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UKB Power Club Week 213 Mon March 10th - Sun March 16th (Read 11211 times)

JackAus

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Stg: Fingers, V7, DWS.
Ltg: V11 in a session.

M: Rest day. Light stretching before working late.
T: Got my bike licence early, then work late.
W: Went to new area to put up some new stuff but started raining as I unloaded pads... Went to Lot 33 instead and started doing all the "easier" unrecorded stuff in prep for a new guidebook. Also put up 2 new easy lines. Work late.
T: Work early. Drove over to Canberra in the evening.
F: Hot. Bouldering at Red Rocks on the western side of Canberra. 40min approach in 30degree heat. Sun burnt. New rock type for me: Rhyolite. Very smooth (river polished) and no small holds (suits me!). Did a few easy things and a V6 on the 4th attempt. Pleased with that... Drove home late, got caught by cops speeding. Dammit.
S: Sleep in... Work late.
S: New sandstone crag in the highlands. Warmed up on a V3, then worked a V5. Got all the moves but stopped trying shortly after as it took ALOT of skin... Did a bunch of stuff in the V1-4 range aswell as worked some moves on a hard V8. Very cool line up some pinchy tufas, unusual for sandstone... Bleeding through fingertips and watched CWP put up 2 new V11s. Beast even if he is jet lagged. Great day.

Me spotting a mate on the Tufa Line V8.

csl

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Goals for March

Climb 3x a week 5/3
1x session a week on a rope. 1/1
2x outside 0/2
7b/E4/7A+

Stay under 75kg. - at around 74 at the moment.

Goals for Winter

V8/7B indoors/ Get stronger on Boulders
Book a sport trip. Done.

Mon- Strength and AnCap
Some tries on hard problems
12 moves x 8 w/ 2 mins rest.
Tue- Westway - 6a, 6a, 6b+, 6b+, 7a fail, 7a+ fail, 7a+ fail, 6c, 7b fail, 6a+, 5+ up and down, 6a, 6b fail. 14 routes. Some ok goes on harder ones. Felt fairly boxed after a few steep routes.
Wed-
Thu- Biscuit - Lots of goes on hard problems.
Fri-
Sat- Mile End - Boulder up to V6. Tried f7c in monkey house, done through roof.
Sun- Biscuit Factory. Lots of bouldering up to V7. Close on a V8. Painful not to be outside on a day like this!

fried

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Monday - Tuesday - Nothing. Elbow tendon hurts, so chill out.
Wednesday - Easy indoor session. No good, elbow hurts after about 30 mins. Sack it off.
Thursday - Saturday - Do as much theraband stuff as possible to get a session in at the weekend. Oh, and my knee's playing up as well.

Sunday - Rocher aux Sabots to do the yellow circuit as an active rest, keep moving session. Ache a bit at the start, but start to flow atfer I've warmed up a bit. Lovely circuit with a bit of height in place, climbed on jugs. Think I did most of the problems, except a couple of mantels that looked like they were going to hurt. Feeling O.K at the end, so moved onto some blues and repeated a few problems and did a couple I've never done before. Another fantastic day out in the sun. Lot's of friendly people. I'll probably pay for it tomorrow, but what the hell..

mindfull

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Rene van der Gijp: waar gaat dit over? :hug:

 Got like lots of food and drinks for this week ... not good. But still I'm progressing from a nobody to somebody for the 8th grade route climbing. That's so much fun!  :great: Do'nt know anymore. All these people taking themselves so serious, while I'm just lauging, and laughing, and ... laughing more.  :-\ :smartass: :w00t:

Edit:

And it hurts ....  :no:
« Last Edit: March 16, 2014, 06:37:37 pm by mindfull »

tomtom

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No climbing but good scenery :)


kelvin

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Mon - Boulder room warm up. Big campus rail with feet on, hands moving. 3 sets of 2min/1.5min/1min/1min with same rests. Totally beasted by this.
Tue - Rest. DOMS so bad in the evening I actually had ibruprofen!
Wed - Boulder room but just not trusting my feet, worried tweaked ankle might let go. Crap session.
Thu - Stanage Popular. Bad head after that groundfall it would seem. Onsighted a HS and a VS (5a), 2nded a lot of HVS with falls due to being distracted. Loved Missisippi. Flying Buttress Direct was just too strong for me. FAIL.
Fri - Millstone. Onsighted a VS but head was in pieces. 2nded some stuff, took a leader fall. Good trip.
Sat & Sun - Working. DOMS from trying hard on grit.

