[shark]

Average 159.8 down 2.7lbs

M. AM FB 1 set of recruitment pulls and speed pulls
PM Tor. Beautiful sunny day. 11degrees. Andy Cave there when I arrived Rich Heap and Andy Coish turned up after. Spent most of my time re-working the throw move and mooching around in the sun. Can do it the more static way that everyone does now but need to get it more dialled in. Could be a game changer if I can as it would make it a much higher% move but for time being more powerful way is better.

T. PM went on old throw move on board - my best replica of the Oak throw. Cant remember how long since last went on it. Took a bit to warm into it then did 5 sets of 3 slipping off pinch on last throw of 5th set. Tried a 4th go on each set but shut down and couldn’t move each time. Cant remember ever being this solid on it. Fast pull-ups with +16lb Chest to  bar 15x. Faded big style on last set. 3x3 squat jumps. 5x5 fast deadlifts at 70kg
Eve. Had an experiment with foot on campusing on home board timing 3 secs a move on metolius rungs and crusher footholds. Less steep than office board but poorer handholds. Didn’t last long. Half a dozen sets between 8 and 16 moves. Going to do this regularly

W.

T. Lovely day. Too nice for a rest day especially with bad forecast for Friday. Tor. Tried Bens both from start and from pocket and pinch. Did ok. Held edge on throw twice from start - once with 3 fingers and once properly but crimp collapsed when I moved foot as was tired by then. Bumped into Darren H as packing up who gave me some interesting beta for the cross through which I’m keen to try next time

F. Round trip to Brizzle to get goat

S. AM FB  1 set of recruitment pulls and speed pulls. Chilly and breezy. Tor to try out new cross through beta. Busy - so different to mid week. Took a bit of experimenting to get it work and going to stick with it as feels higher% and should get slicker. Couple of goes from the start and felt good and latched edge on second go but just with 3 fingers. Could do with finding how to be more accurate. Headed over to Stanage to meet goat and Tom. Bummed that goat had set sights on the Buckstone as there’s fuck all for me there. Strung along and had a couple of futile attempts at dyno. Left them to it and headed up to High Neb. Soloed the Knutter and Travesties but felt a bit nervy on them. Tried Pigs Ear (E1 6a) which Id failed on BITD. Was hard to stay warm but doing ok in the mint connies but took a couple of awkward falls banging my coccyx once (still sore this morning) but still pissed off with myself to not committing to it which would have involved pulling on a glassy micro crimp and poor feet both of which felt like I could have popped off. Really could of done with a different pair of shoes,  an extra mat and a spot so got even more pissed off when I found that the boys had left the Buckstone but went elsewhere rather than join me. Went home in a foul mood. Should have stayed at the Tor.

S.

Good weight loss this week so might hit my -6lb target for March. Taken to taping tips for Bens. Wish someone would file the lip of the sharp slot/sidepull. Got giddy at prospect of going back to Malham and booked to go on Monday. Even better got report that Oak is dry. Hopefully feel strong on the moves but likely to lack route and session endurance and skin.

[RobK]

M - Full of cold.

T - Bit better but not up to any training.

W - Submaximal hangs (various weights from +15 to +25kg) to wake my fingers back up after a few days off. Then some easier board climbing repeating stuff using the big feet. 15 minutes stretching afterwards.

T - Max hangs at +29kg. Failure on last two reps. Happy with that for a new high weight. Then some wide pull ups but cut these short as left bicep was moaning. Finished with a very small amount of low intensity endurance just to keep moving, 4 x 1 on/2 off.

F - Warmed up by rescuing the cat from 20 feet up a tree in the back garden. Then headed to Parisella’s for the first time since the end of December when I dropped the last move of Rock Atrocity. Re-acquainted myself with the moves and had a few burns. Wasn’t feeling it at all though, I felt statically strong but just not moving well at all. Joined my mate working the moves on Cave Life. Not very inspiring really.

