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Sea of Tranquility (Read 10089 times)

Kingy

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Sea of Tranquility
August 20, 2019, 06:12:31 pm
Anybody know why this route got upgraded from Moon's original 8c grade?

I'm interested as Pete who repeated this the other day said he found it easier than All Out at Kilnsey, it certainly took less time to do. I know the routes are different styles but still, if its harder, surely either All Out should be upgraded to 8c+ or Sea downgraded back to 8c?

gme

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#1 Re: Sea of Tranquility
August 20, 2019, 07:13:46 pm
I was going to ask the same question but didnt want to get shot down as a grumpy old timer. This and Liquid seem to have got upgraded despite no one doing them, changing history in the case of the later.

It would be great to here Petes opinion on this, evo, hubble, rainshadow  etc. now hes done them all in a short time frame. Bens the only other to have done so but with a 30 year gap so hard to reference.

Once Brexit is sorted i am hoping that these things all get put back to there proper grades. Other than being able to buy potatoes in lbs rather than kgs Its the only reason people voted for it.

Doylo

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#2 Re: Sea of Tranquility
August 20, 2019, 07:43:51 pm
I have the info.  Pete did it with the alternative left hand crimp sequence (first person to do it this way). I belayed Mcclure on it once and he discovered these crimps a metre or so left of the original Moony slopers. Caff tried like this but never managed. Pete Robins repeated it with Moons original sloper sequence and gets quite irate about the other method which is a very different thing to the left (he says it should be called Cop Out of Tranqulity   ;D. The left line is fair game but maybe it’s back to 8c. As for Liquid that’s obscene however you do it and definitely not two grades easier than Big Bang.

Kingy

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#3 Re: Sea of Tranquility
August 20, 2019, 07:57:11 pm
Interesting, good to hear the backstory. Routes change and new sequences are found, all part of the game

Duncan campbell

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#4 Re: Sea of Tranquility
August 20, 2019, 08:13:07 pm
Which way did Dawson the Stronger do it??

Amazing form Pete is on at the mo. His bro Luke is a mutant and always says Pete is way stronger than him so I can’t even imagine how strong that actually is!

Looking forward to seeing what’s next for him!

Doylo

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#5 Re: Sea of Tranquility
August 20, 2019, 08:25:28 pm
Interesting, good to hear the backstory. Routes change and new sequences are found, all part of the game

Ye nought wrong with the crimp way really, just easier.

gme

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#6 Re: Sea of Tranquility
August 20, 2019, 08:26:45 pm
As for Liquid that’s obscene however you do it and definitely not two grades easier than Big Bang.

Are you suggesting it gets down graded!!!!

Kingy

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#7 Re: Sea of Tranquility
August 20, 2019, 08:29:21 pm
Which way did Dawson the Stronger do it??

The crimp way

Doylo

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#8 Re: Sea of Tranquility
August 20, 2019, 09:15:33 pm
As for Liquid that’s obscene however you do it and definitely not two grades easier than Big Bang.

Are you suggesting it gets down graded!!!!

Downgrade Big Bang ye why not . Caff did It twice  :lol: If Liquid is 8c there’s a fair few 8cs in the country that need to go to 8b+.

Doylo

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#9 Re: Sea of Tranquility
August 20, 2019, 09:16:37 pm
Be interesting to see what’s Pete D makes of LA when he tries it . Jordan’s been trying it on and off this summer .

moose

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#10 Re: Sea of Tranquility
August 20, 2019, 09:35:37 pm
Amazing form Pete is on at the mo. His bro Luke is a mutant and always says Pete is way stronger than him so I can’t even imagine how strong that actually is!

What's impressed me whenever I've seen Pete D (aside from obvious mutant strength), is how well he can climb in absolutely terrible conditions.  Air like warm soup? No problem!  If anything, it just seems to make him angry and he refuses to let it affect him - hot fury burning off the gop.

Duncan campbell

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#11 Re: Sea of Tranquility
August 20, 2019, 09:49:55 pm
Dismaying

shark

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#12 Re: Sea of Tranquility
August 21, 2019, 02:47:37 pm
As for Liquid that’s obscene however you do it and definitely not two grades easier than Big Bang.

Are you suggesting it gets down graded!!!!