Anyone any advice as regards sorting my head after hitting the ground the other week? Weirdly wasn't bothered by belaying (the cause) but head was full of all manner of worries - gear unstitching, rockfall, shoes coming unglued (!). I climbed like crap, too focused on hands and scared to use my feet in case I tweaked the ankle again.

Can't jam, so headed to Millstone and onsighted Embankment 2. Seconded The Mall clean, then Embankment 3 with falls low down and loved the top as it was face climbing! It was great to know what to do again  :) but came away able to use my fingers, wrist and fist to jam but hand jams... WTF. Still bemused. Had a go at leading Embankment 1 before heading home but I was utterly boxed by then and had an absolute mare.

Strange week. Climbed like shit but feel like I learnt so much and put in far more effort than is usual.

shark

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11.5-7

M.
T. First trip up to Malham. Went with Steve Mac. Beautiful day but too warm for hard climbing till the shade came round. Ignored the finger shredding start. Felt strong on the moves and did two good links. Tips still got wrecked and generally felt knackered but overall a very promising performance.
W.  Eve. Fingerboard. Struggled to do the warm up and tips still sore. Tried to hang 2 finger pocketts but needed assistance (step ladder)Did full set of Intermittent hangs on 16mm edge so need to go down to 14mm edge next time. 15 pull ups on bar to finish.
T.
F.  Malham. Went with Nick D. What a contrast to tuesday! Freezing fog made worse by a bit of wind. Got a bit less harsh later on. Started from ground this time and reworked bottom section and did goes from the ground. Progressively got higher with best go being set up for throw for horn but only had 3 fingers in undercut (I need all 4, psychologically at least). At end linked horn to top. Did loads more than Tuesday but didnt feel nearly as tired. Good session but at one stage took a walk up round the top of the cove and back down to get warm and then did my best go. Fish and chips when I got back. :-[
S. Meant to do a fingerboard session but felt tired from friday and various home chores during the day. Beers at the Rising Sun in the evening with mark.
S. Drove to Leeds with poppy and got blown around on the sidelines of a hockey tournament. Couldn't face going out on Grit when I got back so read the papers then did a fingerboard session instead finishing with  intermittent hangs.

Great to have the Oak dry. Back on Tuesday and Friday. Mucky underfloor insulation work to look forward to tomorrow.

Muenchener

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STG (Easter): 6c+ redpoint. There are seven on which I've done all the moves; hopefully just need to get on one of them again.
         Turkish Get-Up w/20kg kettlebell.  :strongbench:
MTG (Summer 2014) 7a redpoint.
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M:   A Gentle Sunday Hillwalk, Day Two. Took another three hours after the bivvy to find my way down off the mountain, rather confirming the wisdom of not having tried it in the dark. Finally made it home at midday. Fortunately my boss's hobby is landscape photography in the Karwendel, so the concept of getting lost up a mountain isn't completely foreign to him.
T: Bugger. I have a bruised big toenail from my weekend epic and can't get into even my "comfy" multipitch rock shoes. Had to can planned PE circuit session at the wall.
W: Knee Physio exercises as warm up for Turkish Get-Ups with 20kg kettlebell. Progressions culminating in SUCCESS: 2 x 1 full get-ups both sides, up & down (more or less) in control. yyfy. Finished off with some sets of core.
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. Bruised toe recovered sufficiently to tolerate the comfy multipitch shoes for 20 moves or so; start of spring PE campaign. Warmed up with a couple of easy circuits and four sets of asymmetric mono hangs, then did 4 laps on PE circuits and a round of boulder 4x4s (Note To Self: breathe!) Then wanted to do two sets of feet-on campusing 3 x 45 seconds on, 30 seconds off, but the first set turned out to be Game Over.
F:
S: Wall, Thalkirchen. 20 minutes ARC warm up, 5 sets asymmetric mono hangs on beastmaker, 3 rounds of 4x4 boulders. Should hopefully be achieving something, the last couple of sets were pretty a muerte.
S: My knee hurts. Number of times I've done my physio exercises this week: one. Correlation doesn't always imply causation, but sometimes it does. Every single day doesn't seem to be necessary, but three to five times a week does. So ... Knee physio & mobility 20 minutes, kettlebell TGU progressions leading up to 2 x 1 full reps both sides (again), 3 x 25 swings.

