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Aims for 2021 (Read 33693 times)

Ged

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#75 Re: Aims for 2021
January 09, 2021, 07:45:32 am
1. Do the steep project at potato head, and the big link from the trench
2.  Christine
3.  A hard boulder problem. Devon sent would be the dream. Or something else 7C upwards.
4.  Onsight e6 for first time in years.
5. If abroad trips happen, then 7c+ onsight somewhere warm and tufa ridden.
heh Ged :wave:  I'm afraid I have to be the barer of bad news.  At some point over the summer (August ish) someone broke the nipple/nubbin off Devon Sent. I think it is crucial to most people"s beta. We don't know who so there can be no lynching or repair jobs.

Hi grant! I went for a look the other day and think it's still possible. I think it's possible to use the higher gaston instead, and you can still rock onto the broken one to get the top. Or I might be kidding myself!

Wood FT

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#76 Re: Aims for 2021
January 09, 2021, 08:02:08 am
1. Do the steep project at potato head, and the big link from the trench
2.  Christine
3.  A hard boulder problem. Devon sent would be the dream. Or something else 7C upwards.
4.  Onsight e6 for first time in years.
5. If abroad trips happen, then 7c+ onsight somewhere warm and tufa ridden.

Where would the big link from the trench go? Up Maris and into.....?

BrutusTheBear

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#77 Re: Aims for 2021
January 09, 2021, 09:41:10 am
1. Do the steep project at potato head, and the big link from the trench
2.  Christine
3.  A hard boulder problem. Devon sent would be the dream. Or something else 7C upwards.
4.  Onsight e6 for first time in years.
5. If abroad trips happen, then 7c+ onsight somewhere warm and tufa ridden.
heh Ged :wave:  I'm afraid I have to be the barer of bad news.  At some point over the summer (August ish) someone broke the nipple/nubbin off Devon Sent. I think it is crucial to most people"s beta. We don't know who so there can be no lynching or repair jobs.

Hi grant! I went for a look the other day and think it's still possible. I think it's possible to use the higher gaston instead, and you can still rock onto the broken one to get the top. Or I might be kidding myself!
. Geddon Ged! Could be 8a now! 

Ged

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#78 Re: Aims for 2021
January 09, 2021, 12:53:09 pm
1. Do the steep project at potato head, and the big link from the trench
2.  Christine
3.  A hard boulder problem. Devon sent would be the dream. Or something else 7C upwards.
4.  Onsight e6 for first time in years.
5. If abroad trips happen, then 7c+ onsight somewhere warm and tufa ridden.

Where would the big link from the trench go? Up Maris and into.....?

Into the blight, then right again to finish up Tom's new one.

Ged

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#79 Re: Aims for 2021
January 09, 2021, 12:54:46 pm
1. Do the steep project at potato head, and the big link from the trench
2.  Christine
3.  A hard boulder problem. Devon sent would be the dream. Or something else 7C upwards.
4.  Onsight e6 for first time in years.
5. If abroad trips happen, then 7c+ onsight somewhere warm and tufa ridden.
heh Ged :wave:  I'm afraid I have to be the barer of bad news.  At some point over the summer (August ish) someone broke the nipple/nubbin off Devon Sent. I think it is crucial to most people"s beta. We don't know who so there can be no lynching or repair jobs.

Hi grant! I went for a look the other day and think it's still possible. I think it's possible to use the higher gaston instead, and you can still rock onto the broken one to get the top. Or I might be kidding myself!
. Geddon Ged! Could be 8a now!

Who knows. It might be pretty similar. Its still OK as a foothold, and I don't know how much I would've used it anyway. But it's a couple of years since my only other go on it, so memory is hazy. It's so good isn't it! Did you do it pre break?

nick63

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#80 Re: Aims for 2021
January 11, 2021, 07:08:32 pm
Not done this before but they say if it's not written down it isn't real! Might be unrealistic for an old (57) busy NHS physio but who knows might surprise myself!

Bouldering;
Got a few ideas/projects
1. The Pinch at sheep pen. Tried this a few times over the summer could get the pinch fairly easily but the throw to the lip very much my anti style
2. Clever Beaver - again tried this a few years ago and got fairly close - well could get the crimp on the lip
3. What would Jerry Do? - tried once over the summer got most of the moves
4. And consistent 6C on the Moonboard

Routes
Something in the 7b range
Get on Axle Attack
Do some trad - Be good to get back to E4 but that would be a big ask

10% body weigh off one arm hang for 7s on the middle slot BM2. Consistent at -10kg left and 12.5kg right at around 77kg.

Build a board in the garage - ordered the wood and fixings today so a start! Have plenty of holds so not that expensive. Just need to clear the garage for years of crap! Should be able to get a 40 degree board about 11 foot in height.

