[shark]

11.4-6

M. Malham. Bit woozy. Slightly hungover. Cons x 3. F&EE x 1 Warm. 3 goes on Oak. Go 1 Horn to top. Go 2 & 3 Throw to crux midway across top traverse. Not terrible but not great either. Threw the towel in early due to thin skin and below par performance and went home.
 
T.

W.

T. 53rd birthday  Malham. Up with Jerome. Sun out. Led F&EE then TR Consx2 then led Appetite. Put in a long stint of belaying while Karl and Naomi where on Oak then had my first go. Minty by this point. Pulled up and got recruited on moves by 2nd and 3rd bolts then led 2nd bolt to top \o/ Go 2 From ground muffed feet and fell by undercut at third bolt Go 3 same point Go 4 Fell setting up for throw when greased off pinch Go 5 Got to top in 3 sections and (re?)discovered a hip swivel which helps marginally on redpoint crux.

F. Took dad to a funeral in Nottingham then drove to Plas Y Brenin.

S. Eventful AGM. All a bit much - the good, the bad and the ugly. After went to Milestone buttress with Offwidth and we had a lovely hour soloing 

S. Meeting and drove back to Sheff

After monday's hangover decided to cut out booze all together till Oak is done. Bit drastic but seems to be the only option for me to reduce intake (as well as provide a further incentive) - so have been booze free this week despite considerable temptation at the weekend.

Thursday was a crunch session and I had decided if it had been similarly poor to the last three sessions then I would lay off it till the autumn so good to get that link especially as I'm not super light yet. Still uncertain about my prospects as I have been here before. Was hoping to climb at LPT both days at weekend but Rob G bailed on me for  Saturday and then I had to bail on Caff on Sunday due to the meeting. However, got a fortuitous text whilst in the meeting from Steve and arranged to go back to Malham tomorrow with him, Paul and Luke D. 
 

[Teaboy]

Have you done that link for. The second bolt before?

[shark]

Have you done that link for. The second bolt before?

Yes - on two previous occasions last year. Once in autumn and once in spring.

[T_B]

M - PM run
T - Rubicon with Mrs T_B and her bro over from Oz. Kudos wall, mint connies. Repeated some stuff inc The Press. Couldn't do sloper match on PLL.
W - PM Long 20k run.
T - PM Millstone T-Rad. Got the band back together (Nic and Ed). Regent st, Coventry st (2nd Nic). Embankment 4 in dark with headtorch. A reminder that you don't do much finger jamming as a boulderer.
F - Lunch Lattice. 1 x 34 x 4, failed on 24th move of 3rd rep, 2nd set. Failed on ? move 2nd rep of 3rd set. Oh dear. 5 x 6a+ autobelays. Pumped.
S - AM snatched 1.5hrs on BSMA after hasty homeboard warm up. Cold rock but sun shining in on the slopers. Arranged clothing on lip to shade them. Best two goes got matched on 2nd sloper. So, just the small matter of moving the heel, reaching the arete and not dabbing whilst topping out. Progress.
S - PM last light run on Blacka Moor. I love Sheffield

Oh yeah, shoulder still not right.
Lots of play this week due to rellies in town, back to the coal (indoor lunch hours) face next wk.
Have lost considerable fitness over last month.

[Sasquatch]

2017 Goal - 19 of 40 Ticked (FYI - goal is to tick 40 7C+ or harder boulder problems that I've not done before - I turn 40 in June...)

A couple of weeks this time

M- Fly down to California
T-Early AM session up in Tahoe, Did White Lines in a couple goes (v8 and 5 star), then managed to send Real Deal v10 (#17), then back to the house by 10:30am. Drive 13 hrs to Oregon
W-Drove rest of way to Gold Bar, short evening session.  Did river arete -v8, and worked Toebriosity-v12.  Did all moves, and linked once to last hard move.
T- Day in Seattle with Family
F- Drove to Leavenworth with wife and brother. super short session in evening, warmed up on Busted-v8, then worked The Practitioner-v11.  Did all moves, and had one good link to second to last move.  Then back to parking lot.  While waiting for wife and brother to get back to car did a v7, and highball v10 next to parking lot.  Then late night drinking and karaoke.
S - Family Reunion stuff loads of eating and drinking
S - Short session back at Toebriosity.  Close but no cigar.  Linked to last hard move 5 times, but couldn't commit to the move w out a spotter.