IS2

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Mon: Usual 300 m steep aerocap session.

Tues: Rested gentle jog.

Wed: Hard circuits day 6 x 30 moves on very steep, no rests and 5 min rests.  10 x 2 min foot on campus.

Thurs: Back to running circuits by the river 3 1 mile laps with 450 steps ascended... did not pass out but had to walk last 30 steps on each lap.... no Rocky moment.

Fri: Hard circuits again same routine but added hard five move traverse into and out of circuit.

Sat: Rested dog walking .. wrecked from the circuits this week.

Sun: Went climbing outside.. drove to Peak ..windy and cold so had nice easy day doing routes in grotty quarry. Idiots award for driving through Yorkshire to go to Peak.


duncan

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STG - Don’t get injured; 2 sessions a week with a rope on, emphasis on endurance.
MTG - LH&F BHAG in Yosemite this June (E5 OS this summer).
LTG - LH&F BHAGs in Dolomites, Alps etc. summer 2015 and beyond.

M - Westway - AeroCap: 27 routes to 6b / 340m height gain
T -
W -
T - Biscuit  - 50 V0-V3 in 50 mins.
F -
S - Short run; shoulder stability stuff
S - Shoulder stability stuff

Extremely busy week with work and offspring developed chickenpox (250 spots and counting) so not much energy left over for training. Cancelled a trip on Sunday to provide moral support at home despite glorious forecast. Sorry csl.

Muenchener

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Ideally I need a few big backcountry days with lots of ascent to get my weight down ... I have put on 2-3 kg this winter which I would like to shed before the climbing season resumes.

Seems to work. I've been hovering around 82-83 for most of the winter, which is definitely too much. Three days (and one night) big hillwalking and four days snowboarding later and I'm at just over 80. Still a few kg to go, but promising.

duncan

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Anyone any advice as regards sorting my head after hitting the ground the other week? Weirdly wasn't bothered by belaying (the cause) but head was full of all manner of worries - gear unstitching, rockfall, shoes coming unglued (!). I climbed like crap, too focused on hands and scared to use my feet in case I tweaked the ankle again.

...

Strange week. Climbed like shit but feel like I learnt so much and put in far more effort than is usual.

Regarding worry after a ground fall. I think the best thing to do is accept that this is a completely normal and understandable response. Climbing 'like shit' it pretty understandable under the circumstances too; that's a great collection of rational and irrational fears! It sounds like you are doing all the right things: leading on gear, pushing yourself a bit, failing on stuff, falling off. I think you will be fine but expect to take a few sessions to regain your confidence.