S - Back to the cave early doors. Who knew that if you get there early enough it’s bathed in sunshine. Lovely. Warming up I felt nice and bouncy but skin very sore. First burn on RA and I came off matching the flake. Last year I found that move really steady but I now struggle to engage my core on it. Maybe something to work on. Second go and I climbed dreadfully. Foot slips and cut looses everywhere. Somehow scraped my way through to the last move and just about held it together for the match. Very happy with that one! Sometimes things end up feeling pretty straightforward when you finally do them but this was an absolute battle. Went for a very windy walk on top of the Orme to bask in the glory. Was going to head home but then remembered about the Penmaenbach boulder not far away that I had been meaning to check out. Nice little spot. Got the two main lines of Jack Burton 7A/+ and Big Trouble in Little China 7B done pretty quickly. Don’t think I’ve had a bouldering day that big before.

S - Rest. Lots of DIY. The van now has a beer fridge. LI 30/30 hangs.

Feeling suitably tired this evening. Weather is looking good next week and I have Tuesday off work as well as the Easter weekend so hopefully some good time on rock mixed in with some quality sessions now I'm over the cold from the start of the week.

[gollum]

W/C 22/3/21

M - Abs/core, pull-ups, yoga and stretching, max hangs
T - Density Hangs, abs, yoga and stretching, compression
W - Yoga and stretching, abs, ancillary muscles, small edges and pinches
T - Abs/core, pull ups and shoulders, yoga and stretching, max pulls
F - Density hangs, abs, wrists, compression, yoga and stretching.
S - Abs, yoga and stretching
S - Abs, yoga and stretching

One hope for when I get outside: after all this effort, please don’t let me be more shit than when I started.

M - Five minute plank, front levers, hollow bodies, 60 rollouts.
OAP with bands to get the rep count up, 3x3 speed pulls, one arm locks at 90° and some scapular work.
Yoga for hamstrings and upper body stretching.
Max hangs for 10x5 seconds on each hand. Start at bodyweight and add 2k every 2 sets to finish at 8k, which felt hard but is doable.
Additional pancake stretching session later on.

T - Density hangs for 6 sets of 35 seconds. Plank for 3x3 minutes, floor routing and 50 rollouts.
Yoga for hips and stretching for splits and a bit of playing with handstands, which I’ve not done for a while, not that successful really.
Press-ups and isometric holds followed by prone Is, Ys and Ts all with long pauses.

W - Straight into yoga for shoulders in the morning, which is definitely coming along well. Follow this with some general upper body stretches.
100 roll outs which is very relaxing.
Do some bicep curls and triceps extensions for arms. Follow this with some wrist curls and rolls.
6x10 second on 6mm edges for small edge work and 6x6 second pulls on square block with Tindeq. Small edge stuff  is definitely feeling like less effort than it once did and the block stuff is just very consistent between sets.

T - Five minute plank, 5 sets of front levers  and 60 paused abs roll outs.
Weighted pull ups for 5x5, 30 second 90° lock offs, 3 sets of shoulder complex and finish scapular work.
Yoga for back and stretching for splits.
Max pulls for 10x10 seconds. A bit better than last week, so overall steady improvement.

F - Density hangs for 6x30 seconds, which. Feels very steady and good for my tendons. 3x3 min planks, floor routine and 80 steady abs roll outs.
Wrist curls and roles. Isometric compression holds for 3x20 seconds. Go on to 3x10 of prone TRX Is and then Ts. Finish with 3x20 press ups.
Today’s yoga is twists, hands and feet and stretching is for the upper body.
Later on, whilst a bit bored, o discover that o can do a wide grip compression exercise using the window frame and a medium width one using one of the door frames , so play with those a bit.

S - Standard Saturday morning 25 hard rollouts, stretching for splits and yoga for hands.

S - 50 easy rollouts, yoga for abs and flexibility for upper body. Easy day.

Now let’s see how it’s all gone. I’m pretty happy; fingers well trained, been consistent regarding strength work, kept stretching and feeling pretty light, but at the same time don’t think I’ve done too much, so fingers crossed.