M- drove to Leavenworth. Mtn bike in Evening
T- early AM session, super greasy, but did a cool v8, and worked a v10.  Mtn bike in Afternoon, then back to Practitioner for second session at dusk.  Made good progress, but got dark and wife was really cold.  Linked to last throw 4 times.
W- Rest - AMAZING Mtn bike - trail called Xanadu, fantastic trail
T- Midday session. Short WU, then fired The Practitioner 1st go of the day (#18), then up to a cool v10 just above it called Chunky Vanilla and managed to send that in a few goes (#19).  Then a late Mtn bike ride on another really good trail called rosy boa. 
F-Short session on another 7C+, but was tired and failed miserably, Drove back to Seattle and had a good night out.
S-Rest/travel back to AK
S-FB -

[moose]

M. Malham. Bit woozy. Slightly hungover. Cons x 3. F&EE x 1 Warm. 3 goes on Oak. Go 1 Horn to top. Go 2 & 3 Throw to crux midway across top traverse. Not terrible but not great either. Threw the towel in early due to thin skin and below par performance and as Moose's presence is like an extra 0.2g of heavy gravity went home.

It's taken a month but, finally, I have some mojo for non-woodie based climbing: slung a top-rope up Predator and liked what I saw.  It might take years, but I feel I have found a foe worthy of that investment.

[TobyD]

Monday turbo 20 minute, foundry aero power, core
Tuesday turbo 20 minute power, Run 4.6km evening
Wednesday turbo 20 minute cadence, foundry aero power
Thursday turbo 20 minute cadence, foundry aero power
Friday yoga & core. 2hr hilly bike ride, 38km. Core & press ups evening.
Saturday yoga & core. Foundry,
Sunday yoga. Foundry: quick visit 20 routes minimal rest. Drove to Devon, operation on Tuesday. Likely out of PC for a while, depends how it goes.

[tomtom]

Progress Shark. Excellent. And a great week Sasq - I love Leavenworth - despite only spending a couple of days there..

M: Wilton 3 playing on the square with a bunch of folk - good fun, no ticks - lots of silly attempts at Rodins Requiem...

Tu:

We: W2 in the hidden wall area. Managed the SS to Slipstream - nice powerful and balancy moves. Failed on Bone Down 7B+..



Th:

Fri: 30 min Yoga

Sa: Back to W2 - Big session on bone down - frustrating - esp as foothold snapped when I had pulled past the crux and was getting established (go 1 on vid below)



Not quite the same as Leavenworth

[csl]

Drove to Devon, operation on Tuesday. Likely out of PC for a while, depends how it goes.

Good luck Toby!

[csl]

STG - april

- Boulder > 7a - done, according to guidebook grades, though both felt pretty soft to me.
- 3 days outside - 3/3
- Do something good in N. Wales - done

MTG - end of summer

- Do something good in Font

LTG - this time next year

not sure

Monday

Went to the Biscuit Factory to try the comp wall set, felt tired and tweaky. Not sure I managed anything hard, so decided not to train for the rest of the week.

Tuesday - Friday

Nothing

Saturday

5am start, drove to Wales.

Crafnant

- Warmed up on a few 4's and 5's at the bottom of the crag.
- Realised where "Breakaway" gets its name with close call #1 of the day, a hold broke whilst is was going for the top, sending me flying back and missing the pads. Felt like it put me on edge for the rest of the day.
- Special K finish 6C, 2nd go
- Tried Special K 7C, such an amazing line, shame about the landing. Probably not one to try on your own with 1.5 pads as I soon discovered by tumbling down into a spikey rock filled pit at the bottom and mashing my leg up for close call #2. Managed all the moves, and overlapping halves from one move in -> to 6C finish. But was terrified being up there alone and without enough pads. A bunch of people showed up and padded it out properly later in the afternoon, but by then I was wasted and couldn't put many moves together.

- Went to look at Pit Start and Harvey Oswald at Milestone in the evening, but my skin was worryingly thin so saved it for Sunday.

