[cheque]

Weighed clothes to see how much I could save for RP attempts, like you do.

What was the weight of the succesful outfit nai? 

Hold tight all ill kid massive.

STG- Extremes/ 7s on grit this season. Wall of Horrors before it's too hot again.

MTG- 7b/+ in 2016

LTG- 8a

M- Notts Depot. Set a session target of 5 yellow (second hardest circuit) problems. Did 3, very nearly 4.

Tu- Swimming- 35 minutes breaststroke. As I've said before, my technique for swimming is awful and I seem to expend twice as much energy as anyone else in the pool to travel at half the speed. I'm pretty sure there's no climbing training value to it either. I do strangely enjoy it though and as my girlfriend has planar fasciitis and can't run for a while I'll be swimming with her regularly this winter.

W- Rest. Video editing so 3.5 hours sleep. 

Th- Rest. Falling asleep at the wheel driving home from work. Needed to edit though so another 3.5 hours sleep. Reeling around like Kelvin after his Maxpax by the time I made it to bed. 

F- Rest. Feeling totally fucked. Weekend plan was to go and do Corornation Street at Cheddar but I had to phone my mate and tell him that I wouldn't be able to drive down, let alone climb 5 pitches the next day. Luckily he informed me that the weather was gash anyway and that he wanted to make his inaugral visit to Almscliff on Sunday instead.

Sa- Rest. Slept late, tidied house and psyched myself up to give Wall of Horrors a shot the next day. Feeling surprisingly good and confident!

Su- Almscliff. Bloody freezing when we got there. Started up Western Front but felt weak, cold and unwarmed-up. Tried WoH start with my rack still on- felt desperate and couldn't do the last move. Took rack off and did it- felt like I was floating! Still felt way too hard though and I'd gone from not being warmed-up to feeling totally burnt out- clearly after-effects from late nights in week. Seconded mate on the big 3 HVSs- fell of Demon Wall twice! At the end of the session I was offered the chance to second WoH. I made a quick decision to take it but couldn't do the boulder problem again- with hindsight I'm glad as I really want to climb this route in as good a style as possible.

A lovely day on Sunday. I've stopped getting stressed by "high gravity days" especially when there's an obvious reason for it.

[SA Chris]

2 weeks

M - Bouldering session - 2 hours, felt OK, did some good stuff including a V5 on 45 deg board I'd dismissed as being too nasty on a couple of holds, but a mate showed me some new beta so got it done quite quickly
T - some weights
W - Another bouldering session managed the two probs I wanted to do fairly early on som spent rest of session repeating some stuff and making little progress on others.
T - started packing
F - finished packing. Feel head cold coming on.
S - drive to York, knackered. Stupidly checked work phone and then was up until 12:30 trying to get something sorted for the Dubai office for next day
S - kids stuff.
M - kids stuff daytime. Session at Red Goat Climbing Centre. Nice little wall, but intimidatingly busy when I got there at just after 8, but just had to shoulder in and get on with it. Later met up with Stabbsy and got a few good harder things done, ended up as a good session. (thanks for beta and lift back!)
T - kids stuff
W - drive to Stafford. Sadly stopping in Peak never materialised, due to leaving late and shite traffic. Brief stop at Meadowhell instead.
T - Drayton Manor. Mostly went on rides with kids, got on Apocalypse though, fucking ace!! Slow drive home.
F - late start to Brimham. Bit cold and damp, hoped kids would moan and want to stay in van, but they ran around trying to launch off boulders and get wedged under them, so no chance of bouldering for me. Still at least they loved it.
S - drove home. Long way, knackered.
S - Weigh in 13st 9, gained 5 lbs in a week from eating crap all day.
Afternoon wall session. Felt tired, weak and fat, hopefully will pass.

[nai]

Weighed clothes to see how much I could save for RP attempts, like you do.

What was the weight of the succesful outfit nai? 

Despite it being only 8 degrees I just wore a pair of shorts.  Fortunately the crag was deserted on Friday.  Saved 300g over a tee shirt & trousers combo, not sure if it made any difference.  I did drop 4kg since the start of September though, not sure I'd have done it without losing all that.

Thanks for all the support guys, much appreciated.  Been a fairly tough and disappointing year with hold breakage denying me HFC in April then injuring a finger in June so it's great to end it on such a high.

[tk421a]

Hey, I've been missing for a couple of weeks through injury. I picked up a neck spasm that meant I couldn't twist or look up . All fixed now! Managed a few dead hangs in that time.

