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UKB Power Club week 306 4th Jan 2016 - 10th Jan 2016 (Read 15461 times)

tomtom

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Brilliant TB!

Wood FT

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Nice write up TB

Falling Down

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MTG Mar): weight 78kg, do a load of good routes Siurana/Monsant - Flash a 7A


Tikis Mikis at Siurana is a fantastic trad groove corner @ 7a. Suits those who like bridging and the odd jam, plus it has rests. Did it yesterday - highly recommended.

Thanks Tom - good suggestion.  I did a cracking groove / finger crack at TV crag on a prior visit that suited me and was a welcome diversion from crimping up a wall.  There's another line I fancy up at Monsant if I can get enough fitness as they're all so damn long.

Just read your trip report whilst I was typing this.  Great write up - I'm super psyched now!

SA Chris

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Happy 40th to me!

Good work youth. Happy Birthday

cheque

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Good effort Shark and T_B!  :strongbench: Makes me want to go on a sport trip. Good job this time of year seems good for Spain as it's probably going to be a year before I'm able to!

STG-7s/ Extremes on grit this season. Wall of Horrors before it's too hot again.
MTG- 7b/+ in 2016
LTG- 8a

M- Pushups.

Tu- Notts Depot. Tried the remaining comp problems but too weak for any of them. Got on the circuit board to find that they're harder than usual but don't climb particularly well (does anyone like figure-of-eight style circuits?). Did a few more problems.

W- Rest.

Th- Notts Depot. New Yellows (second-hardest circuit, the ones I used to be able to do about 75% of but since finger-injury layoff have struggled on): did 7, flashing 4 of them! This wasn't with spending the whole session on them either, in fact most of the session was spent attempting to redpoint the "6c" circuit board circuit. Felt strong and powerful for the first time in ages  ;D Fingers feeling pretty swollen by the end though- always happens when I climb indoors three times in a week though.

F- Pushups.

Sa- Rest.

Su- Burbage West. When the forecast was shit I planned to go for a drizzly walk along Stanage with my girlfriend. Turned out it was actually really nice so I left her in the car to read for an hour and hopped out for a quick boulder. Turned out to be a good decision as I arrived at the crag to find Highrepute  :wave: Did Go West and had a few goes on The Nose then went for the Stanage Walk. Good day.

Seem to have seen some tangible success from my recent training- I've definitely lost weight since Christmas ( I never need to lose much to feel the benefit- must be something to do with being weak...) and feel stronger since I've been putting work into the indoor limit bouldering sessions. Someone said on one of those scientificy training threads that I try to concentrate on that adaption time for building power is 6-8 weeks so that would make sense.

Luke Owens

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Happy Birthday TB, strong trip! Nice one!

36chambers

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Cheers tomtom and Luke and everyone else :beer2:

(and Happy Birthday TB, sounds like an awesome trip).
 
At least there's no chance of him doing it for the downgrade.

He's still burnt me off a good few times... :)

Good effort 36chambers, keelhaul next?

Cheers, I've yet to try the moves but I'm keen to check it out. I've done Exorcist short in two halves so that's also tempting. But maybe I should be more adventurous and try something that isn't on DWR.   

Will Hunt

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Good effort 36chambers, keelhaul next?

Cheers, I've yet to try the moves but I'm keen to check it out.

What what? I thought you had taken a vow of Keel boulder chastity? Is Keelhaul less reachy? If so, you will fucking destroy it Nathaniel. You're an animal.  :boxing:

If you're looking for non cliff projects then now is surely the time for Jason's Roof? Or a look at the unclimbed thing at Rochard - the sort of thing you'd walk all over. There's also an unclimbed break traverse at Sigsworth which looks tricky. Just the kind of problem you'd like actually. Slopers and power endurance. And then there's Hood Crag!
« Last Edit: January 12, 2016, 12:58:59 pm by Will Hunt »

tomtom

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Good effort 36chambers, keelhaul next?

Cheers, I've yet to try the moves but I'm keen to check it out. I've done Exorcist short in two halves so that's also tempting. But maybe I should be more adventurous and try something that isn't on DWR.

