[Avoiding the Traitor]

Which shoes is best for bouldering / smearing?

Getting rid of my Boreal Zen (it is shite) Thinking of going back to 5.10 Velcro.

What u think of Red Chili X-cube or La Sportiva Katana?

[the_dom]

Thinking of going back to 5.10 Velcro.

I hate the 5.10 Velcro - found they fit completely different to the lace-ups, which are some of the best shoes I've ever owned..

[Stubbs]

i've had zen, katana, x-cube and 5 10 velcro, which i'm using at the mo. i really liked both the katana and the x-cube, the x-cubes fit me better and i thought they were better for smearing than the katanas, which i found more edgy. i got my 5 10's a bit too small, and as a result they rule for edging, but i don't think i can bend my toes enough in them for low angle slabs!

So, i recommend trying some x-cubes if they fit you.

[dave]

i've had some Kiri Ti Kanawas. bouth them not mega small (intended for routes, HA HA). they never felt like magic to me, but that was probaby cos they were't that tight. broke them in as a warmup shoe, did loads of stuff in them. worked well on the granite in sardina and austria, passed the smearing test on deliverance, and comfy for those with a wider foot. not convinced about the opposing velcro ting though, and the heel sole strip tended to flake away at the edge, but still a good shoe. not that stiff when worn in, same fit as the cobra.

5-10 velcros are good providing A they fit (narrow) B they don't fall appart, and C you don't mind the inevitalbe wearing through the uppers the first time you do a heel-toe bar. there wuality control is wack, so if buying try on several pairs of the same size in the shop cos some ones will fet ou better than others, even though supposedly the same size.

[the_dom]

5-10 velcros are good providing A they fit (narrow) B they don't fall appart, and C you don't mind the inevitalbe wearing through the uppers the first time you do a heel-toe bar. there wuality control is wack, so if buying try on several pairs of the same size in the shop cos some ones will fet ou better than others, even though supposedly the same size.

Word. They were the worst shoes, build quality-wise, that I've ever owned. They fell apart indecently quickly.

My anasazi lace-ups, on the other hand, have lasted for ages.

[cofe]

i've never had a problem with velcros, even now i've started using my feet. i've had shitloads as well. the lace-up/velcro divide is basically a foot-width issue. lace-ups are narrower. they aren't the same shoe with different fastenings. the heels are good - its about knowing how to use them. i've never had rubber peel. they soften during their lifespan hence you use them for different things.

defo try on multiple pairs in shop (i taught dave everything he knows)

lets not forget they are 5.15ies as well...

katanas are wider still. i can't contemplate them.

[Avoiding the Traitor]

Tried Katana and it seem to be too wide for my feet. Got ridculous narrow feet.

Looked at Madrock's it look shite quality (thin soles)

[cofe]

i wouldn't bother with mad rocks unless you only climb with your heels (admirable)

my feet are weel narrow hence a love affair with the now defunct zlipper. amazing. still wear anasazis for all round stuff.

[SA Chris]

I have a pair of Mad Rock Velcros that i bought in the US last year. They are the velcros WITHOUT the dual density rubber (which seems like a bad idea) so either the Mugen or the Flash and I have had no worries with them; still holding up well after 18 month of fairly heavy use; weekends and usually once a week, plus a 4 week bouldering trip to US. I really like the heel, compared to the 5.10 lace up, which always feels baggy and/or spilts down the sides.

[Avoiding the Traitor]

Have you tried or heard anything about UKRocks' shoes?

[cofe]

I have a pair of Mad Rock Velcros that i bought in the US last year. They are the velcros WITHOUT the dual density rubber (which seems like a bad idea) so either the Mugen or the Flash

flash i believe. supposedly better than the mugen cos of sole- which is 'spooky' to say the least when soloing a smeary slab. on the plus side the mugen does LOOK badass but this is no reason to buy a shoe :wink:

buy on fit, nothing else.

[dave]

Have you tried or heard anything about UKRocks' shoes?

the evolve things? I've never had them but seems to get good reviews in the USA.

[Avoiding the Traitor]

Yeah it certainly do get good review !!.

[Bubba]

I'm currently reviewing two pairs of Evolvs and they're pretty damn good.

The Kaos (yellow shoe one) is really nice - good heel control and very soft. Non leather uppers are super comfy two.

Just wearing in another pair - the white boots, can't remember the name.

[Avoiding the Traitor]

Hmm sound good .. I might go for it - it seem UKrocks is the only place to buy it?

[account_inactive]

They are amusingly known as 'Bandits'  

Soon to be your favorite shoe Bubba?

Evolv Rock :

[Big Frank]

I'm currently reviewing two pairs of Evolvs and they're pretty damn good.

The Kaos (yellow shoe one) is really nice - good heel control and very soft. Non leather uppers are super comfy two.

Just wearing in another pair - the white boots, can't remember the name.

Do you actualy climb Bubba, I thought you were some sort of closet caver?

[the_dom]

I have a pair of Mad Rock Velcros that i bought in the US last year. They are the velcros WITHOUT the dual density rubber (which seems like a bad idea) so either the Mugen or the Flash and I have had no worries with them;

Had a pair of those too - they didn't fit me great once they were worn in..

[Bubba]

Do you actualy climb Bubba, I thought you were some sort of closet caver?

I'm at the wall right now, punk!

Yes, this wall has internet access - posh or what?

[LJ]

Such negativity for the mad rock flava! Ive had a pair of the mugens for the last year and find them superb, will be buying again. Can feel very strange at first and quite stiff, but i found mine broke in quite quickly with a couple os sessions at the wall. After a couple of months of use they smear better than any other shoe ive owned, great on pebbles, and the heal rocks! They are also the only shoe that has lasted me longer than 6 months without trashing! only just got a small hole in the toe!

My other shoes at the min are the 5.10 slippers, which are fuckin ace too, superb on really precise stuff and a great smearing boot, the heal really doesnt fit me well tho! :roll:

[Big Frank]

Do you actualy climb Bubba, I thought you were some sort of closet caver?

I'm at the wall right now, punk!

Yes, this wall has internet access - posh or what?

You mean you've got a phone plug in your cellar.

[Bubba]

Tsk - phone plug, so last century - the woody in the garage has wireless access to the rest of the house, but this is down at the gym where they have about 20 internet terminals.

Wall's a bit shite like, but it's good for getting a pump on.

Anyway, shoes again - I've got narrow heels and find it very hard to find anything that cups my heel properly. Apart from my Red Chilli red and grey thingys, the evolvs are the first thing that's given me a good heel fit for years.

[squeek]

I really rate the X-cubes, and I reckon it'll be the first shoe I've owned that I'll buy another pair of.  Only problem I've got is that they've stretched so now they're a bit bigger than I would have liked, 1/2 a size down next time I think.

[Avoiding the Traitor]

Anyway, shoes again - I've got narrow heels and find it very hard to find anything that cups my heel properly. Apart from my Red Chilli red and grey thingys, the evolvs are the first thing that's given me a good heel fit for years.

Got the same problem - 5.10 seem to give baggy heel whilst the rest fit fine.

[cofe]

5.10 seem to give baggy heel whilst the rest fit fine.

it's all in the mind.

i've got heels/ankles like butter knives and still hook with the best of them. its all about how you emply your heels. c'mon guys the boots can't do everything for you.