STG: Do more of the V7+ circuit at the local wall, currently topping ~20% of them.
MTG: Font 7B+/C - planning a trip in April. 8a next year.

M: Injured
T: Injured
W: Gym session at work, rowing warmup + some pullups/core followed by 15mins on a treadmill testing out pace for a duathlon.
Th: Fingerboard at home - Eva Lopez Max hangs, plus a go at 5mins with feet on just building up a small pump (is it a bad idea to do it after max hangs?)
F: Vauxwall - top end bouldering, doing a v6 on their comp wall
S: Vauxwall - top end bouldering, tried some V7s, also tested my campus strength, I can do 1357 as a benchmark for future use
Su: Duathlon round hyde park - I suck at running, came 97th overall out of 183. But came 48th on the bike and 110th on the run...maybe I should try going running more than twice a year.

Looking forward to getting back on the wall now my neck's sorted.

[AlistairB]

Weighed clothes to see how much I could save for RP attempts, like you do.

What was the weight of the succesful outfit nai? 

Despite it being only 8 degrees I just wore a pair of shorts.  Fortunately the crag was deserted on Friday.  Saved 300g over a tee shirt & trousers combo, not sure if it made any difference.  I did drop 4kg since the start of September though, not sure I'd have done it without losing all that.

Thanks for all the support guys, much appreciated.  Been a fairly tough and disappointing year with hold breakage denying me HFC in April then injuring a finger in June so it's great to end it on such a high.

Congrats, good persistence, must've been stressful being close so late in the season, there's always that fear of one terminal downpour before the next session.

I'm also impressed that if I read your posts right you did the route the first time you linked the roof? I fell from the move to the undercut pockets a decent number of times from the floor, found the roof OK though. Always interesting to hear other people's experiences of routes.

[tomtom]

Mostly a good week Nice one Sasq...

M: CragX. Met up with Shark who was in a philosophical mood and was keen to get stuck into Jericho Road. I did my best to provide him with as much tall person beta as possible to confuse him - in the meantime, I flitted from problem to problem, like an unsuccessful ladies man in a 1980's nightclub. Zippys, Cherokee lane, a little tickle on Jericho Road.. in the end I became interested (and succeeded) in the rather ugly looking 7A roof problem at the very far left ~ that actually climbed really really nicely...


Shark on a ladder:

Tu: Burbizzle South. Met up with Lagers for a fun couple of hours playing around on his hustling circuit. Managed not to fall for his 'getting my chalk wet' trick that he used up at Hampers Hang last winter ~ lost quite a bit of skin on the Sheep and had a good play on the brick towards the end. Excellent stuff and good coffee from Sheffield's number 1 grit hustling barista.

We: rest.

Thu: Back to X with Shark again. This time I bought Shark a treat (a Jam Donut) hoping it would have the same effect as on greyhounds - but he refused and stoically worked his way through a box of sawdust infused protein bars from Aldi. Warmed up at Rubicon - which was as unappetising as ever - Shark seemed keen to try Kudos - so I shouted encouraging things and watched the clock... Back up to X.. Shark was making good progress on JR. I decided to FOCUS just on Cherokee Lane (rather than Zippys) and as a result felt much stronger on it.. A couple of useful push ons from Shark helped loads to get the body position sorted ~ and after a few attempts it finally went. The rather lame video below shows the go before it happened. Excellent - felt really good to have worked it through and got that little bit stronger / muscle memory thing and nailed it. 7A+ or 7B? Dunno - they always feel easier once they're done.




Shark made good progress on JR and got his sequence worked out but then powered out.

Fri: Felt really low for some reason... pottered about

Sa: Still feeling low. Sat and watched TV all day waiting for it to stop raining so I could go out. It didnt before it got dark. Still Hull won...

Su: Up early (thanks to the cat who obviously didnt know the clocks had gone back.. stupid animal... ) so headed off to Buckstones (nont Sarahs) to try Legs Akimbo and Pig in a Pokey. Bastard cold (well only 8 degrees) and a really strong wind. damp in places, took about an hour to warm up. Rubbish on the 7C I nearly got the time before - rubbish on PIAP too.. can't campus far enough (by about 2 cm..) grr... Went home. Watched Sunderland beat Newcastle and was going to wallow in sofa based TV gloom for the afternoon when Andy Popp texted he was heading out. Nipped over to Helsby and had a really good 90 min there. Felt really good, floaty, did a couple of the hardest moves there first time - just wanted to carry on going, but my skin said no.

Well thats about it.