Downgrade Big Bang ye why not . Caff did It twice  :lol:

There was a rumour that Caff said with the new sequence (whatever it is) on Big Bang that it might be 8c+ now

What do you know?

spidermonkey09

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#13 Re: Sea of Tranquility
August 21, 2019, 04:42:44 pm
I have the info.  Pete did it with the alternative left hand crimp sequence (first person to do it this way). I belayed Mcclure on it once and he discovered these crimps a metre or so left of the original Moony slopers. Caff tried like this but never managed. Pete Robins repeated it with Moons original sloper sequence and gets quite irate about the other method which is a very different thing to the left (he says it should be called Cop Out of Tranqulity   ;D. The left line is fair game but maybe it’s back to 8c. As for Liquid that’s obscene however you do it and definitely not two grades easier than Big Bang.

I always think its interesting when this happens; did Moon have the blinkers on to such an extent that he couldn't see these crimps or did he actively decide not to use them? UKC have not got the knowledge here as their report is banging on about this dreadful slopers which it seems Pete didn't use!

spidermonkey09

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#14 Re: Sea of Tranquility
August 21, 2019, 04:43:59 pm

There was a rumour that Caff said with the new sequence (whatever it is) on Big Bang that it might be 8c+ now


Surely we can't be downgrading that as well with Twyford so close, it was harsh enough when it happened with Unjustified after she did it...

Kingy

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#15 Re: Sea of Tranquility
August 21, 2019, 04:56:49 pm
did Moon have the blinkers on to such an extent that he couldn't see these crimps or did he actively decide not to use them?

The former I suspect

andy_e

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#16 Re: Sea of Tranquility
August 21, 2019, 05:00:22 pm
All these downgradings are going to have knock-on effects on everything else. Bat Route is now 8b+ and the Oak is hard 7c+.

tomtom

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#17 Re: Sea of Tranquility
August 21, 2019, 06:02:26 pm
Since when has the oak been anything higher than 7c+?

😃

Doylo

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#18 Re: Sea of Tranquility
August 22, 2019, 08:16:44 am
As for Liquid that’s obscene however you do it and definitely not two grades easier than Big Bang.

Are you suggesting it gets down graded!!!!

Downgrade Big Bang ye why not . Caff did It twice  :lol:

There was a rumour that Caff said with the new sequence (whatever it is) on Big Bang that it might be 8c+ now

What do you know?

It’s not a new sequence, it’s how Carson did it. Caff says he did something magic with his thumbs though.  Just those pics of Moony on it from years ago (when he said the crux was 7C+) were with a duff sequence . Pete D has tried Big Bang, think he said it felt tricky. Very specific style. For Caff (and definitely Emma) it’s gonna be easier than Liquid as it’s all fingers and the crux is less steep (more their bag). You have to be light for it as it’s so sharp. Doubt a fat cunt will ever get up it (hence why Robins hasn’t done  :lol:).

Doylo

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#19 Re: Sea of Tranquility
August 22, 2019, 08:23:13 am
did Moon have the blinkers on to such an extent that he couldn't see these crimps or did he actively decide not to use them?

The former I suspect

Climbs completely differently, almost two different lines but they’re so close it’s the same route. Think the last few tricky moves are common to both. Sea Of into Megalopa headwall anyone ? Might even be a direct finish to do to it rather than finishing in the crack on the right, budge it back to 8c+.

Paul B

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#20 Re: Sea of Tranquility
August 22, 2019, 12:44:26 pm
I'm interested as Pete who repeated this the other day said he found it easier than All Out at Kilnsey

...because the grade is clearly wrong. I'm all for putting a stop to runaway grades but basing it upon a benchmark of All Out  :???:

Will Hunt

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#21 Re: Sea of Tranquility
August 22, 2019, 12:51:17 pm
I'm interested as Pete who repeated this the other day said he found it easier than All Out at Kilnsey

...because the grade is clearly wrong. I'm all for putting a stop to runaway grades but basing it upon a benchmark of All Out  :???:

I've not got round to editing Kilnsey yet and I'm struggling to think off the top of my head whether it was indeed All Out which people had been petitioning about, but I'm sure that it's going up to 8c.

Kingy

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#22 Re: Sea of Tranquility
August 22, 2019, 01:29:29 pm
All out has been 8c since the late 90s when a large undercut came off the crux

Will Hunt

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#23 Re: Sea of Tranquility
August 22, 2019, 08:17:15 pm
All out has been 8c since the late 90s when a large undercut came off the crux

But not according to the YMC (2005) or Rockfax (2015).

tim palmer

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#24 Re: Sea of Tranquility
August 22, 2019, 09:40:01 pm
All out has been 8c since the late 90s when a large undercut came off the crux

But not according to the YMC (2005) or Rockfax (2015).
They are wrong

 

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