I'd be really interested to watch someone climb an 8b with crap technique, which problem was it?
In answer to the topic. Because it's easy explain how to train strength and it's easy to see and measure the gains. It's hard to correctly explain technique training and it's hard to measure technique gains.....
Watch the three climbers on Bugeleisen (I think this might have prompted Dave's question) or different people in unclesomebody's Font. videos. Crap may be putting it a little strongly but clearly some are moving more efficiently than others
Quote from: duncan on April 11, 2014, 08:51:48 amWatch the three climbers on Bugeleisen (I think this might have prompted Dave's question) or different people in unclesomebody's Font. videos. Crap may be putting it a little strongly but clearly some are moving more efficiently than othersSo how would you rank them in terms of movement then? I see different styles that suit the different climbers.
The internal feedback about body position, breathing, accuracy, momentum, speed of movement etc requires a higher level of awareness than most folk start the sport with, and it takes considerable deliberate practice to develop and exploit it.At least that how it appears to me..
You don't need technique if your strong enough. If you can't keep your feet on anything you just learn to pull harder to compensate. I've two friends who both boulder 8B one has exceptional technique the other has crap technique but is a beast and I'm pretty sure the one with no technique will eventually climb the hardest.
I assume the beast will struggle on 7b slabs?
Quote from: thekettle on April 10, 2014, 09:27:42 pmThe internal feedback about body position, breathing, accuracy, momentum, speed of movement etc requires a higher level of awareness than most folk start the sport with, and it takes considerable deliberate practice to develop and exploit it.At least that how it appears to me.. What about more experience climbers John do you think that it's possible for elite level climbers to improve their technique?
Part of the problem is that it's so hard to pin down what is good technique.
Strength training get you the girls on the beach.
I'm utterly unconvinced by shit like 'quiet feet', since it seems to me like it teaches you to place your feet overly slowly, thus teaching you to climb craply..