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I need to start training (Read 19417 times)

duncan

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#50 Re: I need to start training
January 22, 2015, 09:41:59 am

A little bit, but not really.  If you want more climbing specific, then check out some of Nib's videos for his climbing specific core work. 

What they are is targeted towards strength. 

I also forgot to mention how many exercises I'd do in a workout.  If/when I do targeted strength training (which I'll start a 4-week cycle in about 2 weeks), I'll do something like:

WU
Climbing WO
Strength WO:
3x3 Deadlift or GHD - Main goal is posterior Chain from Knee to mid back
3x4 Wtd Dips or Dumbell Flys - main goal is pecs and triceps for deep lockoffs and compression
3x5 One Leg Wtd Squats (full range of motion) or 3x5 Max height Box Jumps - Goals are explosive power in the legs and stability while pressing from a rockover position.
3x5 Dragon Flags or Ring Bird Dogs(hold for 2-5 seconds) - Abdominal and low back strength and core stability
3x8 Kneeling 1/2 Moons or Russian Twists - Obliques and Abdominals
3x12 Shoulder strengthening - researching this now to determine where I want to take this....

This seems a good mix if you're aiming to increase basic trunk and leg muscle strength in a manner somewhat applicable to climbing. Low reps and high loads so appropriate for bouldering. As 'basic' abdominal exercises go, Dragon flags look fairly specific to climbing; mind your neck and upper back. Perhaps the Russian twists could be replaced by something like hanging leg raises? Not convinced of the utility of deadlifting!

What are the aims of shoulder strengthening? Improving strength transferable to climbing or injury prevention or something else?

Sasquatch

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#51 Re: I need to start training
January 22, 2015, 03:54:35 pm
This seems a good mix if you're aiming to increase basic trunk and leg muscle strength in a manner somewhat applicable to climbing. Low reps and high loads so appropriate for bouldering. As 'basic' abdominal exercises go, Dragon flags look fairly specific to climbing; mind your neck and upper back. Perhaps the Russian twists could be replaced by something like hanging leg raises? Not convinced of the utility of deadlifting!

What are the aims of shoulder strengthening? Improving strength transferable to climbing or injury prevention or something else?
The goal of the russian twists or half moons are aiming at targeted the obliques.  I think these tend to get overlooked and, unless you're really lanky, are key to locking off deeply. As such i wouldn't skip them. 

The shoulders are a work in progress for myself, so i'm not totally sure.  I think i'll be doing a combination of strength and stability work.  Probably a couple of iron cross type movements on the rings, and then something along the lines of I's, Y's, T's. 

Keep in mind, I tend to do these workouts in conjunction with either FB or campus cycles where my fingers/arms/pull muscles are getting strengthened, but no overall body work. 

the_dom

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#52 Re: I need to start training
January 23, 2015, 06:53:25 am
I'll second the recommendations for deadlifts and Turkish get-ups - they really are excellent general strength exercises that transfer well to climbing. That said, I would add dumbbell snatches, kettlebell swings and squat or tuck jumps to a climbing-focused weights session for a little more dynamic movement.

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#53 Re: I need to start training
January 26, 2015, 05:10:18 am
My limited understanding is that there's not really a correct technique bar which knee you 'lead' with, which is on the same side as the arm you are raising.

mrjonathanr

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#54 Re: I need to start training
January 26, 2015, 07:21:43 am
It would be quite tricky leading with the other one.

I just stand up and lie down again maintaining the arm vertical.  Using a weight you find heavy sorts out the rest.

hamsforlegs

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#55 Re: I need to start training
January 26, 2015, 08:53:15 am
is it just a loosely defined lying to standing transition thing, that you have done correctly as long as you kept your arm raised with the weight throughout?  Or is there strict form...

Loosely defined is right I think, but mrjonathanr has a good point that everyone ends up with the same pattern/technique once the weight gets heavy.

A couple of prominent therapist/coach types developed a more prescriptive 'kalos sthenos' variation which trains specific motor patterns, and this now seems to be a reference point.

Personally I think it's work learning the kalos version - I've found it shows up developing imbalances, tweaks and weaknesses in shoulders/hips etc, and gives a simple way to focus on and correct the same.

If you just want to develop sheer horsepower and grit, try long sets of getups with a massive sandbag over shoulders/chest. Not so applicable to climbing though...

 

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