Interesting, good to hear the backstory. Routes change and new sequences are found, all part of the game
As for Liquid that’s obscene however you do it and definitely not two grades easier than Big Bang.
Which way did Dawson the Stronger do it??
Quote from: Doylo on August 20, 2019, 07:43:51 pm As for Liquid that’s obscene however you do it and definitely not two grades easier than Big Bang.Are you suggesting it gets down graded!!!!
Amazing form Pete is on at the mo. His bro Luke is a mutant and always says Pete is way stronger than him so I can’t even imagine how strong that actually is!
Quote from: gme on August 20, 2019, 08:26:45 pmQuote from: Doylo on August 20, 2019, 07:43:51 pm As for Liquid that’s obscene however you do it and definitely not two grades easier than Big Bang.Are you suggesting it gets down graded!!!! Downgrade Big Bang ye why not . Caff did It twice
I have the info. Pete did it with the alternative left hand crimp sequence (first person to do it this way). I belayed Mcclure on it once and he discovered these crimps a metre or so left of the original Moony slopers. Caff tried like this but never managed. Pete Robins repeated it with Moons original sloper sequence and gets quite irate about the other method which is a very different thing to the left (he says it should be called Cop Out of Tranqulity . The left line is fair game but maybe it’s back to 8c. As for Liquid that’s obscene however you do it and definitely not two grades easier than Big Bang.
There was a rumour that Caff said with the new sequence (whatever it is) on Big Bang that it might be 8c+ now
did Moon have the blinkers on to such an extent that he couldn't see these crimps or did he actively decide not to use them?
Quote from: Doylo on August 20, 2019, 09:15:33 pmQuote from: gme on August 20, 2019, 08:26:45 pmQuote from: Doylo on August 20, 2019, 07:43:51 pm As for Liquid that’s obscene however you do it and definitely not two grades easier than Big Bang.Are you suggesting it gets down graded!!!! Downgrade Big Bang ye why not . Caff did It twice There was a rumour that Caff said with the new sequence (whatever it is) on Big Bang that it might be 8c+ nowWhat do you know?
Quote from: spidermonkey09 on August 21, 2019, 04:42:44 pmdid Moon have the blinkers on to such an extent that he couldn't see these crimps or did he actively decide not to use them?The former I suspect
I'm interested as Pete who repeated this the other day said he found it easier than All Out at Kilnsey
Quote from: Kingy on August 20, 2019, 06:12:31 pmI'm interested as Pete who repeated this the other day said he found it easier than All Out at Kilnsey...because the grade is clearly wrong. I'm all for putting a stop to runaway grades but basing it upon a benchmark of All Out
All out has been 8c since the late 90s when a large undercut came off the crux
Quote from: Kingy on August 22, 2019, 01:29:29 pmAll out has been 8c since the late 90s when a large undercut came off the cruxBut not according to the YMC (2005) or Rockfax (2015).