[nai]

M - max hangs.

T -  Depot.
W - rest.

T - Kilnsey

F - impromptu max hangs

S - afternoon at Staden in the Peak.

S - Malham.

I know it's unfashionable and probably worthy a stoning but might a bit of a taper and trying to engineer a peak in form be an idea if you'e closong in on success, rather than keep thrashing yourself?

[Goat]

Mon- Tried opening a jam jar with my left hand and badly sprained the left side of my neck and shoulder. I went out sport climbing. When I was climbing the pain and stiffness in my neck more or less went away, but it returned after I finished. Middle right finger felt a bit iffy.
Tues- Rest- I wake up, and my shoulder and neck are still quite badly sprained. After a couple of hours of yoga and exercise the pain seems to lessen in the later stages of the day. Middle right finger felt a bit iffy.

Wed- (Basically a rest)- Although my neck and shoulder are stiff in the morning, throughout the day this lessens dramatically, and towards the end of the day things only ache at the extremum of movement. I also do tiny hangboard session to test how my right finger feels. It seems to be fine on drags and even okish on half crimps. Tomorrow I will focus on only dragging with my right hand. If I find a jug I will force myself to use only my first two pads. Hopefully this will avoid further damage to the pulley area.

Thurs- Went sport climbing. It was nice as the crag is in a good location. However, I have no endurance (I typically have been training on 3-move board problems for the last month). Hence it just ended up feeling like a shitty bouldering session, as in I would wait for a long time and then climb a highball and fall off due to pump. I’ll work on my endurance a bit next year, and hopefully it will make sport climbing more enjoyable. But it was still a nice day, and it was good to get outside.

Fri-  40 min finger board session. Psyched to train my 2-finger hangs.
Sat- Rest
Sun- Went bouldering at Medonnet. Beautiful place with some great boulders. Felt pretty strong and did a decent number of problems, but I kinda felt like my skin and technique were holding me back. But still a good day out, I enjoyed myself.

[tomtom]

But still a good day out, I enjoyed myself.

^^ This.

[spidermonkey09]

I know it's unfashionable and probably worthy a stoning but might a bit of a taper and trying to engineer a peak in form be an idea if you'e closong in on success, rather than keep thrashing yourself?

  I completely agree. That will probably happen this week now I've given myself a chance to think about it. Resting tonight and climbing tomorrow. Am also not climbing this weekend so will have an enforced few days off. Temperatures look like they're going in the right direction next week too so the omens are good.
Normally I would aim for two rest days, especially after a heavy week, but partners and conditions decide!

[Steve R]

M - wall pm.
T- wall pm
W - rest. 
T- light run
F-  rest
S- wall pm
S-rest

Weight static @ 75kg.  Just maintaining week really... didn't manage to get outside as relatively busy every day finishing work jobs and sorting logistics in order to head back to France this week.  Disappointed not to fit some UK DWS in before leaving but motivated to climb, train and get stuck into local projects once back in France.

[measles23]

On a related subject I have been doing quite a lot of weighted deadhanging this year and have been developing a hard lump on the top of the dip joint on my left middle finger. Doesn’t hurt so not fretting but wondering whether I should be more concerned?

Probably early Heberden’s node, a sign of osteoarthritis; nothing to worry about but prob won’t go away..
I have a couple which hurt but don’t stop me pulling down, and I’m sure related to many years of fingerboarding..

Welcome to old club

[shark]

Thanks measles

[spidermonkey09]

a bit of a taper and trying to engineer a peak in form

How would people here look to do this? My approach to tapering has simply been to have two rest days before redpointing and try and go on good condition days. Any advice welcome.

[tommytwotone]

I can only speak from a running perspective (and then I only puntered a couple of half-marathons), but when I did it I had a full week off which I spent carb-loading.

Think the key thing is a good, long rest to allow your body to totally recover and be as fresh as possible for the 'big day'.

[spidermonkey09]

the 'big day'.

A good rest is definitely a good plan, but building up a specific day in my head as 'the day' is definitely a bad idea for me!

[jwi]

a bit of a taper and trying to engineer a peak in form

How would people here look to do this? My approach to tapering has simply been to have two rest days before redpointing and try and go on good condition days. Any advice welcome.

