[Kemics]

This is my first time...be gentle with me 

So it seems most training plans do two separate phases for strength and endurance. Is it possible to do both at the same time? Or do you see better gains if you focus on them purely. I was reading the Ukb science list of articles, specifically one my McClure about feet on campusing for power endurance. Is it worth tagging this on as an exercise to a bouldering session. Or should I reserve it for a strictly power endurance session so not to interfere with strength recruitment?

Also: For finger strength, do repeaters develop strength or PE? Going by specificity would you not want max hang and then a long rest instead of short rest periods for strength?

Basically ive plateaued pretty hard so decided to try some more structured training. However, the more books and articles I read the more confused I get!

would really appreciate some advice

Thanks! 

 

[Sasquatch]

So it seems most training plans do two separate phases for strength and endurance. Is it possible to do both at the same time? Or do you see better gains if you focus on them purely. I was reading the Ukb science list of articles, specifically one my McClure about feet on campusing for power endurance. Is it worth tagging this on as an exercise to a bouldering session. Or should I reserve it for a strictly power endurance session so not to interfere with strength recruitment?

Read this linked document: 

I finally got around to uploading a document I wrote on this stuff:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-40C59n2E_4aVRyYjY5U1Rtc2c/edit?usp=sharing should take you to a downloadable pdf. Hope some people find it interesting/useful!

Then read it 2-3 more times to fully get it.     It should help quite a bit.

Also: For finger strength, do repeaters develop strength or PE? Going by specificity would you not want max hang and then a long rest instead of short rest periods for strength?

Depends on the type of strength you need, and how your body responds to the stimuli.  Some people resond well to repeaters and develop lots of strength.  Some respond well to Max Hangs and develop lots of strength. Some people just get hurt

Have you checked out the Training Wiki?

[abarro81]

Like Sasquatch says, gotta see what works for you with much of this stuff. I recently tried a variation of repeaters doing 5s hang 10s rest 5 times , then 5 min rest. So much more maximal than normal repeaters but more volume than max hangs. For me it felt lime the best fingerboard workout I've tried.

Your question doesn't quite fit your title - I.e. title talks about phases but text about sessions. I generally don't mix bouldering and aero pow (what Ste macs foot on campus is likely to be) in a session but am happy to tag an cap or an pow in the end of bouldering.

Phase wise what I do is explain in the doc linked above. I now don't do any maintenance of aero pow and an pow in my base phase though, which I think I did do whe n I wrote that? I may also try doing a base  phase with no aero cap for a while this winter (i.e. strength and an cap only) as it probably does tire me out and thus inhibit strength gains a bit to do them at the same time..

[Sasquatch]

Like Sasquatch says, gotta see what works for you with much of this stuff. I recently tried a variation of repeaters doing 5s hang 10s rest 5 times , then 5 min rest. So much more maximal than normal repeaters but more volume than max hangs. For me it felt lime the best fingerboard workout I've tried.

I like this idea.  I don't like repeaters as they always feel tweaky to me, but 10sec rest could be perfect. 

[petejh]

The guys who wrote the Rock Climbers Training Manual have some pretty clear views on what they think works best (fairly strict periodisation) - check out http://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/training-for-rock-climbing/  for yet more knowledge to add to your confusion. But my 2 groats is I think following any structured plan will give you better gains than not having a plan and being haphazard about training. You can always fine tune and adjust your routine as you see the results of different plans, but I think unless you're at the cutting edge of the sport just putting in hard work at training will be more important than getting exactly the right routine.

I may also try doing a base  phase with no aero cap for a while this winter (i.e. strength and an cap only) as it probably does tire me out and thus inhibit strength gains a bit to do them at the same time..

Training for Hubble?

[Kemics]

Brilliant. Thank you for the responses.

I shall do some more reading. I think i'm worried about not finding the exact perfect training model, but in reality it's going to require less reading and more trial and error.

[a dense loner]

There is no perfect training model, just frustration and something that works better or worse for someone else.

[Kemics]

Sasquatch thanks for that link, that's a brilliant resource. Very concise which is useful! I had no idea about the different energy systems. I thought it was just strength and endurance!

Two more noob questions:

Does anyone do any antagonist shoulder exercises?

What do people do to benchmark their finger strength progress? Is it worth doing a max hang on various girls at the end of each week to have a variable to measure?

[petejh]

What do people do to benchmark their finger strength progress? Is it worth doing a max hang on various girls at the end of each week to have a variable to measure?

Worked for Jerry:

[Kemics]

What do people do to benchmark their finger strength progress? Is it worth doing a max hang on various girls at the end of each week to have a variable to measure?

That should read various "grips" :/

[Vulew]

As for fingerboard part, this might help
http://www.onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/search/label/fingerboarding

[Sasquatch]

Does anyone do any antagonist shoulder exercises?

What do people do to benchmark their finger strength progress? Is it worth doing a max hang on various girls at the end of each week to have a variable to measure?

Yes. But only when I've included them in a training cycle.

I do 4 week cycles of max hangs, so it's fairly easy to benchmark, as I just look at each workout.  By tracking each workout in a consistent planned manner, i can easily tell when i've plateaued and when to change if needed. 

[2 Tru]

Like Sasquatch says, gotta see what works for you with much of this stuff. I recently tried a variation of repeaters doing 5s hang 10s rest 5 times , then 5 min rest. So much more maximal than normal repeaters but more volume than max hangs. For me it felt lime the best fingerboard workout I've tried.

Cheers for this Alex, I've often fount it difficult to complete fingerboard sessions using the standard 7 to 3 second repeater cycle but after following your recommend hang and rest times I have noticed a big improvement and actually stuck with a period of finger board training for the first time ever so thanks a lot for your advice.

What would you suggest for increasing the difficulty now that I can complete all the hangs.
1)More sets
2) reduced rest times/ increased hang times
3)smaller holds
4)added weight.

Thanks again.

[Sasquatch]

Cheers for this Alex, I've often fount it difficult to complete fingerboard sessions using the standard 7 to 3 second repeater cycle but after following your recommend hang and rest times I have noticed a big improvement and actually stuck with a period of finger board training for the first time ever so thanks a lot for your advice.

What would you suggest for increasing the difficulty now that I can complete all the hangs.
1)More sets
2) reduced rest times/ increased hang times
3)smaller holds
4)added weight.

Thanks again.

My .02, although you may not be looking for it, would be to generally start with #4 until you can move to 3 while still completing sets.

[2 Tru]

Cheers mate, all advice much appreciated, I will give it a go. 

[abarro81]

+1 to Sasquatch's answer.  Thank Ben Davison, I stole it from him!