Quote from: petejh on July 04, 2016, 12:28:11 pmSTG: first 8b+ (Mecca), by mid JulyMTG:LTG: 8c, by June 2018Get well soon Toby.M. Core and mobility seshT. W. Tor. Partner couldn't make it so bouldered. Worked out the moves on Weedkiller Traverse then did it.T. Kettlebell workoutF. S. Tot. Mecca sesh 6. Refined the traverse. Then managed to make the drop knee work to get the razor backhand, minor progress! Need to refine drop knee as having to go off bottom foothold makes throw to ear too stretched. Did groove to chains without much difficulty on 2nd go up, but then powered out on it on my third go up.S. Dulas Cave. Couple of warm-ups then got ass handed to me by a doylo 7b (Tony Stud). Pockets were wet though. Then worked out 'Yankee Doodle Pigeon' with beta from the man himself. Cool bouldery route - 7B on a rope. Felt like would have had a good chance of doing it in a sesh if fresh but too powered down from previous climbing. Skin trashed.I was waiting for a proper slagging of Tony Stud
STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), by mid JulyMTG:LTG: 8c, by June 2018Get well soon Toby.M. Core and mobility seshT. W. Tor. Partner couldn't make it so bouldered. Worked out the moves on Weedkiller Traverse then did it.T. Kettlebell workoutF. S. Tot. Mecca sesh 6. Refined the traverse. Then managed to make the drop knee work to get the razor backhand, minor progress! Need to refine drop knee as having to go off bottom foothold makes throw to ear too stretched. Did groove to chains without much difficulty on 2nd go up, but then powered out on it on my third go up.S. Dulas Cave. Couple of warm-ups then got ass handed to me by a doylo 7b (Tony Stud). Pockets were wet though. Then worked out 'Yankee Doodle Pigeon' with beta from the man himself. Cool bouldery route - 7B on a rope. Felt like would have had a good chance of doing it in a sesh if fresh but too powered down from previous climbing. Skin trashed.
Quote from: Doylo on July 04, 2016, 02:23:18 pmI was waiting for a proper slagging of Tony Stud It's a pile of eliminate reachy garbage. Not your finest hour on a rope. Only route in the 2nd edition that will get a black spot (because I didn't get up it).
I was waiting for a proper slagging of Tony Stud
and tried to find corridors of power - where the fuck is it?!
Quote from: petejh on July 04, 2016, 09:03:55 pmQuote from: Doylo on July 04, 2016, 02:23:18 pmI was waiting for a proper slagging of Tony Stud It's a pile of eliminate reachy garbage. Not your finest hour on a rope. Only route in the 2nd edition that will get a black spot (because I didn't get up it).It would be 3 stars at the Tor...
Nik and Toby, heal soon!
F. Fingerboard. PM. Started at lunchtime but had to pop into office so 2.5hr break in middle. Dropped assisted weight again. Just 5kg+ assistance for right arm on large slot now.
Quote from: shark on July 06, 2016, 09:48:26 pmF. Fingerboard. PM. Started at lunchtime but had to pop into office so 2.5hr break in middle. Dropped assisted weight again. Just 5kg+ assistance for right arm on large slot now. To do what? Deadhang? One armer?
Cheers Shark. I don't have any meaningful comment to add I'm afraid, i was just curious.
On the BM2000? If so, care to identify the large slot here: