and the sun started to bake the crag so bailed for a swim at Stainforth Force which was great. Observed a group carrying two large bags of rubbish out with them and commented to girlfriend 'good to see people taking their rubbish away with them.' Then I noticed they had left two still hot barbecues with loads of meat still on them behind.  Fortunately another group had some decency and helped us cool them down and pack them away into their rubbish bags. Headed off feeling like we'd contributed to the greater good, only to notice the original group had simply abandoned the two large bags at the footpath gate. We carried it back to the bins in Stainforth and gingerly disposed of it given it contained food, broken glass and worst of all, nappies!  Fucking cunts; sadly there is no cure for it. What possesses people to desecrate such a beautiful place like that?

Good week on the climbing front; new high point on Urgent, which is taking longer than I'd hoped but is still fun. Hopefully I get it done in the next few sessions as I'll be climbing elsewhere in July. 

[cheque]

S - felt hungover most of the day, despite not drinking. Probably due to kid-induced tiredness.

Dehydration too probably. When I quit drinking I thought “I’ll never have that hungover feeling again”- turns out it’s very easy to achieve without alcohol as it’s just dehydration combined with tiredness  .

[Bradders]

Liam, how dry is nearcliffe and lobwell? I'm keen to check out in the heart of darkness sit and red devil fairly soon and Lobwell a little later into the summer.

Both were mostly dry for me but some of the holds were a bit soapy from condensation. Frequent brushing kept them manageable. The sit moves on HoD are bloody awful! polished, soapy, sooty holds. I couldn't seem to get off the ground and quit trying after only a couple of goes but it would be a brilliant line from sit to top!

The HoD Sit is a weird one. I have only ever done the crux move going left hand into an undercut once, but luckily it was on a go from the start and I didn't then fall off in the stand! I then spent ages trying to repeat it thinking I'd do the right exit and couldn't do it again.

Walk in to Nearcliff is 5 mins if you get parked in the best place.

[Nibile]

Power Club
Mon - torrid. Weights.
Tue - 30' light boxing bag.
Wed - clean 60 60 70 65 65 5x5, easy. Happy.
Thu - rest. Kind of...
Fri - EMOM 30' clean x5, high pulls x5 50 kg, lock off 15" x10. Torrid. EMOM 30" finisher pull ups x5 x10. Brutal.
Sat - weights upper back.
Sun - light boxing bag.

[Will Hunt]

for me the crux felt like the higher section of that just before getting into the actual easy climbing

Yep, this bit didn't feel easy. Dave described it as "every third hold is good and it's not obvious how to get between them". Combined with the dust there I'd say it's mean. There is a knee bar somewhere in that section, though I can't remember enough about it to remember where it is now.

[RobK]

There is a knee bar somewhere in that section, though I can't remember enough about it to remember where it is now.

Yes someone said this as we were leaving. Keen to get back soon and put it all together.

[gollum]

W/C 14/6/21

M - Yoga, Big Depot, density hangs, pulls, run, stretching, abs/core, cardio
T - Campus, abs, max hangs, auto belay routes, chest, strength for runners, yoga and stretching, cardio
W - Run, abs/core, bike, yoga and stretching
T - Bike, stretching, strength for runners, abs, yoga
F - Recovery run, bike, abs, yoga and stretching

M - Start the day with yoga for hamstrings.
Go to the Big Depot with the plan of doing some bouldering and some rouutes, but never make it further than the bouldering. Entertaining session though.
Finish with density hangs and some scapular exercises.
Gym on the way home. Start with high reps pulls on the pull down machine. Move on to same exercise with more weight for 3x6. Next is single arm pull downs, moving weight through to Tricep press. Next is one arm locks. Deadlifts to finish.
Out for a run when I get home, followed by stretching.
Five minute plank, levers, weighted hollow bodies, hyperextensions and roll outs for abs and core.
Half an hour on the bike to chill out.

T - Go back to the Big Depot. Start on campus board for ladders which go okay. Do planks in the rest periods. Move on to max hangs for four sets. Finish with some compression hangs on the bouldering wall, although it’s not ideal for this exercise.
Have a session on the auto belays, which is good for flow and movement practice.
Gym on the way home. Chest exercises, start with bench, then decline bench then flys, finishing with floor compressions.
Do my strength for runners session next, followed by abs floor exercises.
Get gone and do yoga for hips and stretching for splits.
Later on have half an hour on the bike.

W - Wake up tired, so decide to have a relatively easy day. Half hour marathon pace run early in the morning before it gets too hot. Post run stretch. Achilles seems to be getting better all the time.
Into core with 5 minute plank, but leave it at that.
A solid hour on the bike, working hard for the first 45 and then less hard and cooling down for the last 15.
Yoga for shoulders including hangman that I now really enjoy. A lot of stretching; upper body, pancake, sciatic nerve and a lot of calf and Achilles stuff.