T_B

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84.3Kg

M -
T - Stanage Plantation en famille. Did a bit of a circuit in the scorching heat, then tried Brad Pit. Got sidepull and bumping foot for the first time ever, but tweaked my wrist so sensibly walked away.
W - Wrist seemed OK by the evening. 40 mins fingerboard sess (first in two weeks). Really pushed elbows with pull ups and some front levers. Repeaters 6 x 7 front 3 (but not back 3 as careful with wrist), then 2 x 6 x 7 on 15mm edge with 4 mins rest. 30 press ups (first since elbows got really bad) and 3 x 60 leg raises.
T -
F - Walked up to Stanage End en famille and the weather went from warm and breezy to freezing cold and blowing a hoolie! Epic descent with Rach carrying smallest child barely able to stand up. 10 mins on fingerboard ‘priming’ for tomorrow.
S - CWIF. A.M. Session. Warmed up at home and got there just before 9am. Rach sorted child care and arrived just after. Slow start and got a bit worried about time as had only done about 6 problems in the first hour and a half. Then cranked it up a bit.  Did 10 or so before first fall. Then got to 180 (around my previous best), then got over 200 and starting getting a bit stressed/excited. Realised there were two ‘easyish’ ones I’d missed so eventually just ran out of time not really being able to try one problem (having dismissed 3 as too hard, got one bonus and found one too bunched for me to start). Finished on 231 points – well chuffed.  I didn’t make any mistakes, fluked/lanked a couple and got my tactics spot on (watching the odd Slovenian wad was helpful ;-)).  Great event – it always amazes me how brilliant the problem setting is.
S – Chilled out day, took kids to Works just before finals to get a beer and to soak up some atmos.

Didn’t end up doing much this week outside in the end, but had lots of rest which probably ended up contributing to me doing well (for me) in the CWIF. Elbows feel fine post Saturday, so keen to try and step up the bouldering.
« Last Edit: March 17, 2014, 09:15:10 am by T_B »

Luke Owens

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A rest week for me this week. After feeling wiped out towards the end of last week I felt some rest was needed, hopefully it will do my climbing some good this coming week!

Monday: Rest

Tuesday: Night session at Pantymwyn
Fell off the last "hard" move on Firestarter (7A) 3 times, powering out! Really close now, everyone finds this move easy as it's past the crux but I've never found a good way of doing it. Going back this Tuesday to finish it off!

Wednesday: Rest

Thursday: Got out in the mountains in the amazing weather.
Did Roadside Arete (6C) and Cross Section (6B) at the Cromlech boulders.

Headed over to the Pac Man Boulders and did the classic Pac Man Arete (6C) and Karma Sutra (6C) in the evening light. Both some good anti-style ticks for me. Not a crimp in sight! Brilliant spot and great problems.

Friday: Rest/Family Holiday

Saturday: Rest/Family Holiday

Sunday: Rest/Family Holiday

kelvin

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Regarding worry after a ground fall. I think the best thing to do is accept that this is a completely normal and understandable response.

The reply is appreciated- cheers Duncan. Normal response for me is to 'man up' and indeed, after hitting the deck, I got straight back on the route and did it, despite having to take a couple of sits due to ankle pain. I'm not by nature a worrier, so the whole having a crisis whilst climbing felt really un-natural.
Proof I'm human and not an alien from outer space I guess...

Evil

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STG - Power up for boulder trip end of March

M - 16 miles cycle commute total. Evening 10 minute fingerboard thing plus elbow exercises.
T - 16 miles cycle commute total. Evening routes - 6a (new), 6a+, top rope 7b in 3 sections, top rope 7b clean in one (this was an awesome route, really cool moves. Will have to try and lead it, 6a+, 6b+ (new really technical sketchy one made a total mess of this. Need to work on this style), 6a+ (new).
W - 11 miles cycle commute total as went to a different site. Finished work early, so got a quick hour at the wall. Warmed up on the outside boulders (spring is here!), then did a V4-6 problem (maybe V5?) that I'd been trying at the weekend, so was quite pleased.
T - 28 miles cycling to work and out in the evening. No time for anything else.
F - 16 miles cycle commute total.
S - Peak bouldering day trip. Was super windy, but had a fun day just trying to get a bit of outdoor boulder practice for trip next week.
S - Walked the dog - 6 miles. Tired. Went to the wall later - Tried some problems in a bit I don't often climb in. Best effort V4 flash, but also didn't manage a V3. The setting style on that bit seemed very weird. Did the first half of a problem on the steep board, and then did some training. Bit tired from yesterday's day trip, but felt pretty motivated (unsurprisingly).

cheque

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STG- normal middle fingers
2014 goals- 20 19 E-points, 10 sport 7s, 10 boulder 7s

M- Rest

T- Weighted pullups. New 1 rep max is +29kg

W- Swimming. 50 lengths in 55 minutes- felt way easier than doing the same last week.