[Will Hunt]

T - lunchtime hit to Ruin Bank Woods to inspect a trad height buttress. Threw a rope down the right arete and was alarmed at how hard it felt. Barely did any moves. Nails. Couldn't decide whether the left arete would climb well from looking at it. Appeared that it might become an exercise in scuttling off left which would have been poor. Time was running out so put the rope down it briefly and tried a few things. Felt hard but like there might be something there.

W - left arete wouldn't leave me alone so went out after work and spent quite a while brushing it. Found an undercut and a knee bar and figured out that the easiest sequence was pretty cool - allowing a reasonable passage up a steep bit of rock. Looked for gear which appeared to be disappointingly low but did find a slightly higher tiny slot for a cam. Did a few long links on it pulling the rope through the birdie as I went which was tough. The beta turned out to be burying the knee bar. Left the woods a very psyched man.

T - After work woods. Did the thing and the thing was good. Can't say I wasn't a little disappointed at how steady it felt with the beta all worked out and not trying to top rope myself up it. Probably needs a downgrade but in my defence I was trying to think how it might feel as an onsight, though if anyone repeats it it'll be because they've seen the viddy and have the beta 

Weekend spent digging out, dismantling, and disposing of the raised bed, ready for construction of the new one.

[Duma]

M - am 14 min fb. 12hr shift. Was going to run after but work overran and too late/knackered.
T - nothing, no work but exhausted all day, couldn't even be arsed with mini fb sesh.
W - nothing, only 8hr shift but busy with errands before and after.
T - Eve, forced myself onto board after 12hr shift as felt like I'd done very little this week. Pointless as expected really, knackered and sacked it after 40min.
F - Nothing, 12hr shift.
S - Nothing, errands and childcare.
S - Lunch gentle hour on mtb with daughter. Eve board, a little better but still struggling compared to a fortnight ago. Persevered and got a worthwhile session, including a new one I was very pleased with, but made no impact on any of my trickier benchmarks.

A week of too much work, too many errands, and too little psyche, but has improved this eve.

70 kg.

[Duma]

Good luck on your return Gollum!

[dunnyg]

STG: juju club. Do something every day!
MTG: 7a
LTG: 7c

Mon. Nowt

Tu. Caley. Got damped off what I was keen for. Fell off stuff on the 3 squirrels bouder. Can't do the hard move off any of them. Did something wierd to my fingers, but didn't notice til after.

Wed. Nowt.

Thurs. Punch bag session followed by 2.5km run, leg stretch

Fri. 1 hr board. Didn't warm up enough. Started naming holds and recording warm ups. Got a project for next week.

Sat. Hour or so on the local BMX track. Ace fun. I'll be back! Caley in the noon, doing steady stuff up to 6A. Tried the scone traverse but couldn't work out the drop down without dabbing. Did with dabs. Also tried chicken run at 7B. Felt desperate. The chicken traverse is also impossible at 6B!

Sun. Nada. Weather and DIY caused trouble.

Tweaked my fingers twice this week, which was frustrating, as was the satellite boulder being damp! Weather seems to be turning to sport season this week, so shifting goals accordingly.

[Carl]

More DIY sucking up my time! Even the fingerboard frame is depressingly low on the priority list.

One session on The Terrace on Tuesday, but only managed two attempts at the start before going through my left tip. Forgot to try it with cheating feet to get a feel for the movement too, ah well. Ended up trying the other moves, which weren't terrible but I felt pretty weak. Two taped tips probably not helping the friction! Managed a slightly longer link than last time, so we shall see if I can be arsed to have another session on it in the short term - may do some easy pottering until my skin is a bit tougher!

[teestub]

Weather seems to be turning to sport season this week, so shifting goals accordingly.

Some high temps earlier in the week but thurs and fri currently looking very promising for grit.

[dunnyg]

Maybe I should keep the faith a bit longer. If anyone has an easy method for once youve latched the top of juju club with one hand, that would be much appreciated...

[Bradders]

Maybe I should keep the faith a bit longer. If anyone has an easy method for once youve latched the top of juju club with one hand, that would be much appreciated...

Presume you've tried going again with the left before matching?

[dunnyg]

I was getting my left on the far right sloper and being unable to move.

