I've never really been in the situation where I've had to share a route before (except with my partner of course), so I'm intrigued to know what the standard etiquette is for sharing routes.Example in question, I wanted to try Powerplant yesterday at the cornice and there was a party on the route when I arrived. I immediately approached them and asked politely if they'd mind if I squeezed in some goes between them and said they would only be short 10-15 minute goes as I'd been on the route Tuesday, so knew it quite well. The guy belaying said he was sure we could work a system out. Well, the system turned out to be that they stayed on the route for the next 4 hours without letting me have a go. As in, I was making sure I was around each time one of them lowered off but they just avoided eye-contact and swapped straight over. They were like machines, never ate or anything. I eventually got annoyed and went over to ask about having a go about 3 hours in and they guy said he was having one more go and an hour later they eventually got off it. The one kind gesture was that they offered to swap my draws over with theirs but in all fairness, it wouldn't have taken me long to do and it was probably quicker than them stripping it.What would the UKB collective have done in this situation? I was there on Tuesday evening and someone asked if they could have a go on the route (I'd put the draws in and was resting). Of course I said yes and we just swapped leads, equally someone asked if they could try it yesterday after I eventually got on and again, I had no problem them get on it between goes.My instincts tell me that these guys were being a bit out of order. My climbing partner said that he would have said something much sooner if it had been a route he wanted to try.
Anyway, my personal etiquette:-the draws owner is the master.
But hey - there's all sorts of people out there..
I disagree, I'd tend to give someone redpointing priority as do most others it seems. Other that normal levels of decency and manners are all that are required.
southerners
Quote from: lagerstarfish on July 05, 2015, 09:55:27 pmsoutherners
The guys in question (I was at the crag) were obviously being obstructive; and this might be understandable if they were nearly doing it and on a time limit, but they were a) getting nowhere and b) there for hours