T- Rest.

F- A bit of a walk through the city.

S- Froggatt. Woke up feeling pretty crap, which wasn't helped by dressing for a warm spring day and freezing all day in a gale. Was in a three with southern-dwelling partners who had one day in the Peak and wanted to do routes I'd done before so just took some pictures and soloed. Didn't really get warmed-up at all.

S- Lawrencefield. Crazily busy but unsurprising considering the weather. Still felt crap so went on a VS-fest ticking loads of routes neither myself or my partner had done before (I'd barely done anything here or at Millstone). Good leading practice I suppose as I didn't trust my gear at all early on and was very slow at placing it- first trad day in nearly a year that I've done more with a rope than without.

Reversion to trad bumbliedom almost complete! It's amazing how much a not-realy-too-bad-really headcold can affect your climbing- E-graded trad routes felt like a ridiculous idea this weekend and I was grateful for the huge ledges on Great Harry! Hopefully getting out and doing stuff will have a positive long-term effect though.   
« Last Edit: March 17, 2014, 01:26:45 pm by cheque »

SA Chris

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M - Hour lunchtime yoga - hard work
T - bike ride, half hour, walk on seacliffs to check something out, core work on monkeybars on way home.
W - Lantern session at new spot. 20 mins "platforming" rockpool, and 5 new problems ticked before tide came in. Great rock, ace probs, chuffed.
T or F - Can't remember which, did a bit of cardio and some weights on one and the other.
S - out bouldering, spent approx an hour failing dramatically on a single move. Second session on it, think I need to regroup and come back stronger. Frustrating.
S - Swimming with kids in morning, bouldered on local cliff in afternoon, just stamina traverses. Went legging it down to beach when full moon came up, knackering. Missed it.

First time I've managed to get on rock 3 times in a week in God knows how long!

Duncan Disorderly

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Goal - not be totally shit in Font this Easter...

M - W: Nowt cept a bit of pilates and some yoga to stretch out me back..
T: Back felt loads better - 52K bike ride with 1005m of ascent.. Great!
F: Boulder @ The works - Was tentative due to recent back issue but it was ok, still had to downclimb and be careful. Got on new wasps, flashed lots (more to do with being scared of falling off!).
S: Nowt
S: Boulder @ Burbage - Windy! Did the usual circuit to test how me back is - not too bad at all!

Not a bad week considering... Took 3 days off doing anything which seems to have really helped my back, just gotta be careful not to stress it tooo much.

This week: Get back on with it.. At least 2 climbing sessions some fingerboarding and a bit of time on the bike....
 
:D

JohnM

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Can I come back to power club!?

STG: Climb Fisheye at Oliana
MTG: Indian Summer (Kilnsey) and some hard mountain trad.
LTG: Big walls + hardish multipitch sport and trad.

Monday: Rest
Tuesday: 2 x 7c+ circuits into replica Fisheye crux.  Completed the circuits without too much pump but felt faded and not enough power to do the crux.  5 sets of holding crux move static for about 5 secs before taking the hold, and 5 sets of climbing crux boulder problem on the minute.
Wednesday: Rest
Thursday: Rest + fly to Barcelona
Friday: Oliana.  Warm up on a 7a.  Climb to the top of Fisheye.  Piss the crux on a link so pleased the specific training has paid off.  Have a redpoint attempt and get through the crux move but then fall off a bit higher pumped!  Fail to link to the very top after a short rest as I arrived at the final rest too pumped.
Saturday: 7.30 am start at Oliana.  The rock is cool the sun quickly becomes very hot.  Leave at 10 am.  Return at 3 pm, warm up on a 7a+ and then by flashing the 7c start to Humildes Pa Casa/Mind Control etc.  Redpoint on Fish Eye and a new high point falling with my hand nearly on the rail that signifies the end of the steep climbing!  Finish the day by onsighting a fun 7c+.
Sunday: Training afternoon at Figols.  6c,7a+,7b,7b+,7c+,7b+ flash/onsight before leaving for the airport.