T - Good long ride on the bike, which felt tough towards the end of it, but pleased with the effort. Good stretch of legs afterwards.
Strength for runners session afterwards, plus floor routing for abs.
Later on do yoga session for my back.
Still feels very hot and makes me a bit weary.

F - Recovery run in the morning before it gets too hot. Post run stretch.
Good session on the bike working on endurance a bit.
Chilled out rollouts. Yoga for fingers, twists and feet and stretching for calves.

S - along run in the morning; positives/ heart rate lowish,  never really suffered, negatives - legs heavy, Achilles not so happy, couldn’t hold marathon pace.
Easy bike session afterwards.
Stretching for legs and yoga for fingers. Hard rollouts.

S - Good half hour on bike.
Easy rollouts. Yoga for abs and full body stretch.

Not the week I planned. Much less strength based and much more cardio base. Not a bad thing for a change and may continue along same vain next week.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Late again!

M: Routes @ Intake up to F6b with the GF - Felt shitty, the finger was sore, got cold and somehow developed a shoulder niggle mid-session which meant I couldn't raise my left arm over my head... Sacked it off and went home.
T: Routes @ Stoney - Didn't expect much as the shoulder was still sore in the AM but turned out fine, repeated a bunch of routes up to F6c and did some new ones... Nice!
W: Shoulders @ home - good to do these exercises again - nowt hard but definitely helps with the stability... Thankfully Monday's tweak seemed to have subsided.
T: AW with daughter - mostly belayed her, did some auto-belays up to F6c...
F: Nowt
S: Routes @ Horseshit - Back on the star quest - Did 5 routes, all starred and one of the F6c's that I've wanted to do for years...
S: Walk around WCJ up to the Tor, pint in the Anglers and back home for a slap-up feed  - Nice!

F6c week looking at that lot! Seem to be consolidating this as a consistent onsight grade that I'm unlikely to lob off which is helping the GF's confidence (even though I did take one unexpected lob.. oops!) Got a few big trad trips planned over the coming weeks so all this onsighting will surely stand me in good stead - watched a couple of guys on Excaliber @ Moat on Sunday and made me hanker for the redpoint life again, had a look at the start of BM again @ the Tor (been a while) - Made me feel a bit sick (the hangover didn't help!)... Finger seems to have settled and not sure wtf that shoulder thing was glad it was only short lived! Good week in the end!

[spidermonkey09]

Didn’t fancy pushing our way in so went and tried The Cement Garden 7c over the other side. Really enjoyed this up to the sharp hard crux and horrible traddy runout, so bailed!

I really enjoyed this when I did it, although I don't remember a runout; where was it? The crux was hard but once you did it and got below the overlap it was steady away to the chain if I remember rightly? Worth another look maybe as its a really good option when its cold on the other wall or really busy!

[RobK]

I really enjoyed this when I did it, although I don't remember a runout; where was it? The crux was hard but once you did it and got below the overlap it was steady away to the chain if I remember rightly? Worth another look maybe as its a really good option when its cold on the other wall or really busy!

Yeah the crux was hard but alright once I figured it out, just lost a bit more skin than I would have liked in doing so! I then thought getting established beneath the roof/overlap was actually quite hard too. It then looked a good 4 to 5 metres or so up the groove to the next bolt. I could very possibly have not spotted one. Very good climbing up to there though and I'm sure I will get back on it at some point, as you say it offers a very useful alternative. Looks like there are another few decent looking bolted lines over there too, Concrete Jungle Direct is the one to the left I think and then a couple of Mirage variations to the right.

[spidermonkey09]

I seem to remember the next bolt is on the sidewall of the groove so not immediately obvious. In any case once you are in the overlap as undercuts its pretty juggy to the chain, but still dropable. One for next time; I really rated it.

I believe Mirage is most commonly done these days basically from the start of Cement Garden, which is The Perfect Mirage. To do the original requires placing some wires I think? TPM looks good as well, never been on it but belayed a friend. Similar to Cement in that most of it is ok but the crux is hard.

[AJM]

There is a knee bar somewhere in that section, though I can't remember enough about it to remember where it is now.

Yes someone said this as we were leaving. Keen to get back soon and put it all together.

It was some time ago, but on Cave Right my recollection was a kneebar at the base of the headwall crack at about the point where Cave Left becomes nearby.

(I'm not sure if that's how you'd describe it, but my recollection from the ground was some climbing to a rest in a groove, then up and left to the base of this headwall crack, then up that with Cave Left gradually merging in, then an easier top groove)

Great route. That and Gates of Greyskull are probably my favourite UK 7b+s. Love to do Cave Left one day.

[Adam Lincoln]

I believe Mirage is most commonly done these days basically from the start of Cement Garden, which is The Perfect Mirage. To do the original requires placing some wires I think? TPM looks good as well, never been on it but belayed a friend. Similar to Cement in that most of it is ok but the crux is hard.

TPM is hard than original as the start is hard and more pumpy. 7bish? Crux is quite reachy.