Quote from: Ged on January 08, 2021, 10:36:46 am1. Do the steep project at potato head, and the big link from the trench2. Christine 3. A hard boulder problem. Devon sent would be the dream. Or something else 7C upwards. 4. Onsight e6 for first time in years. 5. If abroad trips happen, then 7c+ onsight somewhere warm and tufa ridden. heh Ged I'm afraid I have to be the barer of bad news. At some point over the summer (August ish) someone broke the nipple/nubbin off Devon Sent. I think it is crucial to most people"s beta. We don't know who so there can be no lynching or repair jobs.
1. Do the steep project at potato head, and the big link from the trench2. Christine 3. A hard boulder problem. Devon sent would be the dream. Or something else 7C upwards. 4. Onsight e6 for first time in years. 5. If abroad trips happen, then 7c+ onsight somewhere warm and tufa ridden.
Quote from: BrutusTheBear on January 08, 2021, 11:30:44 amQuote from: Ged on January 08, 2021, 10:36:46 am1. Do the steep project at potato head, and the big link from the trench2. Christine 3. A hard boulder problem. Devon sent would be the dream. Or something else 7C upwards. 4. Onsight e6 for first time in years. 5. If abroad trips happen, then 7c+ onsight somewhere warm and tufa ridden. heh Ged I'm afraid I have to be the barer of bad news. At some point over the summer (August ish) someone broke the nipple/nubbin off Devon Sent. I think it is crucial to most people"s beta. We don't know who so there can be no lynching or repair jobs. Hi grant! I went for a look the other day and think it's still possible. I think it's possible to use the higher gaston instead, and you can still rock onto the broken one to get the top. Or I might be kidding myself!
Quote from: Ged on January 08, 2021, 10:36:46 am1. Do the steep project at potato head, and the big link from the trench2. Christine 3. A hard boulder problem. Devon sent would be the dream. Or something else 7C upwards. 4. Onsight e6 for first time in years. 5. If abroad trips happen, then 7c+ onsight somewhere warm and tufa ridden.Where would the big link from the trench go? Up Maris and into.....?
Quote from: Ged on January 09, 2021, 07:45:32 amQuote from: BrutusTheBear on January 08, 2021, 11:30:44 amQuote from: Ged on January 08, 2021, 10:36:46 am1. Do the steep project at potato head, and the big link from the trench2. Christine 3. A hard boulder problem. Devon sent would be the dream. Or something else 7C upwards. 4. Onsight e6 for first time in years. 5. If abroad trips happen, then 7c+ onsight somewhere warm and tufa ridden. heh Ged I'm afraid I have to be the barer of bad news. At some point over the summer (August ish) someone broke the nipple/nubbin off Devon Sent. I think it is crucial to most people"s beta. We don't know who so there can be no lynching or repair jobs. Hi grant! I went for a look the other day and think it's still possible. I think it's possible to use the higher gaston instead, and you can still rock onto the broken one to get the top. Or I might be kidding myself!. Geddon Ged! Could be 8a now!
Didn't have any goals for 2020 for some reason, psyche must have been low this time last year.Main goal is to climb 3 routes or boulders from my lifetime list.Would be great to do any of the below, I expect which of them will be very Covid dependent.- Have a good go at onsighting Paradise Lost in one big pitch, anyone keen?- Flash Empire of the Sun at Anstey's- Do Jerry's Roof and Paul o Grady SDS, perhaps have a recce on Will on the Mallory Boulder.- RP Illusions- RP New Dawn or Dominatrix, haven't climbed at Malham or Kilnsey since 2012.Number chasing- 7c sport in a session- 7B boulder in a session- 7C boulderTraining- Get my groin 40cm off the floor in box splits, currently 60cm- 5 seconds 1 arm hang half crimped on 20mm edge @ 75kg, currently ~71kg for 5 secondsGeneral- Climb at 5 new crags- Climb outside with >= 2 new people
Strong csl, just tried and couldnt hang for a second!
Quote from: csl on January 01, 2021, 08:32:32 pmDidn't have any goals for 2020 for some reason, psyche must have been low this time last year.Main goal is to climb 3 routes or boulders from my lifetime list.Would be great to do any of the below, I expect which of them will be very Covid dependent.- Have a good go at onsighting Paradise Lost in one big pitch, anyone keen?- Flash Empire of the Sun at Anstey's- Do Jerry's Roof and Paul o Grady SDS, perhaps have a recce on Will on the Mallory Boulder.- RP Illusions- RP New Dawn or Dominatrix, haven't climbed at Malham or Kilnsey since 2012.Number chasing- 7c sport in a session- 7B boulder in a session- 7C boulderTraining- Get my groin 40cm off the floor in box splits, currently 60cm- 5 seconds 1 arm hang half crimped on 20mm edge @ 75kg, currently ~71kg for 5 secondsGeneral- Climb at 5 new crags- Climb outside with >= 2 new peoplePrevious PB was from October and have been training consistently since then, so this was a little conservative. Just did 5 seconds @ 77.3kg after a max hangs session, so probably need to up this a bit. Will aim for 5 seconds @ 80kg
Quote from: csl on January 15, 2021, 04:23:09 pmQuote from: csl on January 01, 2021, 08:32:32 pmDidn't have any goals for 2020 for some reason, psyche must have been low this time last year.Main goal is to climb 3 routes or boulders from my lifetime list.Would be great to do any of the below, I expect which of them will be very Covid dependent.- Have a good go at onsighting Paradise Lost in one big pitch, anyone keen?- Flash Empire of the Sun at Anstey's- Do Jerry's Roof and Paul o Grady SDS, perhaps have a recce on Will on the Mallory Boulder.- RP Illusions- RP New Dawn or Dominatrix, haven't climbed at Malham or Kilnsey since 2012.Number chasing- 7c sport in a session- 7B boulder in a session- 7C boulderTraining- Get my groin 40cm off the floor in box splits, currently 60cm- 5 seconds 1 arm hang half crimped on 20mm edge @ 75kg, currently ~71kg for 5 secondsGeneral- Climb at 5 new crags- Climb outside with >= 2 new peoplePrevious PB was from October and have been training consistently since then, so this was a little conservative. Just did 5 seconds @ 77.3kg after a max hangs session, so probably need to up this a bit. Will aim for 5 seconds @ 80kgHang on, you can half crimp one arm hang a 20mm edge with nearly 80kg load (weight added?), and you haven't done a 7C boulder yet?
Should be flashing them with that level of strength!
The pursuit of finger strength is a noble one on its own.
Adding mine from 2020 into here (because I did one!)….Some hopefully achievable ones for me, mainly good climbs at reasonable grades to try and make me get to some of the crags I wish I went to more.Tremolo 7c @ Malham. Hopefully in 2-3 sessions.Onsight Yosemite Wall 7a+ @ Malham. I’ve been saving that for too long - time to give it a go.Night Glue 7a+ @ LPT. A good reason to go there - preferably onsight.Grand Canyon 7b+ @ Devil’s Gorge. Been wanting to give it a go for agesElectric Warrior or Wargames or Super DuPont @ Chapel Head Scar. One of these ticked off would be great and get me back to the crag. Smooth Torquer 7a+ @ Kilnsey. An old nemesis...Powerband 7C @ the tor. The least likely one to go…Try to stay injury free.
2b. A basic 3-4-5-...-15 ladder up the thinnest rungs on the campusboard at the gym.
I have not yet achieved any of the goals of 2021, but today I achieved one of the goals of 2020! Always something, eh?