The trip went well but annoyed not to link from the ground to the rail (8b/8b+) or from the crux to the top (8a/8a+).  Back to hard training for another month now!



Luke Owens

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Can I come back to power club!?

STG: Climb Fisheye at Oliana
MTG: Indian Summer (Kilnsey) and some hard mountain trad.
LTG: Big walls + hardish multipitch sport and trad.

Monday: Rest
Tuesday: 2 x 7c+ circuits into replica Fisheye crux.  Completed the circuits without too much pump but felt faded and not enough power to do the crux.  5 sets of holding crux move static for about 5 secs before taking the hold, and 5 sets of climbing crux boulder problem on the minute.
Wednesday: Rest
Thursday: Rest + fly to Barcelona
Friday: Oliana.  Warm up on a 7a.  Climb to the top of Fisheye.  Piss the crux on a link so pleased the specific training has paid off.  Have a redpoint attempt and get through the crux move but then fall off a bit higher pumped!  Fail to link to the very top after a short rest as I arrived at the final rest too pumped.
Saturday: 7.30 am start at Oliana.  The rock is cool the sun quickly becomes very hot.  Leave at 10 am.  Return at 3 pm, warm up on a 7a+ and then by flashing the 7c start to Humildes Pa Casa/Mind Control etc.  Redpoint on Fish Eye and a new high point falling with my hand nearly on the rail that signifies the end of the steep climbing!  Finish the day by onsighting a fun 7c+.
Sunday: Training afternoon at Figols.  6c,7a+,7b,7b+,7c+,7b+ flash/onsight before leaving for the airport.

The trip went well but annoyed not to link from the ground to the rail (8b/8b+) or from the crux to the top (8a/8a+).  Back to hard training for another month now!

Welcome back John, good to hear about you and Ally making progress on Fisheye!

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Two weeks on the road climbing :)

First stop was the Red!  I'd never been so I was pretty excited.

F - Fly from Anchorage to Lexington, and drive to Cabin at the red
S - Day 1 at the red.  Late start due to late night getting in the day before.  Headed to Muir valley.  Warmed up on a couple of 10's, then OS a 11a, 11c, and 12b, and a second run on the 12b because my partner couldn't clean it.  Headed over to cell block 6 and fell off the last hard move on the OS, then called it a day. :(
S - Forecast was for cold and rain turning to snow, so we managed to get in 2 11's at the Zoo before bolting south to Chattanooga to escape the cold/snow.
M- Bouldered at little rock city as it was too cold for routes.  Did a massive load of volume-28 problems up to 7B+. 
T- Bouldered at Stone Fort as still too cold for routes.  Did a massive load of volume-26 problems up to 7B, and really close on a 7C+.  Completely worked in every way by the end of the day.
W- Rest day and headed back to the Red. Got in around midnight.
Th- Late start again, and headed to Military Wall. Warmed up on a couple of 9's, then did a beta run on The Legend.  Fell off the bouldery start on 2nd time up.  Sent it 3rd go.  Then Flashed Fuzzy Undercling 11b, and OS'd Tissue Tiger 12b.  Tissue Tiger felt quite hard for the grade.
F- Private Crag - Warmed up on 10 and 11b-ish, then OS a 12a and an insanely hard 12c, then OS'd another 11+(which felt harder than the 12a), and cooled down on another 10c/d.
S-Last climbing Day at the Red and headed to the Brightside/Darkside and Solar Collector.  Warmed up on an 11a, and an 11c at brightside, then headed over to try Elephant man. Worked out beta first go, then 2nd go did in overlapping 1/2's. 3rd go fell just before the good holds.  Too wasted to keep trying.  Head back and did another 11c at Brightside, then OS'd a 12b, and 2 11d's at Solar Collector.   
S- Rest day and fly to El Paso to head to Hueco.

