[cha1n]

Can anyone recommend some decent beastmaker alternatives which are more comfortable to hang in a drag hand position?

I find that if I drag the holds on the beastmaker that they really dig into my joints, and I usually give up on fingerboarding a few sessions after starting. I know the edges are rounded on the beastmaker but not enough for me it seems. I think I'm going to have to start fingboarding on some of my sessions as the grit is destroying my skin and I mainly want to work on open-hand strength or obviously

I don't care if it's resin, I don't see how having a resin fb is a problem as you're hanging statically on the holds. This is a right pain as I own a beastmaker 2k and have a membership at the works where they only have beastmakers!

[Seb]

Try some of the edges on the other side of the beastmaker set up by the pullup bar. Some of them might fit your fingers better.

[cha1n]

Nice one Seb, forgot there were holds around there. Will take a look.

I just spotted this core fingerboard which has roughly a thousand different holds on. Could be OK... http://www.rockrun.com/rock-climbing/fingerboards/core-fingerboard

[highrepute]

I can lend you a dremel and some wood and you can tailor your perfect edge!

[peewee]

this is probably one of the best boards I've used http://crusherholds.co.uk/fingerboards/matrix-climbing-fingerboard

[CBA]

What Peewee said. On the whole,very finger friendly.

[Clart]

I find the holds on the moon board very comfortable to drag.

[turnipturned]

[quote author=cha1n link=topic=25396.msg475878#msg475878 date=1423434449
I just spotted this core fingerboard which has roughly a thousand different holds on. Could be OK... http://www.rockrun.com/rock-climbing/fingerboards/core-fingerboard
[/quote]

Not sure I can comment on how good it is for dragging because I don't/ can't really drag holds (I have disproportionally short index and little finger). Anyway, the core fingerboard is ace, especially for half crimping. Leo's little fingerboard routine is utterly desperate and the 'project Hold' is visionary.

[abarro81]

That core board is up at the foundry. There are some beautiful, skin friendly slopey 3 finger pockets which are ace. The 2 finger pockets are rather more painful and skin-tearing, certainly much more so than the BM.

[Sasquatch]

I can lend you a dremel and some wood and you can tailor your perfect edge!

Even better, take a length of 2x4 and you can make your own perfect board

[Moo]

Sounds to me like you need to adjust your grip a little bit. I think if you concentrate more on hanging off your pads rather than hooking up on your joints it'll be better training and less painful.

[cha1n]

This could well be true Moo. I am a limestone bred climber and I never opened handed much back then.

Sandstone/grit tends to be more slopey so no problems there (and it's the rocktype I've been climbing on the most for the last few years).

When I fb for more than a few sessions I mainly get the pain on my joint that I broke the collateral ligaments on snowboarding but all my joints hurt a bit. I'm probably rushing things. Have been climbing circa five years but never fb'd for more than a handful of occasions consecutively.

I appreciate everyone's input. At the wall tomorrow night and will experiment on the fbs at the works. Perhaps take some photos and ask for some feedback on how I'm gripping.

[cha1n]

I very briefly hung on some of the holds at the works then got distracted as a new circuit has been put up.

Didn't love any of the holds behind the Beastmakers and the top (bigger) holds on the moon fingerboard seemed ok.

Wish I could force myself to do it instead of climb sometimes...

[Sasquatch]

I find it much more difficult to FB if A)I'm at the wall, and B) have time to get a good climbing session in.  Hence why I FB at home.  Saves gas and drive time, plus I can watch my little girl at home, which is a bit difficult at the wall.

[rodma]

I find it much more difficult to FB if A)I'm at the wall, and B) have time to get a good climbing session in.  Hence why I FB at home.  Saves gas and drive time, plus I can watch my little girl at home, which is a bit difficult at the wall.

This

Fingerboard at home.

Secret training is great

[cha1n]

Hard to do when you have a membership to one of the best bouldering walls in the country and live 30 seconds walk away!

[a dense loner]

Eh, I live a minutes walk away and I'm at least 30 seconds closer than you. I train in my cellar and on the 2nd rung of my stairs, I go to the wall for a warm down and a coffee. It's not hard to train if you want to train.

[Nibile]

 
+1 for secret training. When I started climbing we would never never confess that we trained. "Did nothing this week, I had to study a lot." was the usual mantra.

[tim palmer]

[quote author=cha1n link=topic=25396.msg475878#msg475878 date=1423434449
I just spotted this core fingerboard which has roughly a thousand different holds on. Could be OK... http://www.rockrun.com/rock-climbing/fingerboards/core-fingerboard

Not sure I can comment on how good it is for dragging because I don't/ can't really drag holds (I have disproportionally short index and little finger). Anyway, the core fingerboard is ace, especially for half crimping. Leo's little fingerboard routine is utterly desperate and the 'project Hold' is visionary.
[/quote]

I would second Dan's thoughts, I think the Core finger board is the best on the market (yes better than BM), lots of holds ranging from one-armer-able to utterly terrible.  The only slight draw back is the pockets are almost too poor. 
I think the mix of the resin is pretty skin friendly too.

[Nibile]

Which one is the Project Hold?

[rodma]

Hard to do when you have a membership to one of the best bouldering walls in the country and live 30 seconds walk away!

i live two minutes walk from a wall with a decent campus board, but i still prefer campusing at home.

plus (i imagine) i look less of a dick trying one-armed stuff in front of the cat, rather than in front of some poor geezer that's just managed to ladder his way to the top of the board for the first time.

+1 for secret training. When I started climbing we would never never confess that we trained. "Did nothing this week, I had to study a lot." was the usual mantra.

I've always been pretty honest about the fact i train at home (but rarely have given away specifics), but have never been that keen on people seeing me at or near my limit (especially on things i am bad at), except in competition.

A good friend of mine used to always ask me what training i was doing at home and how frequently i did so (he knew i had a campus board and weights) and i would tell him. he would tell me that he trained only once a week at the wall, no fingerboarding, no weights, no protein shakes etc, despite having a board in his garage. he claimed to do no other training basically ever. the first time i went through to use his garage, i saw the inside of his flat and he had about four diferent finger boards set up, an array of grip training stuff and about 5 different types of protein. i felt like an idiot for being even semi-open about what i did. 

[peewee]

plus (i imagine) i look less of a dick trying one-armed stuff in front of the cat, rather than in front of some poor geezer that's just managed to ladder his way to the top of the board for the first time.

Don't know i reckon cats can be pretty judgemental.

[rodma]

plus (i imagine) i look less of a dick trying one-armed stuff in front of the cat, rather than in front of some poor geezer that's just managed to ladder his way to the top of the board for the first time.

Don't know i reckon cats can be pretty judgemental.

 

Quite, she just looks on from her tower, unimpressed at the puny human

[Eddies]

I really like the idea behind this neat lil fingerboard http://www.bamclimbing.com

[Eddies]