I don't do much tapering since I'm barely training, but two rest days is not tapering: it's two rest days. (However, it's known that people who only do 2 days a week of strength training benefit from tapering. But on the other hand climbing is much more of a skill sport than lifting.)

Science™ says that proper tapering for strength sports should take 8-14 days for men, likely slightly less for women (this is largely untested – as scientist don't know any women, but practitioners, who do, insists that this is so as women generally recover faster then men), and involve a reduction of total volume by 30-60% while the intensity should go up somewhat. The training frequency should stay about the same.

[spidermonkey09]

two rest days is not tapering: it's two rest days.

Thanks for that, really interesting. My original post should perhaps have read "tapering"!

[Will Hunt]

T - Scavenger on Main Cliff. Brilliant route in a big location. Placed a lot of gear...

W - grim weather inland so went to Holyhead Mountain. Placed a heap of gear going up King Bee Crack... Did some other VSs and HVS stuff.

T - muggy and slow drying in the Pass. Decided to go to the slate and was dismayed that the definitive Ground Up guide is already out of print and apparently they won't be producing any more - presumably because Rockfax have dropped in (how convenient just after the definitive comes out) and completely obliterates the competition in an area that can't sustain more than one guidebook. Cunts. Didn't buy the Rockfax book. Clipped some bolts on some steady stuff.

F - Dinas Mot. Did the Direct and the Cracks. All good stuff. Finished up doing the sit to the Edge Problem back at the car. Looked around the Cromlech Boulders and found them pretty uninspiring, awash with the shit of man and beast.

Was quite dissapointed to be so wobbly and intimidated by the big pitches at a modest HVS grade. I think probably the partner I was climbing with who is a very good friend and perfectly competent climber, but has been out of the game a while and wasn't really up to climbing above HVS so wasn't really psyched up to do anything harder.

S - Drove to Pembroke for family holiday.

S - Newgale Beach North pottering. No pad and sub optimal connies (greasefest) in the caves.

[spidermonkey09]

dismayed that the definitive Ground Up guide is already out of print and apparently they won't be producing any more - presumably because Rockfax have dropped in (how convenient just after the definitive comes out) and completely obliterates the competition in an area that can't sustain more than one guidebook.

That GroundUp guide is a work of art. I'm not sure of the background here but share your dismay at the way GroundUp have been basically removed from areas of the market by Rockfax muscling in. I could tolerate the select guide to the area, although even that replicated the North Wales Rock by GU, but doubling up on a niche area like the slate seemed wrong to me. If the GU one was never going to be reprinted then I stand to be corrected.

[Will Hunt]

dismayed that the definitive Ground Up guide is already out of print and apparently they won't be producing any more - presumably because Rockfax have dropped in (how convenient just after the definitive comes out) and completely obliterates the competition in an area that can't sustain more than one guidebook.

That GroundUp guide is a work of art. I'm not sure of the background here but share your dismay at the way GroundUp have been basically removed from areas of the market by Rockfax muscling in. I could tolerate the select guide to the area, although even that replicated the North Wales Rock by GU, but doubling up on a niche area like the slate seemed wrong to me. If the GU one was never going to be reprinted then I stand to be corrected.

It's total guesswork on my part about the reason for not reprinting. But it seems a plausible reason. Likewise, I'd be happy to be put right.
At least Rockfax have got Mark Reeves to author it who I'd have thought is well genned up, rather than the ludicrous situation you get elsewhere where a non local bombs around getting topo shots and then slaps together a guide.

[petejh]

At least Rockfax have got Mark Reeves to author it who I'd have thought is well genned up, rather than the ludicrous situation you get elsewhere where a non local bombs around getting topo shots and then slaps together a guide.

Which was the approach they took for their abandoned NW Limestone guide - get some cynical tosser who just wants to see his name on a book but who knows close to fuck-all about the area and has zero feel for the place, to zip around knocking up topos to the popular crags and leave out everything esoteric. In a niche area. Hence destroying any chance of a future definitive guide (looking at you Jack G.). They backed down because I didn't. If I had then they would have produced their selective guide. At least the RF slate guide is definitive, that's something. But as said, the GU guide is a work of art and it's a great loss to the area when the cynical cunts of RF come in and produce their shit soulless guides.