Life;
Support my daughter through her last year in university and her hopes of post grad MPhil at Oxford. I don't think I'll ever be able to retire
Stay fit and healthy - stay injury free (just back from a nasty deep gluteal syndrome 14 months from injury to being back running)
Sort the house out - major project
Re-establish and grow my physio clinic at The Boardroom climbing centre once Covid is under control (not holding breath).

RobK

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#81 Re: Aims for 2021
January 11, 2021, 07:42:39 pm
Good set of goals Nick. Hopefully catch you at BR after all this (although preferably, for me at least, not on the physio table!).

csl

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#82 Re: Aims for 2021
January 15, 2021, 04:23:09 pm
Didn't have any goals for 2020 for some reason, psyche must have been low this time last year.

Main goal is to climb 3 routes or boulders from my lifetime list.
Would be great to do any of the below, I expect which of them will be very Covid dependent.
- Have a good go at onsighting Paradise Lost in one big pitch, anyone keen?
- Flash Empire of the Sun at Anstey's
- Do Jerry's Roof and Paul o Grady SDS, perhaps have a recce on Will on the Mallory Boulder.
- RP Illusions
- RP New Dawn or Dominatrix, haven't climbed at Malham or Kilnsey since 2012.

Number chasing
- 7c sport in a session
- 7B boulder in a session
- 7C boulder

Training
- Get my groin 40cm off the floor in box splits, currently 60cm
- 5 seconds 1 arm hang half crimped on 20mm edge @ 75kg, currently ~71kg for 5 seconds

General
- Climb at 5 new crags
- Climb outside with >= 2 new people

Previous PB was from October and have been training consistently since then, so this was a little conservative. Just did 5 seconds @ 77.3kg after a max hangs session, so probably need to up this a bit. Will aim for 5 seconds @ 80kg

dunnyg

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#83 Re: Aims for 2021
January 15, 2021, 04:33:44 pm
Strong csl, just tried and couldnt hang for a second!

spidermonkey09

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#84 Re: Aims for 2021
January 15, 2021, 08:27:08 pm
Strong csl, just tried and couldnt hang for a second!

Hanging that edge with my puny bodyweight is my aim for the year! 77kg is great numbers.

Bradders

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#85 Re: Aims for 2021
January 15, 2021, 09:33:07 pm
Didn't have any goals for 2020 for some reason, psyche must have been low this time last year.

Main goal is to climb 3 routes or boulders from my lifetime list.
Would be great to do any of the below, I expect which of them will be very Covid dependent.
- Have a good go at onsighting Paradise Lost in one big pitch, anyone keen?
- Flash Empire of the Sun at Anstey's
- Do Jerry's Roof and Paul o Grady SDS, perhaps have a recce on Will on the Mallory Boulder.
- RP Illusions
- RP New Dawn or Dominatrix, haven't climbed at Malham or Kilnsey since 2012.

Number chasing
- 7c sport in a session
- 7B boulder in a session
- 7C boulder

Training
- Get my groin 40cm off the floor in box splits, currently 60cm
- 5 seconds 1 arm hang half crimped on 20mm edge @ 75kg, currently ~71kg for 5 seconds

General
- Climb at 5 new crags
- Climb outside with >= 2 new people

Previous PB was from October and have been training consistently since then, so this was a little conservative. Just did 5 seconds @ 77.3kg after a max hangs session, so probably need to up this a bit. Will aim for 5 seconds @ 80kg

Hang on, you can half crimp one arm hang a 20mm edge with nearly 80kg load (weight added?), and you haven't done a 7C boulder yet?

Footwork

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#86 Re: Aims for 2021
January 15, 2021, 11:01:00 pm
Didn't have any goals for 2020 for some reason, psyche must have been low this time last year.

Main goal is to climb 3 routes or boulders from my lifetime list.
Would be great to do any of the below, I expect which of them will be very Covid dependent.
- Have a good go at onsighting Paradise Lost in one big pitch, anyone keen?
- Flash Empire of the Sun at Anstey's
- Do Jerry's Roof and Paul o Grady SDS, perhaps have a recce on Will on the Mallory Boulder.
- RP Illusions
- RP New Dawn or Dominatrix, haven't climbed at Malham or Kilnsey since 2012.

Number chasing
- 7c sport in a session
- 7B boulder in a session
- 7C boulder

Training
- Get my groin 40cm off the floor in box splits, currently 60cm
- 5 seconds 1 arm hang half crimped on 20mm edge @ 75kg, currently ~71kg for 5 seconds

General
- Climb at 5 new crags
- Climb outside with >= 2 new people

Previous PB was from October and have been training consistently since then, so this was a little conservative. Just did 5 seconds @ 77.3kg after a max hangs session, so probably need to up this a bit. Will aim for 5 seconds @ 80kg

Hang on, you can half crimp one arm hang a 20mm edge with nearly 80kg load (weight added?), and you haven't done a 7C boulder yet?