[User deactivated.]

M - rest + mobility

T - am: 7,3 repeaters, 5x5 in half crimp and 5x5 open hand. First ever block of repeaters, adding 1.25kg per session.

Pm: iron cross (10 slow negatives), planche progressions (10 x 10s), weighted pistol squats, ankle weighted L-sits

W - rest + mobility

T - am: velocity pulls in half crimp, followed by max hangs in back 3 and 3 finger drag

Pm: Satellite boulder. Under a full moon was dry so I tried some of the moves. It's incredible, but I didn't get very far. Measured the dimensions, holds, etc and it's bang on 40 degrees so Im going to build a replica.

Drove over to hunters stones but got lost on the walk up and ended up at Norwood instead! Found the larchbow block which was really nice and did Pie R Squared quickly (maybe 7B?), then worked the extension 'archimedes' and fell off the last move a few times before my skin had worn through on the sharp rock. Hopefully I should finish this one quickly next time out. Its definitely not 7C+ but it's a nice sequence.

F - built a full moon training problem on my board. Rather than building an exact replica, I decided to use better holds to start with. The plan is to learn this easier version first, then each session gradually add weight using a weight vest, then gradually reduce the hold size until it's near enough an exact replica and at this point I should be strong enough to do it. It makes sense in my head!

S - am: repeaters in half crimp and open hand. 1.25kg increase

Pm: OAC (5x3), weighted handstand presses (5x3), Nordic curls, weighted superman plank, ring muscle ups for max reps

S - rest + mobility

[Coops_13]

Going to resume posting here. Eight weeks to the day since my A2 full rupture on R hand. Still not climbing but loading it most days under guidance of PT, progress is slow but positive. Back to being able to do pull-ups which is good, fat grips only... I also hit my heaviest weight ever (86.4kg) due to minimal activity and copious amounts of beer consumption. Past week and onwards to get back to fighting fit...

M: Density pickups 20mm 40s LH 40lb *4, RH 35lb *3 3 finger, 25lb *1 4 finger. 15 mins HIIT (Cardio, core, antag). LH Max Hangs - 25 mm, 7s hangs -50lb X1, -45lb X2, -40lb X2, -35lb X4.

T: Density pickups 20mm 40s LH 40lb *4, RH 35lb *2 3 finger, 25lb *2 HC. Legs. Leg press, calf raise, knee extension, hamstring curl. X15 *3sets. Single leg deadlift. Lower body stretching

W: RH recruitment pulls 5s on, 5s off X7. One set 3 finger, one set 4 finger. 10 press-up, 6 pull-up, 5 shoulder press, 5 bicep curl *5sets

T: Density pickups 20mm 40s LH 40lb *4, RH 35lb *1, 40lb *1 3 finger, 25lb *2 HC. LH Max Hangs - 25 mm, 7s hangs -45lb X2, -40lb X2, -35lb X4. 15 mins HIIT (Cardio, core, antag).

F: Legs. Leg press, calf raise, knee extension, hamstring curl. X15 *3sets. RDL - first time doing them, up to 165lb then 115lb X8 *3sets to work form. Squats up to 165lb X5 *3sets. Lower body stretching. Density pickups 20mm 40s LH 40lb *2, 45lb *2, RH 35lb *1, 40lb *1 3 finger, 25lb *2 HC.

S: 10 press-up, 8 pull-up, 5 shoulder press, 5 bicep curl *5sets. RH recruitment pulls 5s on, 5s off X7. One set 3 finger, one set HC.

S: Density pickups 20mm 40s LH 40lb *2, 45lb *2, RH 35lb *1, 40lb *1 3 finger, 25lb *2 HC. 15 mins HIIT (Cardio, core, antag). 2-mile walk up Gennesee Mountain, 200ft gain. LH Max Hangs - 25 mm, 7s hangs -45lb X2, -40lb X2, -35lb X3, -30lb X1. Roughly 0.5Kg off PB one-arm MH on L-side (given considerable post-injury mass)

Apologies for the dull, number-heavy post. Been like that for the past three weeks. Back to the PT on Tuesday for a re-test and view on next steps for the recovery.