By the time I left, I felt like I had a much better idea of how to climb at the red and read routes, but the weather, two big days of bouldering, and lack of rest days really took alot of energy.  While I didn't meet my main goal of OS'ing a 13a, I felt pretty good overall and am fairly confident with better weather/rest/schedule/knowledge I could do so.  In total we climbed at 9 different crags and did 26 routes in the red in 5 days, plus 54 boulder problems in two days around Chattanooga.   

The day before flying into Hueco, I got a message from my partner that he had missed his flight and couldn't make it down.  I spent a good chuck of time trying to figure out alternatives, and finally managed to get a ride arranged to the Hueco Hacienda, and I would figure out the rest of the details from there. 

M- after a really bad nights sleep, I got up early to make sure I could catch/bum a ride into the park.  I shouldn't have worried too much as nobody got going particularly fast.  It seemed like 9:30 was when people headed that way.  I caught a ride in with a french-canadian couple from Montreal and their 2-year old son. Overall I felt really tired.  Even with a rest day, I could really feel the lack of sleep and accumulated fatigue from the last week. I did a bunch of moderate classics, tired a 7C+(close, but just too tired and lacked grrr) and did a really good highball 7B called Roughage.
T- After a good nights sleep, I was far more motivated, and ready to go all out.  We ran the tour of classics, and did 1 7B+, 4 7B's, 3 7A+'s, and a handful of easier lines.  It was a long day of hiking too as we covered almost all of North Mountain.
W- Another good nights sleep and forecast for colder weather had me psyched to get out, but everyone else at the Hacienda was taking a rest day.... I warmed up a bit, then tried Free Willy-7C+ for a while, coming really close, but my left hand was too tired from the previous day.  Then headed around for more classics on North Mountain - 12 problems up to 7B. once through the classics list, I had another hour before I had to leave so I headed back to Free Willy and managed to fire it.  Then still had some time so I headed to Loaded with Power-7C+, and managed to link to the hold just below the lip before my left hand gave out again and that was the end of the day.   Headed back to the Hacienda, and flew to Denver
Th- Work in Denver
F- Headed up to Elkland in RMNP.  Did a 7B+ called dreamclimb, and figured out the moves on the 7C+ sit, then had a mild pulley rupture pulling onto the start hold.  Trip over and headed back to the airport :) 

Overall I really couldn't have asked for a better trip, with the exception of the pulley at the end. 

cheque

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Worked out beta first go, then 2nd go did in overlapping 1/2's. 3rd go fell just before the good holds.  Too wasted to keep trying.

The Red River Gorge climbing experience encapsulated in 3 sentences.  ;)

Great trip report 'quatch. Sounds like a good 'un.  :2thumbsup:

Sasquatch

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Worked out beta first go, then 2nd go did in overlapping 1/2's. 3rd go fell just before the good holds.  Too wasted to keep trying.

The Red River Gorge climbing experience encapsulated in 3 sentences.  ;)

Great trip report 'quatch. Sounds like a good 'un.  :2thumbsup:
Somehow I managed to only experience it once :) probably by trying things that were pretty easy for me.

It was a great trip, and overall I was pretty glad to check out the CHattanooga bouldering as I have relatives near there, and knowing how incredible The Shield looks/climbs was worth going down there.  It's now on my life list :)

kelvin

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Two weeks on the road climbing :)

First stop was the Red!  I'd never been so I was pretty excited.

Overall I really couldn't have asked for a better trip, with the exception of the pulley at the end.

Great trip report - I was actually excited to hear what you were going to do next. Amazing volume.

 

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