[Yossarian]

2 weeks - better late than never...

M - Bowles - good times. Did Digitalis and Serenade Arete a few times. Dogged Temptation which felt way harder than my last go (in early 2000s). No-one seems to have noticed my secret Boyson route direct finish project. Fun times.
T - Decent fingerboard session
W
T - Jungle clearance on the hottest day of the year. Then lengthy fingerboard session - finally feeling I'm making some strength progress.
F
S - Wall. Couple of hours of steep problems, bit of campusing. Finished (unspectacularly) on circuit board.
S

M - Bowles - fingers sore / joint aches, etc. Repeated things from previous week as chum is / was still stuck on the crux of Digitalis. Daughter was on fire on the Fandango wall.
T
W - Started fingerboard session but fingers hurt too much when I started max hangs so gave up.
T
F
S - Wall - Good session trying some harder things, though fingers not feeling great.

Recent progress on fingerboard seems to have resulted in trying harder / adding volume which, perhaps inevitably, has led to some overuse issues.

Going down to Ansteys week after next for a session on Empire of the Sun, and then straight off on bouldering trip with daughter. Preparation for both is mainly going to involve not doing very much and lots of ibuprofen I think.

When I get back I'm planning to get my knackered shoulder looked at by physio, in the hope that I can then plan a load more training and start moving forward again...

[Fiend]

Agree about Slate guide. Real pity GU didn't get a reprint in. Glad I got a copy and that GU did the bouldering bible and OS did the Lime. Credit where it's due, Rockfax found a good niche with the Clywd guide for sure tho.

[highrepute]

proper tapering for strength sports should take 8-14 days.... and involve a reduction of total volume by 30-60% while the intensity should go up somewhat. The training frequency should stay about the same.

Spidermonkey the 9th

I've definitely been at my strongest when climbing a lot less. I'd do two short sessions of an hour a week for two weeks, climb very hard in these sessions but finish very fresh. Then send after this period

However, before I'd properly figured out how to taper for me I would take time off and just be shit.

Sone other light exercise to keep the blood flowing really helps me... Bike ride, hiking, light run, etc

[moose]

I'm forever amazed by the workloads folk on this thread sustain.  Concerted "tapering" here is roughly equivalent to my "really going for it midweek"! 

This year, I've felt like a bit of a hero if I have managed to squeeze in a couple of fingerboard sessions - on the very rare occassions I've managed a brief woodie session I have felt distinctly under-powered at the weekend.   

Age, I guess is the main reason - and being constantly knackered from work (and more concerned about avoiding injury and fatigue, rather than efficiently progressing to a goal).

[tommytwotone]

I'm waiting for Gollum to come along and blow your age argument out of the water!

[moose]

I'm waiting for Gollum to come along and blow your age argument out of the water!

Not unless we're identical twins, separated at birth, and he has the same job!

[Nibile]

I've always found it hard to taper. I like training too much to stop fresh, unless I climbed something hard - an event that does not happen since April 2017.
I love training especially when I feel strong; in the mighty words of Lanny Bassham: when you shoot well, shoot a lot.
Mutatis mutandis.

[teestub]

I'm forever amazed by the workloads folk on this thread sustain.  Concerted "tapering" here is roughly equivalent to my "really going for it midweek"! 

The volume of training one can handle is just as trainable as anything else in climbing, but it involves having a period where climbing performance is reduced to allow for the fatigue of fitness and conditioning training. For me I think being generally fitter and conditioned has helped me feel less tired from work and life stuff and allowed for better quality training, even after long days driving for site work etc.

[spidermonkey09]

proper tapering for strength sports should take 8-14 days.... and involve a reduction of total volume by 30-60% while the intensity should go up somewhat. The training frequency should stay about the same.

Spidermonkey the 9th

I've definitely been at my strongest when climbing a lot less. I'd do two short sessions of an hour a week for two weeks, climb very hard in these sessions but finish very fresh. Then send after this period

However, before I'd properly figured out how to taper for me I would take time off and just be shit.

Sone other light exercise to keep the blood flowing really helps me... Bike ride, hiking, light run, etc

Thanks, thats useful. Suspect the same might be true for me regarding light exercise; even stretching or something just so I don't feel like I'm vegetating.