I had just started to fire properly and was in my attempt, ten min rest, attempt etc.. redpoint cycle..
Quote from: tomtom on February 23, 2020, 08:04:39 pmI had just started to fire properly and was in my attempt, ten min rest, attempt etc.. redpoint cycle.. Just a thought, as this is a trap I feel I've often fallen into myself; ten minutes between attempts on a single move is probably too long in my experience. Often I'll have my best goes having two in quick (1-2 mins between max) succession. Ten mins is more like the sort of rest you might have if, for example, you fell off the top of Pit Problem having done 4/5 powerful moves.
Crusher’s Desert Spires as the best climbing coffee table books of recent years.
Quote from: duncan on February 23, 2020, 09:14:58 pm Crusher’s Desert Spires as the best climbing coffee table books of recent years.Is that related to this https://issuu.com/johnharlin/docs/gallwas_deserttowerscollection?
I’m in serious need of some future inspiration - training / climbing has taken a complete nosedive since I started commuting...
Thinking of mixing up the max hangs with one 2 arm and one arm session per week. Something that occurred to me when looking at the documentation that came with the pulley; how effective actually are they ; eg. if I attach 20kg to it does it actually take 20kg off? I tried reading the science but got confused.
what a strange problem. Play on Kidneystone was enjoyable. Did the stand start from the flake which is a good little 6b+ ish. Almost sorted the sequence from the low jug but it involves a bit of trickery and avoiding dabbing seems to be the crux.
I’d recommend picking one to do for a couple of sessions a week for a block at a time, and then changing it up, so you get a decent volume of each max hang type in at once. Can also vary hold size for 2 arm (e.g using Micros rather than adding weight, or just a smaller hold with less weight). I don’t think the frictional effects of the pulley are worth worrying about, as long as you are always using the same set up you can measure your own personal progress. FWIW the small petzl one I use at home seems to produce a negligible amount of friction.
Something that occurred to me when looking at the documentation that came with the pulley; how effective actually are they ; eg. if I attach 20kg to it does it actually take 20kg off? I tried reading the science but got confused.
I found SOTG pretty underwhelmingBe interested to know your trickery on Kidneystone, generally end up stumped
This has probably been covered elsewhere on the forum but whats your view re one armed hangs front on or side on, with the shoulder either fully open or not?
Quote from: nai on February 24, 2020, 10:54:20 amI found SOTG pretty underwhelmingBe interested to know your trickery on Kidneystone, generally end up stumpedYeah, not a classic but as one move wonders go its quite a good one because the holds aren't grim and it doesn't trash your skin. Not 7B though!Re Kidneystone, I think if one is tall enough to get left hand on the crimp before pulling on its way easier as this takes about 4 moves out of the sequence. I had right heel on the good edge, LF on shit edge in middle of roof, RH in jug, LH on obvious sloper. The foot becomes a heel toe once I pull on, then match sloper and do a few bumps of the LH across to crimp rail. Next bit is a work in progres but essentially: LF toe hook next to RF, and then a very tenuous RF heel in the starting jug hollow. Once this is on (only got it to stick once) I was planning on bouncing hands up to the jug flake maybe via a sloper. Its a weird sequence and definitely easier if taller...