Sunday

Sheep Pen

- Dog Shooter 6B, second go.
- Toe Dragon into Dog Shooter 7A+, decided on a sequence into Dog Shooter then did first go from the start. Felt a bit too easy, but first 7A+ according to the topo/ukc.

Tan Y Grisau

- Geoff's Roof 7A+, brushed the holds then did this onsight. First 7A+ onsight (according to the topo/ukc, felt too easy as well)

Popped in to Rhiw Goch on the way home and did Gap of Rohan 6B and failed on Moria 7B, skin was screaming.

[Nibile]

Drove to Devon, operation on Tuesday. Likely out of PC for a while, depends how it goes.

Good luck Toby!

Yup! Good luck man!

[shark]

M. Malham. Bit woozy. Slightly hungover. Cons x 3. F&EE x 1 Warm. 3 goes on Oak. Go 1 Horn to top. Go 2 & 3 Throw to crux midway across top traverse. Not terrible but not great either. Threw the towel in early due to thin skin and below par performance and as Moose's presence is like an extra 0.2g of heavy gravity went home.

It's taken a month but, finally, I have some mojo for non-woodie based climbing: slung a top-rope up Predator and liked what I saw.  It might take years, but I feel I have found a foe worthy of that investment.

 

[Nibile]

Did I tell you I climbed my board project? Well if I didn't tell you, I'll tell you now: I climbed my board project!

Mon -  board climbing, very close on project, getting excited. Front lever pulls, snatch pulls 10 x 3.
Tue - rest.
Wed - board climbing, climbed my fucking four years long project. Out of nowhere, closed the account with surgical accuracy. Brilliant.
Thu - climbing class. Tired.
Fri - one arm hangs on San Power hold (+ 17 kg) and Lattice Edge (+ 8 kg) Brutal. Big volume. Deadlifts 10 x 68 kg + 7 front lever pulls, all x 3. Phew.
Sat - weights and boxing bag. Was on fire, due to good sleep and a bucket of high-protein Greek youghurt mixed with honey, nuts and... protein powder.
Sun - boxing bag and deadlifts with a friend. Very cool.

Amazing week despite early mornings and commuting to fucking Florence every fucking day. Extraordinary peak of form. The project and the one arm hangs were some of the best days ever. I want more.

[nik at work]

Drove to Devon, operation on Tuesday. Likely out of PC for a while, depends how it goes.

All the best with this Toby.

[nai]

daft stg: better/equal best trad (E4), boulder (7C) & Sport OS (7b) & RP (8a) grades in the 100 days around 50th birthday (if I'd posted yesterday it was 100 days until 1st August which is the last day of a trip before summer holiday childcare will stop play).  Boulder problem could be the stopper, will need a long 7C (likely Ben's Roof but other Peak suggestions welcome).

season goals: 8a+, E5, OS 7b+

Mon - AnCap - used a 2kg weight belt for 5 of the 6 problems which made the intensity about right, couple of problems need swapping up though.

Tue - AeroPow - Foot on campussing.  About the same opening scores as last year. Slightly disappointing but the rungs have become super slick recently.

Wed rest

Thu - had plans for Two-Tier but turns out partner thought we were out on Wednesday.
Found a partner for Rubicon but not until 6 and I was free from 3:30 so went down early to boulder. Wasn't planning to do much, just a bit of benchmarking, but started trying that 7A traverse on the approach wall and couldn't leave it alone....
Got on The Sissy for the first time in two years, first burn was great, did all the important moves and felt strong on it. Second go couldn't do the hand match but I put that down to trying a different shoe that made everything feel harder.  Third go skin and muscle was shot.  Disappointing finish but on the strength of the first attempt I'm calling it a goer.

Fri - woke up stiff and sore but only had a window first thing. 10 minutes of sun salutations plus some hanging off jugs with feet on the floor saw me mobile enough for 40 mins of LI AeroCap.

SS - rest - tiny bit of yoga, some foam rolling and stretching.  Back feeling tweaky.  Feel a wreck this morning.

[nai]

Drove to Devon, operation on Tuesday. Likely out of PC for a while, depends how it goes.

Good luck Toby!

Yup! Good luck man!

All the best, Toby.

[nai]

- Toe Dragon into Dog Shooter 7A+, decided on a sequence into Dog Shooter then did first go from the start. Felt a bit too easy, but first 7A+ according to the topo/ukc.

Tan Y Grisau

- Geoff's Roof 7A+, brushed the holds then did this onsight. First 7A+ onsight (according to the topo/ukc, felt too easy as well)

Good effort 

[T_B]

nai- ref 7C Fine Beta at Anston is good and power-endurancy.

[TobyD]

Drove to Devon, operation on Tuesday. Likely out of PC for a while, depends how it goes.

Good luck Toby!

Yup! Good luck man!

All the best, Toby.

Thanks all. Final day today: out on bike shortly, and then cook something really good for tea before a week of NBM, or hospital food. 

Talking of which:

M. Malham. [/s]as Moose's presence is like an extra 0.2g of heavy gravity went home.

 

Have you made him eat something other than coffee Simon? I'm surprised it's as much as 0.2.

[the_dom]

Mon: Rocklands was boiling and I was totally out of skin and energy, so decided to sack it off and go home. Short, tired hangboard session in the evening.

Tues: Short run on the treadmill at lunch as a result of hugely limited motivation for anything not involving climbing at the moment - the convenient treadmill runs / walks are about all I can stomach.

Wed: Lunchtime deadlifts and kettlebell swings - interesting and tough combo; decent PM hangboard session

Thurs: A decent bouldering session that was cut short when my finger felt a little tweaky. Still managed a total of 19 problems between 6B and 7Bish in 60 mins.

Fri: Feeling pretty tired but forced myself into a short hike/jog.

Sat: Another decent bouldering session, followed up by a short hangboard session, camp using around on the BM2k slopers.

Sun: Good day out – went to Redhill for what feels like the first time in ages, with the intention of circuiting some of the classics. The classics, unfortunately, felt quite hard but I managed to leave having done two 7As, a 7A+, two 7Bs and a 7C, so rather happy with that.

[Luke Owens]

Drove to Devon, operation on Tuesday. Likely out of PC for a while, depends how it goes.

Good luck buddy!

Wed - board climbing, climbed my fucking four years long project. Out of nowhere, closed the account with surgical accuracy. Brilliant.

Yes Nibs! Strong effort! 

[Luke Owens]

Shambles of a week last week with illness but a nice end to it with good weather on the weekend.

M - F: ill

S: Felt better and went to Cbeebies land with the family.

S: Dawn raid on the mountains - Got up at 6am and went over to the Pass to try King of Drunks, amazing weather. I tried this a few times a couple of years ago and didn't get anywhere on it. Did the stand start (6C) to it in a few goes which feels hard enough on it's own. Worked out the heel method for the sit and then fell off the last move of the stand from the sit. Then did the same about 4-5 times. Very close but that top move is frustrating!

Thin skin and lack of time meant I nipped in a few goes on Arse Soul (7A) on the way back down and fell off the last move feeling strong when a foot slipped, didn't have any time left to rest long enough for another go. Happy for it to feel miles easier than when I last tried it last year.

[tk421a]

Good week!
Malham trip over the long weekend, ticked a few 7a+s, met Shark.
W: In the Pass, ticked Jerrys Roof, first 7C woop! Spent a few sessions on it last summer, and just a half session after a day of trad last week. Tried the crux move on its own and go it fine, previously was a 1/10 move. Worked out moves to the top section. Then did it second proper go. Tremadog trad afterwards.
Th: Short run up Moel Eilio
F: Parisellas. Spent some time on Lou Ferrigno, managed the first 2 moves individually...maybe there's potential. Lip Service 7A+ 2nd go, then tried Clever Beaver Low start, linking into Lip Service (7B+), but was too powered out by the last move at the end of a 6 hour session.
S: -
Su: Boardroom, retested myself on lattice and campus ancap (15 moves laddering).

Really stoked with Jerrys. Got some work coming up so mostly training next few weeks rather than climbing.

Toby, good luck wiht the op.

[Coops_13]

- Do something good in N. Wales - done

Looked like a good weekend, shame I missed it! Next time...

[Scouse D]

Nai, tarantula is a good 7C to session. Not easy but easy to work