There's a video of Ben talking someone through a training session on a moonboard at last years Kendal film fest (with an audience) that would be worth looking at imho- there he talks about trying problems that you can't quite do etc...
I'd be interested in how others structure their sessions to get the most from them in terms of difficulty of problems, number of attempts, sticking with one problem or trying multiple, rest times, etc.
Covered recently:http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,27641.0.html
Also the training advice posted next to the Moonboard (at least it is on the one I use) is a good guide for training power - pick a problem at your limit/just above your limit. Set a timer to 10 minutes and within that time give it four tries giving 100% effort each try. Have 15mins rest. Repeat with a different problem.For campussing if you can do 135 on the large rungs I'd stick to this size and try to progress as per below. If there's half rungs to help the transition then all the better.1-3-41-2-41-3-51-4-51-2-51-4-61-3-61-5-61-4-71-5-71-3-71-5-81-5-9
I don't think my experience is of much help for you, given that I basically don't climb on rock anymore, so I don't have to peak or plan anything specifically. As you probably know, I treat my board as a bouldering destination, and this means that now more than a training tool, it's the crag at which I want to perform. In the last three years or so I've barely set 10 warm-up problems of various difficulties, dedicating 90% of the sessions to redpointing old projects. Usually I stick to just one problem, and I siege it until I do it (this could mean months or even entire seasons). Sometimes, depending on how I feel, I mix it up a bit trying small bits of other problems to give skin a break and change prehensions. On the rare occasions in which I climb with someone else, I prefer to take it a bit easier mentally and just try small bits of projects or even just new problems that my friends set, trying to flash them and then maybe tweaking them until they feel properly hard but still quickly doable in the session. If it comes out really hard, I write it down and it goes to the bottom of the projects list. For my redpointing sessions I usually do a general theraband warm-up, and then a fingers specific warm-up on the BM. Depending on available time, I can also do some recruitment work with snatches or broad jumps or jump squats. Then I try all the moves in isolation, staying put in each position. Big rest. Then usually three or four tries, then I'm done. HTH.
For my board sessions I've always picked 4 main projects a session - at or above my current limit. I'll have between 4-6 goes on each, either sections or full attempts and then rotate to the next problem. I also choose each of those problems so they have different style moves. I've been out of climbing a while and haven't had my first campus session back yet but when I used to campus a lot I did it in six week cycles with two week breaks at the end I would do v specific exercises. I'd campus once a week for the first four weeks, then up that to twice a week for the last two usually - warm up until I am having a go on a project (usually after 45 mins), take four goes and then go to the campus board so I am strong and not going tired. Campusing in my opinion is about pulling on strong each time and with good form, too often you see people swinging around. The key is also to design your sessions around progress and write them down. If you're at 1-3-5 I would do three reps on each arm of ladders of 1-2-51-3-51-4-5Then try three times 1-4-6That way you're working at each of the different points the arm needs to be at to latch and pull through. Once you do 1-4-6 consistently then:1-4-6 x31-3-6 x31-5-6 x31-5-7 x3 (attempts at you're limit)1-4-71-5-71-5-8I used to add 4x8 reps of 1-4 touches after my ladders where you focus each time on locking for as long as possible with your hand hovering over the 4th rung before you take it and then drop back down in control. Once you get solid at this stage you can use the campus board in different ways by developing exercises to work your weaknesses.
I used to do it for as long as possible - it won't be very long but it will get better quickly. Just try and hold your hand over the rung for a split second before taking it and then going back down in control. Imagine your hand hovering over the rung and your other shoulder locking to hold that position. You'll often see people just slapping the rung and going back down and in my opinion you get very little from that. By the sounds of it you can do 1-3-5 easily, 1-4-6 won't be far off. Basically your arm just doesn't have the power when further extended to pull two rungs or more, so by working that regime you'll improve really quickly.I used to be really focussed on campus/board/fingerboard sessions and tend not to mix them too much to ensure quality session - a board session until I'm trying a project a few times then stop and have a quality campus board session.
Feels much easier leading with my weaker arm for some reason. Easier to push with the stronger one perhaps?
Everyone I know is stronger locking off on their non-dominant arm, for whatever reason.
Once you do 1-4-6 consistently then:1-4-6 x31-3-6 x31-5-6 x31-5-7 x3 (attempts at you're limit)1-4-71-5-71-5-8......
Maybe... I assumed he meant going with your weak arm first, so if you're doing 1-3-5: weak arm to 3, strong arm through to 5. If that's the case, then you need much more lock on the weak arm for that movement. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
No problem. Other thing I used to do was specific exercises to work weaknesses, I think this is where the campus board can come in really useful. After everything above I would rotate in the following lock off ladders - these sound easy but when done properly are desperately hard. I think they are really effective at teaching you to lock deep.Take 1 + 2 pull up as high as you can, take your lower hand off and as slowly as possible take 3, repeat all the way to 9. You should aim for your lower arm to be down by your armpit and eventually you should slowly static every move - to start you'll snatch it, but the beauty is you just go against your own body's limit, as a result its actually fine on the elbows - you feel it heavily in your forearms. I'd do 4 sets of these on each arm on mediums.One arm catch - developed this to help improve my contact strength. Stand under the board and jump to the 4th medium rung with one arm, catch it and hold it for 4 seconds. All this relies on is the ability for you to catch a hold in a split second, I saw huge contact strength gains from this - started un able to do it on mediums, within 3 months could full sets on smalls. 4 sets of 4 reps.1-5 lock - take 1 throw to 5 push up until you are on the tips of your lower fingers and lock off for 10 seconds then lower back down to 1 - this one needs big breaks as it is pretty brutal, 3 sets of 1 rep on each arm. Could do 1-5-8.5 static after doing this for two months. I wouldn't touch the last two until you can do 1-5-8 every time, they are really intense.