[csl]

Apologies for the dull, number-heavy post.

I'm sure you'll be back to making us all jealous again soon enough 

[moose]

I was getting my left on the far right sloper and being unable to move.

My solution was, in a word, udgery. 

With LH on the furthest left sloper and left toe on one of the pair of little edges to the left.  I kept udging up off the RH rough gaston / crimp as much as possible - so my torso was grinding against the prow, went again twice with the left hand to a decent sloper, then RH to the first sloper (I think there's a little crease you can lay a finger along).  You can then bump the LH to an even better sloper.  It's easier after that but worth practicing the top out - I completely panicked when I got there and ended up smearing on lichen with my knees, trying to hoick a foot over the top!

[Bradders]

Measured the dimensions, holds, etc and it's bang on 40 degrees

Care to post these? My "replica" was really more "inspired by".

I was getting my left on the far right sloper and being unable to move.

My solution was, in a word, udgery. 

With LH on the furthest left sloper and left toe on one of the pair of little edges to the left.  I kept udging up off the RH rough gaston / crimp as much as possible - so my torso was grinding against the prow, went again twice with the left hand to a decent sloper, then RH to the first sloper (I think there's a little crease you can lay a finger along).  You can then bump the LH to an even better sloper.  It's easier after that but worth practicing the top out - I completely panicked when I got there and ended up smearing on lichen with my knees, trying to hoick a foot over the top!

Yep, this is how I do it.

[User deactivated.]

Measured the dimensions, holds, etc and it's bang on 40 degrees

Care to post these? My "replica" was really more "inspired by".

Here's the notes I took at the crag. I think the whole problem might be rotated a few degrees counterclockwise due to the sloping ground throwing my orientation off, but hopefully not enough to matter. I've had to set the final throw to the finish edge as an individual move lower down as I can't fit it all on!

40 degrees overhanging

Large foothold 30cm down 65cm left from start handhold

Crimp 1: 74cm up from start hold, to the right by 2-3cm, 10mm incut

Crimp 2: 70cm up from crimp 1, 12cm right. Approx 20mm flat edge with thumb catch

Foothold 2: up 80cm from foot 1 and left by 13cm. Approx 5mm

Finishing edge 150cm up from foothold 2 and right by a couple cm

Intermediate good ish gaston sloper 2/3 of way from crimp 2 to finish edge - may be usable

[Nibile]

Power Club
Mon - PE low 30/15 x6. 1/1 x3. Snatch, high pulls. Easy.
Tue - rest.
Wed - Lattice edge lots of hangs at -4 +4. Overhead squat 5x5. Clean and press 5x5. Bar work 5x5. TBDL static holds 30"/1' x12 110 kg.
Thu - PE low 30/15 x6. 1/1 x3. Forearms very tired from previous session.
Fri - light weights session.
Sat - hours and hours of log splitting. Weights.
Sun - weights, shoulders. Raises, high pulls, one arm snatch, biceps.

[duncan]

M - Shoulder conditioning: overhead press, handstands, side planks. Knee/hip conditioning: squats and single-leg squats. Zoomed in on Graham Hoey’s talk plugging his new and excellent looking peak gritstone guidebook from VP. Part one was black and white gritstone climbing in the 70s/80s (shudder) and part two was colourful long rock routes in France and elsewhere (hurrah).
T - Fairlop concrete boulders. Warmed up thoroughly but my shoulder went ‘scrunch’ on my second (Ft-easy) warm-up problem. Stopped immediately.
W - Squats, step-ups. Walked 10km.
T - Walked to St James’s and back (16km) to see my friend Scoop. Also spotted Chris Whitty getting a coffee; you’ll be happy to hear he was wearing a mask.
F - Recently, I’ve noticed it’s like there is a smudge of grease on my glasses when I look through my left eye. Unfortunately it's still there when I take my glasses off. Visit to the ophthalmologist confirmed l have a defect in the lower half of my visual field. Explains my sketchy footwork. A scan showed an epiretinal membrane (fibrous layer on top of the macula) and macular degeneration. The former can be addressed with an operation (shudder), the latter I have to live with and hope it doesn’t deteriorate (groan). Walked 5km.
S - Squats, step-ups. Walked 8km. Tested shoulder with some 25% bodyweight 'hangs'; not fit to climb on.
S - Squats, step-ups. Walked 11km.