If that doesn't suit, I understand there a whole load of mid 7's and random remote moorland locations that require downgrading ;)

Will Hunt

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Good effort 36chambers, keelhaul next?

Cheers, I've yet to try the moves but I'm keen to check it out. I've done Exorcist short in two halves so that's also tempting. But maybe I should be more adventurous and try something that isn't on DWR.

If that doesn't suit, I understand there a whole load of mid 7's 6s and low sevens and random remote moorland locations that require downgrading ;)

 :P

36chambers

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If you're looking for non cliff projects then now is surely the time for Jason's Roof?!

If only I had the luxury of crag choice. I was on my way to Brimham, on Sunday, when we received news that it was gopping and had began hailing/snowing over there. Almscliff was as reliable as ever. 

Dolly

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Hello again Power club.
First post since last July/August or summat.
Too much work and too much weight stopped me doing much. Then I tore my hamstring at the start of October, so there was no point in posting.


Anyway, its now in rehab, I'm doing my daily physio and I've just started climbing outside again.


M
T 10 easy routes at the gym
W
T Foundry campussing. Weights in the evening. Think I overdid it a bit
F
S Hour of power on my board in S8's premium shed based wooden training facility. Found it hard and tried hard
S


I'll do more this week




filz

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Dolly welcome back!

Shark, T_B  awesome trip :strongbench:

Mon: nothing. My arm was still aching
Tue: light weight, 2x tabata with barbell
Wed: climbing at my board with friends. Nice hard session. We set and climbed 3 new problems, then tried some old ones.
Thu: another board session. I tried to do some PE, but was too tired from previous day.
Fri: lunch break: body weight workout (push ups, L-sits, handstands, tuck planche). In the evening ring training and front lever progressions
Sat: fb max hangs. Ring rows, ab-wheel
Sun: weights. Loaded carries, weighted pushups, planks, clean and press

I've yet to touch rock in 2016, but it was a good training week.

Wood FT

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Mo -
Tu - Awesome walls, 6 or 7 routes up to 6c, then it got very busy so bouldered for a bit and wasn't impressed.
We -
Tu - Works, no real focus and got sucked into too much social but left with tired fingers. 
Fr -
Sa - Wave, did the yellow/black which had eluded me for some time due to one move, struggled to reach high point on black/white. 2 x 10 mins at the end.
Su - Stanton Moor, did the sandbag left arete of the Andlestone then couldn't get body in the right position for the top of the very good 7B wall. Finished off by frantically climbing Brad's Arete/Presence of Absence as I dropped the flash and everyone was packing up. Pulled on Brad's Rib but it felt nails.

A tired first week which was understandable after having too much fun in a wet Northumberland. The day out bouldering was fun and goes some way to fulfilling one of the year aims. Good level of enthusiasm and with a few days off next week, before new job, I hope to try a few other boulders on the list.

TobyD

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Goals: rehab collateral ligament sprain; address massive deficiency on most hold types other than crimps; redpoint >7c in week in Margalef in Feb / Mar; redpoint 1 yorkshire project as soon as its warm enough

Mo - 30 minute run
Tu - foundry board, worked some pocket problems, <8 move problems on variety of hold types, pinches, undercuts mainly
We - foundry board, longer problems <15 moves
Thu - ashtanga yoga class, 30 minute run, core exercises on trx
Fri - a few deadhangs on pockets; shorter board problems
Sa - longer board problems, slopers and pinches; 5-10 (8?) x min on / off campussing to failure on final set
Su - 10- 15 routes up to 6c+; felt pretty ruined on anything steeper, unsurprising considering previous 2 days

seankenny

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MTG Mar): weight 78kg, do a load of good routes Siurana/Monsant - Flash a 7A


Tikis Mikis at Siurana is a fantastic trad groove corner @ 7a. Suits those who like bridging and the odd jam, plus it has rests. Did it yesterday - highly recommended.

Does anyone have any good recommendations for Siruana 7bs? Not short and bouldery as I'm weak as a kitten.

csl

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MTG Mar): weight 78kg, do a load of good routes Siurana/Monsant - Flash a 7A


Tikis Mikis at Siurana is a fantastic trad groove corner @ 7a. Suits those who like bridging and the odd jam, plus it has rests. Did it yesterday - highly recommended.

Does anyone have any good recommendations for Siruana 7bs? Not short and bouldery as I'm weak as a kitten.

 :thumbsup:

Wood FT

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MTG Mar): weight 78kg, do a load of good routes Siurana/Monsant - Flash a 7A


Tikis Mikis at Siurana is a fantastic trad groove corner @ 7a. Suits those who like bridging and the odd jam, plus it has rests. Did it yesterday - highly recommended.

Does anyone have any good recommendations for Siruana 7bs? Not short and bouldery as I'm weak as a kitten.

On the left hand side of Can Piqui Pugui there's a great 7a+/7b, I'd recommend that to anyone

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=18203

rodma

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3 weeks in one

Did pullups and pressups (and some curlups and planks on occasion) twice a week for the Christmas/New year weeks, which was definitely better than nothing given the previous weeks' efforts

This week had a foot on campus session on the Wednesday and Friday (chez rodma) and had a wall session on the sunday with easy campus warmup.

am back on it, the entire family has been lurgy free for two weeks and is getting about the right amount of sleep  :great:


Hugh

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STG: Lose the Xmas blubber. 7B. More grit sessions.
MTG: Don't get broken.

Mon: TCA, 4x4s and aerocap.
Tue: Max hangs, +20kg 16mm, managed about 6s max
Wed: TCA, quick woody session. Good fun, still feeling the holidays but improving steadily.
Thu: Nowt.
Fri: Squeezed in a TCA session, mucked about on the new 6c-7b circuit. Did a bunch of problems (the soft ones  ;) )
Sat: 5km run. Knackered from new commute (by bike), which is twice the distance of the old.
Sun: Mate's birthday day-trip to the Peak. Went to Stanage Left with the intention of doing Beauty. Good times having a quick crack at Chip Shop Brawl - got reasonably far and confident it'll go with a bit more time. Had to retreat due to wind and lack of feeling in fingers, sadly had to miss out on Beauty as was busy, but then did Cock O The Rock and ended the day watching the birthday boy do the Buckstone Dyno as a great end to the day.

Nice write-ups Shark and T_B. Great images from Habrich - quite jealous!
Hopefully back up to the grit next week...

Three Nine

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STG: Lose the Xmas blubber. 7B. More grit sessions.
MTG: Don't get broken.

Mon: TCA, 4x4s and aerocap. Wasted time and recovery capital doing stuff that wont help my bouldering.
Tue: Max hangs, +20kg 16mm, managed about 6s max
Wed: TCA, quick woody session. Was a fuck ton stronger than Three Nine, man he is a little prick. Even tho i'm fat from Christmas I am strong enough to piss any 7B around.
Thu: Nowt.
Fri: Squeezed in a TCA session, mucked about on the new 6c-7b circuit. Did a bunch of problems (the soft ones  ;) )
Sat: 5km run. Knackered from new commute (by bike), which is twice the distance of the old.
Sun: Mate's birthday day-trip to the Peak. Went to Stanage Left with the intention of doing Beauty. Good times having a quick crack at Chip Shop Brawl - got reasonably far and confident it'll go with a bit more time. Had to retreat due to wind and lack of feeling in fingers, sadly had to miss out on Beauty as was busy, but then did Cock O The Rock and ended the day watching the birthday boy do the Buckstone Dyno as a great end to the day.

Nice write-ups Shark and T_B. Great images from Habrich - quite jealous!
Hopefully back up to the grit next week...

Amended for you.

TobyD

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[
Does anyone have any good recommendations for Siruana 7bs? Not short and bouldery as I'm weak as a kitten.

mandragora? I know it gets 7b+ (or used to?) but it is long i.e. easy if you're weak but fit

Muenchener

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Margalef where the routes aren't  too long, the climbing felt very basic and you could just pull and climb quickly.

That's my autumn trip planned then. Thanks

Hugh

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.....
Wed: TCA, quick woody session. Was a fuck ton stronger than Three Nine, man he is a little prick. Even tho i'm fat from Christmas I am strong enough to piss any 7B around.
.....

Amended for you.

Ha, better translate that into actually dragging my lardy ass up one then  ;)

 

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