[Grubes]

) so headed off to Buckstones (nont Sarahs) to try Legs Akimbo and Pig in a Pokey. Bastard cold (well only 8 degrees) and a really strong wind. damp in places, took about an hour to warm up. Rubbish on the 7C I nearly got the time before - rubbish on PIAP too.. can't campus far enough (by about 2 cm..)

Have you tried to just do the campus 6C
Here's a video of James doing both (not legs akimbo)

Pig in as pokey none campus beta https://twitter.com/John_thornton94/status/508526776294072322
But I imagine your too tall for that

[webbo]

Mostly a good week Nice one Sasq...

M: CragX. Met up with Shark who was in a philosophical mood and was keen to get stuck into Jericho Road. I did my best to provide him with as much tall person beta as possible to confuse him - in the meantime, I flitted from problem to problem, like an unsuccessful ladies man in a 1980's nightclub. Zippys, Cherokee lane, a little tickle on Jericho Road.. in the end I became interested (and succeeded) in the rather ugly looking 7A roof problem at the very far left ~ that actually climbed really really nicely...


Shark on a ladder:

Tu: Burbizzle South. Met up with Lagers for a fun couple of hours playing around on his hustling circuit. Managed not to fall for his 'getting my chalk wet' trick that he used up at Hampers Hang last winter ~ lost quite a bit of skin on the Sheep and had a good play on the brick towards the end. Excellent stuff and good coffee from Sheffield's number 1 grit hustling barista.

We: rest.

Thu: Back to X with Shark again. This time I bought Shark a treat (a Jam Donut) hoping it would have the same effect as on greyhounds - but he refused and stoically worked his way through a box of sawdust infused protein bars from Aldi. Warmed up at Rubicon - which was as unappetising as ever - Shark seemed keen to try Kudos - so I shouted encouraging things and watched the clock... Back up to X.. Shark was making good progress on JR. I decided to FOCUS just on Cherokee Lane (rather than Zippys) and as a result felt much stronger on it.. A couple of useful push ons from Shark helped loads to get the body position sorted ~ and after a few attempts it finally went. The rather lame video below shows the go before it happened. Excellent - felt really good to have worked it through and got that little bit stronger / muscle memory thing and nailed it. 7A+ or 7B? Dunno - they always feel easier once they're done.




Shark made good progress on JR and got his sequence worked out but then powered out.

Fri: Felt really low for some reason... pottered about

Sa: Still feeling low. Sat and watched TV all day waiting for it to stop raining so I could go out. It didnt before it got dark. Still Hull won...





Su: Up early (thanks to the cat who obviously didnt know the clocks had gone back.. stupid animal... ) so headed off to Buckstones (nont Sarahs) to try Legs Akimbo and Pig in a Pokey. Bastard cold (well only 8 degrees) and a really strong wind. damp in places, took about an hour to warm up. Rubbish on the 7C I nearly got the time before - rubbish on PIAP too.. can't campus far enough (by about 2 cm..) grr... Went home. Watched Sunderland beat Newcastle and was going to wallow in sofa based TV gloom for the afternoon when Andy Popp texted he was heading out. Nipped over to Helsby and had a really good 90 min there. Felt really good, floaty, did a couple of the hardest moves there first time - just wanted to carry on going, but my skin said no.

Well thats about it.

I didn't realise John Peel was a fan of Crag X or still alive for that matter.

[Hugh]

Bloody hell Nik (and Rodma) - doesn't sound like a fun week 

STG: 7B. More grit action.
MTG: Don't get broken.

Mon: 4x4s at TCA, then easy aerocap warm down.

Tue: Max hangs (10s), 20mm +27kg. Felt rough, getting a cold.

Wed: Hard circuit and woody at TCA. Fun session, burled (with appalling technique) up a minor woody project.

Thu: Quick swim. Feeling rough from cold still.

Fri: Back to Snuff Mills again. Not remotely psyched and unsurprisingly had a shit session. Thrashed away with beta that I knew wasn't working. On the plus side, did meet one of the early pioneers of Frome Valley climbing, now 85 and still looking sprightly!

Sat: Rest. Sulking from Fri.

Sun: Day trip to Burbage. Satisfyingly quick tick of Breakfast and then had a play on West Side Story. Absolutely lovely subtle problem, loads of fun to work. Yet another project! Really quality day, good climbing and good company, especially after the disaster that was Friday.

[nai]

Congrats, good persistence, must've been stressful being close so late in the season, there's always that fear of one terminal downpour before the next session.

I'm also impressed that if I read your posts right you did the route the first time you linked the roof? I fell from the move to the undercut pockets a decent number of times from the floor, found the roof OK though. Always interesting to hear other people's experiences of routes.

Cheers, yes I did start to panic every time rain appeared on the radar, it was still mint on Friday though.  The way it's going parts of the crag might still be dry in December.

The roof was the biggest problem for me by far, linked it quite early using the usual bicycle method but it turned out I found it difficult to repeat consistently in isolation let alone on redpoint, I got so stretched out that the toe hook would come out and that'd pretty much be that. In the end I found a much more solid method putting a toe hook in as soon as I'd got the move left then bumping RH back so that I could toe/foot jam in the slot and just lean out torqued between LH and RF.

Never really had a problem with the move to the undercuts, in fact once worked out I can only recall falling off it once when my foot popped after the heavy rain a few weeks back (I reckon I could tell you exactly how much rain has fallen and when on Buxton throughout October). I knew if I fell at that point I'd end up in space and it'd take a lot of effort to get back in contact with rock, so I always tried really hard on that link.



Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk

[rodma]

Thanks for the well wishing, although not much deserved in my direction, since it's only really been me that's sick, not my son.

Nik, sorry you've had such a rough week.

Nibs, strong work, I love doing two handed "power pulls" (that's what I call them anyway ) to finish.

Galpinos, I'm relieved to here about another adult that's actually suffered with this.

Generally, well done to all.

I feel fairly lucky, I was pretty much getting to the tweaky part of feeling really strong (strong for me obvs) just when I got ill, so couldn't be better timing, no trips planned etc.

[a dense loner]

Looks like you pissed Striker T_B 

[nik at work]

Thanks for the thoughts guys, and sorry for the self indulgent Whiney post. It just got to Sunday evening and I wanted to let off steam a bit.
Anyway the boy is doing well, not that he ever felt 'ill', but his rash is clearing. He's still covered in bruises but not spotting any new ones. I'm still doubtful that he's going to be able to come to Spain but in the grand scheme that's small beer. It would seem (without wanting to speak too soon) that the post- viral random platelet crash diagnosis is probably accurate, so longer term should be no ill effects. Thursday was horrible but was just one day, so again a small price to pay. Also the hospital staff were brilliant, as was the gp. And whilst the boy wasn't technically in an NHS hospital (non-UK country) there was consultation with medical staff in the UK and hence the NHS. It would be fair to say that I think the NHS and it's staff are the best institution in the UK and are underpaid and undervalued at all levels. They save people's lives, put a cost on that. Frankly the Conservatives would do well to leave it the fuck alone. Anyway don't want to get sidetracked. Thanks for your thoughts.

Sunday was shit though, I can't sugar coat that one.

[Muenchener]

Good news about your son Nik. Didn't come across whiney to me at all; child troubles are about the worst thing that can happen for a parent. The bullying thing is no fun either, we had that too a couple of  years back and it’s hugely difficult for a parent to know what to do. My experience was similar to yours in that teachers do seem to take it very seriously.

(In both directions; my lad was also hauled before the deputy head last year for an incident that he swore blind was self defence. As of course he would. I *think* he was *probably* telling the truth)

[tomtom]

) so headed off to Buckstones (nont Sarahs) to try Legs Akimbo and Pig in a Pokey. Bastard cold (well only 8 degrees) and a really strong wind. damp in places, took about an hour to warm up. Rubbish on the 7C I nearly got the time before - rubbish on PIAP too.. can't campus far enough (by about 2 cm..)

Have you tried to just do the campus 6C
Here's a video of James doing both (not legs akimbo)

Pig in as pokey none campus beta https://twitter.com/John_thornton94/status/508526776294072322
But I imagine your too tall for that

Hi Luke - seen the vids yes thanks - Just can't quite campus high enough. Its not my forte (campusing) ~ meh...

[ashtond6]

quiet week really

M - rest
T - Bouldering, OS V4
W - Routes - got spanked indoors as per, OS 6c
T - Rest for Sat
F - Rest for Sat
S - couldn't do the 7b I wanted to finish due to the rain. Got stupidly close to Martial Music 7a+ 3rd go, dropped it missing a foothold 1 hold from the jugs I can recover fully on!
S - bouldering at Dumby, found it very frustrating as usual. Did a f6C sit version of Home Rule & almost managed Shattered Traverse f6C / F7b+/c?. Couldn't touch a f6A 

Climbing well for me, but annoying as my 7b's in Cheedale are stupidly close (dropping last moves!) & will be wet by the time I'm back from USA in mid November

Need to focus on bouldering now as my power & finger strength is poor. Problem is... I really don't enjoy bouldering very much

[nai]

quiet week really
S - Dumby,  Couldn't touch a f6A

Toto?  If it is I wouldn't worry, super techy.

[ashtond6]

Haha! That's the one nai

Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

[36chambers]

STG: Get back into crush mode.
MTG: Jason's Roof, Ben's Groove sitter
LTG: 8B

M: Core gym ball week 8 workout and HIIT session. HIIT: 30 sec running on the spot knees to hands, 30 sec burpees, 30 sec mountain climbers, 30 sec rest. REPEAT 10 times (20 min in total). As it's now getting colder, if anyone wants to save money on central heating I recommend doing this for 10 minutes. Your house will feel like an oven for the night.
T: "climbing conditioning" circuit training at lunch. Indoors in the evening. Brief play on the 50 board, otherwise easy session.
W: Core gym ball week 8 workout.
T: Caley. First lamp session of the season. Good times.
F: Can't actually remember... possibly nothing
S: Indoors to keep the GF company. Easy session, although I still felt pretty spent.   
S: Annual trip to Stanage Plantation. Still can't touch Brad Pit. I am piss weak.

My tweaky finger feels relatively okay. Likewise for my elbows. As long as they haven't gotten worse I consider it a good week.

[tommytwotone]

STG: Get back to where I was pre-parenthood
VLTG: Font 7b


M: Crazy Depot session post work as it was clearly student night and there were a new batch of freshers in town. After having had 2 people walk under me while climbing, I popped off the top move of something and nearly landed on someone else. Decided to head home soon after.
T: 5-a-side on lunch. Scored for second week running. Very competitive game, we are always down or level and then we scored the winning goal in the last minute.
W: Nowt much.
T: Packing for trip to Scotland on Fri.
F: 5 hr drive to Edinburgh, dinner and some beers with family.
S: Daytime childcare, followed by afternoon walk up Arthur's Seat with Una in the carrier on my back. As per 36 Chambers' HIIT workout, if you're feeling chilly outdoors, I can endorse walking up a steep hill carrying a toddler as a way of warming up fast.
S: Session at Ratho that I'd been bought as a present. Mad place. Enjoyed the old skool Bendcrete bouldering, did most of the V4/5 ish stuff and then enjoyed a sauna / jacuzzi after. All walls should have a sauna and jacuzzi.
M: 8 hr (!) drive back after having to divert off the A1 due to traffic.

[SA Chris]

We hit that traffic going the other way!

[shark]

10.12 - 11.0

M. Peak. Cool 10deg. Short warm up at Rubicon then met Centurion Coulthardicus at Crag X. Good conditions Got on Jericho Road Much stronger on it than before. No tick but got a sequence. Felt I might be in with a shot next visit
T. Eve. Weighted deadhangs interspersed with assisted one armers. Matched PB on full crimp and improved PB on drags. Good session especially as bouldered day before. Useful to find that one armer work didnt seem to affect deadhang performance too.  Coached Sonia on her first dumbell complex and deadlifts
W.
T. Met Tomtom at Rubicon. Warmed up. Had a few goes at Kudos. Still nails. Went to CragX. Good conditions again. Worked the finishing moves of Jericho Road off the ladder and got a sequence. But tired when started going from start. Multiple goes but disappointed not even to get to the pinch with the thumb catch. Tom bleated on about how he was a better scientist than Einstein and eventually got Cherokee Lane. With a heel. Eve. Took boys out with lampage to Burbage. I didnt expect to do anything myself but had a brilliant session on Blind Date and lost count of the number of goes I had lurching for the slot even stabbing my forefinger into the overlap once. Our lights cut but fortunately another team there who lent us one of theirs.  Tom got Remegence which is especially hard for midgets and Ben did the Rib and also had a play on BD.
F.
S. PM Foundry. Campus board. Bit off the pace. Maybe trying 1-5 on medium rungs early on took the edge off as didn't do as well as last week. Also felt a little nauseous and stressed for no particular reason. Eve Party in Glossop
S.

Was back in work mode hustling, interviewing and report writing which was a shock to the system. Dietary control lapsing.

[tomtom]

I'd like to clarify that I did not say I was a better Scientist than Einstein - but am happy to propagate the other falsehood that my distant relations were Romans

[nai]

Yeah yeah, now about this heel.....

[tomtom]

It's in the video clip if you want to judge...