He would have if he lived anywhere near rock and spent more than 20 minutes trying one.

csl

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#87 Re: Aims for 2021
January 15, 2021, 11:03:33 pm
Yep, though I only had my first session on a 7C last year. I've not really got into the whole projecting thing with boulder problems tbh.

Bradders

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#88 Re: Aims for 2021
January 16, 2021, 09:30:31 am
Should be flashing them with that level of strength!

csl

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#89 Re: Aims for 2021
January 16, 2021, 10:13:55 am
Should be flashing them with that level of strength!

Not when combined with my level of technique, sadly.

Bradders

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#90 Re: Aims for 2021
January 16, 2021, 11:06:27 am
Ha well maybe. I suppose my point is that if there's one thing you definitely don't need to work on, that's it.

csl

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#91 Re: Aims for 2021
January 16, 2021, 11:46:20 am
Don't worry, I totally agree with you. Going rock climbing is what I need to do more of, but that's a little tricky at the moment.

dunnyg

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#92 Re: Aims for 2021
January 16, 2021, 01:54:45 pm
The pursuit of finger strength is a noble one on its own.

csl

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#93 Re: Aims for 2021
January 17, 2021, 05:20:39 pm
The pursuit of finger strength is a noble one on its own.

I find it quite a zen experience, I usually pick whichever meeting I think will be the most boring and do a session while someone drones on in the background. Just need to hope that no-one asks me a question while I'm mid hang

James Malloch

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#94 Re: Aims for 2021
June 27, 2021, 08:23:15 am
Adding mine from 2020 into here (because I did one!)….

Some hopefully achievable ones for me, mainly good climbs at reasonable grades to try and make me get to some of the crags I wish I went to more.

Tremolo 7c @ Malham. Hopefully in 2-3 sessions.

Onsight Yosemite Wall 7a+ @ Malham. I’ve been saving that for too long - time to give it a go.

Night Glue 7a+ @ LPT. A good reason to go there - preferably onsight.

Grand Canyon 7b+ @ Devil’s Gorge. Been wanting to give it a go for ages

Electric Warrior or Wargames or Super DuPont @ Chapel Head Scar. One of these ticked off would be great and get me back to the crag.

Smooth Torquer 7a+ @ Kilnsey. An old nemesis...

Powerband 7C @ the tor. The least likely one to go…

Try to stay injury free.

James Malloch

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#95 Re: Aims for 2021
June 27, 2021, 10:07:33 am
Adding mine from 2020 into here (because I did one!)….

Some hopefully achievable ones for me, mainly good climbs at reasonable grades to try and make me get to some of the crags I wish I went to more.

Tremolo 7c @ Malham. Hopefully in 2-3 sessions.

Onsight Yosemite Wall 7a+ @ Malham. I’ve been saving that for too long - time to give it a go.

Night Glue 7a+ @ LPT. A good reason to go there - preferably onsight.

Grand Canyon 7b+ @ Devil’s Gorge. Been wanting to give it a go for ages

Electric Warrior or Wargames or Super DuPont @ Chapel Head Scar. One of these ticked off would be great and get me back to the crag.

Smooth Torquer 7a+ @ Kilnsey. An old nemesis...

Powerband 7C @ the tor. The least likely one to go…

Try to stay injury free.

Going to add Mandala Training Traverse 7C @ Kilnsey too after a play on it yesterday. Only 20 mins from home so no excuses not to put some effort in!

jwi

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#96 Re: Aims for 2021
June 28, 2021, 09:55:10 pm
I have not yet achieved any of the goals of 2021, but today I achieved one of the goals of 2020! Always something, eh?

Quote from: jwi

2b. A basic 3-4-5-...-15 ladder up the thinnest rungs on the campusboard at the gym.


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#97 Re: Aims for 2021
June 28, 2021, 10:11:51 pm
I have not yet achieved any of the goals of 2021, but today I achieved one of the goals of 2020! Always something, eh?

I’m routinely at least a year behind in my goals.  :lol:

SA Chris

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#98 Re: Aims for 2021
June 29, 2021, 08:40:35 am
Include 1) not having to worry about producing a list next year as I already have 1.

Wellsy

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#99 Re: Aims for 2021
June 29, 2021, 08:53:07 am
My aim for 2021 was to do a 7A, and I've done a couple, so that's cool. I'd like to do another 7A on lime, that's the next project.

I'd like to start doing some roped stuff outdoors. Indoor roped stuff doesn't appeal at all but a bit of trad and sport. That's basically just a case of actually getting on and doing it.

I'd also like to get closer to my 100kgs bench. I'm currently at 85kgs so not that far and maybe doable in 2021!

 

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