Not the best of weeks.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Realised I've not set any real specific goals recently (apart from ticking all the BMC starred sport routes @ Horseshit - which is really just to keep psyche flowing) so here goes:

STG: F7b and the Horseshit stars
MTG: F7c (this year)
LTG: F8a (next year)

M: Routes @ HH - Branched away from Horseshit for a day - Wasn't worth it! Did a few low 6's and got cold, should have gone to Horseshit.
T: Shoulder and elbow stuff - both feeling pretty okay at the moment but need to keep and eye as can flare up pretty quickly.
W: Routes @ Horseshit - Warmed up on some easy starrred routes (for the ticklist) then slung a toppy down Southern Man (one of the few 7b's there)... Slipped off a sidepull lower down (lack of concentration), took a look at the crux 6m then muddled through first try... Didn't like the sequence so worked it for a bit, found a good one but didn't have time for a RP... Will go next session I reckon... Warmed down on another starred 6.
T: Sheaf bloc - Rinsed circuit crux moves first try. Rinsed final arete (RP crux) first try. Was too tired to link. Next time - maybe.
F: Rest - Shoulder stuff, forgot elbows - doh!
S: Met a mate for a boulder @ Froggatt - Was rammed, windy and generally uninspiring - low psyche for grit! Nipped to Horseshit - was cold, did a starred 5 and fucked it off - not feeling it!
S: Hungover...

Currently doing lots of mileage outside and feel like I'm moving well so although Power and PE may be lacking it feels like I'm hitting the ground running for this season. Good to actually have something to get my teeth into and feel confident on it. If it goes this week or next it'll be the best start to the season I can remember!

[tim palmer]

Here's the notes I took at the crag. I think the whole problem might be rotated a few degrees counterclockwise due to the sloping ground throwing my orientation off, but hopefully not enough to matter. I've had to set the final throw to the finish edge as an individual move lower down as I can't fit it all on!

40 degrees overhanging

Large foothold 30cm down 65cm left from start handhold

Crimp 1: 74cm up from start hold, to the right by 2-3cm, 10mm incut

Crimp 2: 70cm up from crimp 1, 12cm right. Approx 20mm flat edge with thumb catch

Foothold 2: up 80cm from foot 1 and left by 13cm. Approx 5mm

Finishing edge 150cm up from foothold 2 and right by a couple cm

Intermediate good ish gaston sloper 2/3 of way from crimp 2 to finish edge - may be usable

Did you measure the foothold positions and size? 

[yetix]

Measured the dimensions, holds, etc and it's bang on 40 degrees

Care to post these? My "replica" was really more "inspired by".

Here's the notes I took at the crag. I think the whole problem might be rotated a few degrees counterclockwise due to the sloping ground throwing my orientation off, but hopefully not enough to matter. I've had to set the final throw to the finish edge as an individual move lower down as I can't fit it all on!

40 degrees overhanging

Large foothold 30cm down 65cm left from start handhold

Crimp 1: 74cm up from start hold, to the right by 2-3cm, 10mm incut

How Incut is crimp 1 out of curiosity?

[User deactivated.]

Did you measure the foothold positions and size?

The two footholds used in Tom Peckitt's sequence (video on youtube) are in my description. There are other options but I didn't take those. The first foot is massive so I didn't measure its depth but the location is measured relative to the starting handhold.

How Incut is crimp 1 out of curiosity?

It's not a perfectly flat edge and is a bit rounded but generally i'd say it's just positive enough to get your fingers behind and pull on it properly. Incut enough to full crimp on it

[tim palmer]

Ha so you did!  I also used a crescent shaped hold to the right of crimp one whilst I was getting used to the second move,  found it really helpful